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09-08-2008 07:47 PM Cleaning and Powder coat
Now it's time to remove the buffing sludge from the cast parts of the wheels. Acetone works well to get some of it off but this part is going to take some elbow grease a stiff brush and some simple green or all purpose cleaner

DO NOT use wheel cleaner on the bare aluminum. it will dull the polished ribs already done.

Scrub scrub and scrub.

After that was done I really didn't want to clean this again so I took the next step. I applied clear powder coat (in this case a gloss clear ) to seal and protect. Clear powder will fill in the rough cast portion and make it easier to clean in the future.

After it was clean I put the wheel in an oven and preheated the AL for about 20 minutes at 375 degrees. To a surface temperature of about 200 degrees or so. This will bake out any solvents left in the AL and help with powder adhesion.

Bake the clear at 375 degrees for around 20 minutes to cure. Heating the clear past that will cause yellowing. But will give you a set of spares for drag radials :-)

The final product

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  [Entry #7]

09-08-2008 07:36 PM Polishing Progress
Here are some pictures after the

1) The greasless Compound
2) The Tripoli Compound
3) White Rouge

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  [Entry #6]

09-08-2008 07:34 PM Dealing with Road Rash
This set had some minor road rash on two of the wheels, We can take care of this during the polishing process.

The polishing process is done with a die grinder and a set of 4" buffing wheels, tapered goblet buffs and a set of mushroom buffs.

We're going to start with a greasless compund at 80 Grit and work through to 220 grit and 320 grit. I used a spiral sewn wheel on the lip of the wheel and a goblet buff on the ribs. When applying the greasless to the wheel let it sit for about 5-10 minutes to harden else it will come off when buffing.

Try to buff in perpendicular directions but it's hard on a long skinny part like the ribs.

For a stock appearance here you want to have a machine shop cut machine marks in the ribs and lip. I however wanted more bling in my wheels so I went to the next step

After that buff with Tripoli compound on a spiral sewn wheel for the lip and the goblet buff for the ribs. You want to get this to a pretty shiny state before moving on the the final step

The final step is a "coloring" compound on a loose section wheel. The loose section wheel is flexible enough to cover both ribs and lips.

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  [Entry #5]

09-08-2008 07:07 PM After Bead Blasting
After blasting with 80 grit glass beads. Since I do not have a blasting cabinet I made a support over an old oil drum to collect the blasting media for reuse with my pressure blaster.

The T-type wheels have polished lips and ribs bead blasting is going to profile the surface we can deal with this next.

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  [Entry #4]

09-08-2008 03:29 PM Before and after Soda Blasting
Unfortunately the soda isn't aggressive enough to remove the stains and dirt on these wheels. The backsides in particular had lots of tar and accumulated road grime. Since writhing this I have done less soiled wheels with the soda and it works fine.

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #3]

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