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Old 10-27-2016, 10:17 AM
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Leaks!!

Hey everyone,

Got some questions about leaks.

I have a 55 Chevy 210 that is in great condition, but it sat in a garage for almost 4 years without being run. Now that it?s back up and running, I?m having some leaks and drips.

First leak appears to be a small clumpy stain under that rear differential.

Second area has a couple blotches on the garage floor right in between the transmission (Tremec) and the orange oil drain pan. As you can see by the picture, the forward most stain is darker than the others and looks like it?s oil.

The last picture was taken from the front aspect of the car directly under the engine. There seems to be a couple small, clear-ish stains directly under the engine.

Can anyone please help me identify what these stains are from and what I should do to take care of them? Are they just seal and gaskets wearing out from sitting so long?

Thanks
Johnny
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Old 10-27-2016, 12:43 PM
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Leaks, or drips . . .

I'd call those drips, and from what you said, not surprising. Sitting around does nothing good to gaskets and seals. Tracking down exactly where the source of the drips are can be time consuming and frustrating. Just make sure that all likely places (diff covers, valve covers, etc) are tightened and retorqued to spec. Driving it regularly should also help.
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Old 10-27-2016, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillPac View Post
I'd call those drips, and from what you said, not surprising. Sitting around does nothing good to gaskets and seals. Tracking down exactly where the source of the drips are can be time consuming and frustrating. Just make sure that all likely places (diff covers, valve covers, etc) are tightened and retorqued to spec. Driving it regularly should also help.
Hey BillPac, thanks for the info. Although, I'm a little concerned about that drip in the second picture (the one between the oil pan and the transmission bell housing.


Could that be a rear main seal going out?
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Old 10-27-2016, 01:27 PM
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Rear main seal . . .

That would be a likely culprit from the location of the drip. Again, driving may help the problem; as the seal medium goes through several warm/cool cycles it may become pliable enough to seal better.
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Old 10-27-2016, 06:55 PM
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hcompton, thanks for the info, man.
I didn't think that maybe some of these numerous smaller spots might be caused by one larger drip thats blown down the length of the car.

I ran the car for a bit today. Only noticed one very slow drip between the oil drain case and the tranny bell housing...so, I'm thinking maybe a rear main seal...should I try some of that Lucas stop leak first??

I'll probably try and tighten down the bolts, because I found that diff fluid and some transmission fluid as well...
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Old 10-27-2016, 07:14 PM
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Awesome, man, thanks.

I'll give the bolts a tighten then check out the valve covers. I'm hoping its that or the oil pressure gauge line...way better than a rear main seal.
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Old 10-27-2016, 08:31 PM
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First rip off the tappet cover and scoop out the caked oil.

Remove the rockers if you are good with tightening them back down

If not simply pour gas down the valley's and clean up the heads.
If so pull the rockers, and dunk the push rods one at a time in a thing of gas before blowing air through the hole and reinstall.
Tighten everything down then install a felpro tappet cover gasket.

Pick the engine up with a cherry picker and drain the oil. Pull the fuel pump, oil filter adpter if you have one, and oil pan. Pull the water pump , balancer, and timing cover. Turn the engine over to Tdc before pulling the balancer.

Once the cover is off make sure your points on the timing are true making sure you did not jump a tooth. Your here you might as well. Check the chain for any play. Pull the front seal and rear seal installing new ones.

Replace the side inspection cover gasket. Those things love to leak out of weird spots. Check that the cover is true. They can easily warp. I have skipped over the 235. Never had one and don't know if they have distribution tabs to keep the bolts from warping the lifter inspection cover. If you have one or two good chance your missing the rest.

Take a rag to the oil pan, then another, reinstall the drain plug then dump some gas in the pan and leave it in there for 10 or so minutes. Then dump that into your lawn mower and wipe the pan down till you can see yourself.

Clean up any gasket material and install a felpro oil pan gasket making sure it stays in place while you torque it down. Install a new fuel pump gasket and oil filter adapter ring/gasket if equipped. Pull the dip stick tube and dab a bit of gasket maker around the side before stabbing it back in.

Pull any rubber lines and check them for cracks or soft spots. Replace if any are found.



2 hours of work and around $200 in gaskets. Another $30-40 in oil/filter/lines that you would have done anyway.

End result is a leak free engine that has a clean(er) oil in it.

I do this with any engine I pick up that has been sitting. I run the cheap oil for less then 1000 miles then change it and I'm good.

If your engine has been sitting without or with little coolant make sure to check the water pump. If it has multiple accessories attached to it, and has that caked rust looking powder on the inside you might as well replace it now. If it is easy to pull then you could try running it.


Now I did not cover head gasket, intake, exhaust, carb, or distributior gasket. Those gaskets tend to be good or bad and easy to notice. Oil wise I have covered every one except the distributior o ring. Degrease the block and wipe it down. Any leaks will be easy to find.



On the transmission. Drain it, replace the seals and bearings if you can do it yourself. If not drop it off somewhere that can do an inspection refreshing it. Possibly rebuilding it if it turns out to have an issue.


Clutch, and flywheel I inspect and run if good. The pilot bearing I always replace. Finding a clutch installation tool without buying the clutch can be a issue sometimes. But needing to replace the clutch or pilot bearing after only a few thousand miles really is a kick to the head.


This is more about cleaning up the oiling system then anything. But it will get rid of your leaks and keep you from running parts dry of oil.

A bit of block paint not only makes the engine look nicer but can make finding leaks easy.

Silver or white on that inspection cover and oil pan will show leaks right away. It is also a nice contrast to a blue, black, or red block.
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Old 10-31-2016, 08:59 AM
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Looks like a glisten on what I presume is the blue PCV valve? (Thanks, hcompton).

Anyone have experience with something like this?

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Old 11-02-2016, 10:53 AM
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It looks like that is a pcv cover and there is a regular pcv valve under that blue cap. You should just be able to pull it straight up and out and give it a shake if it rattles its probably working. No rattle or is sticky sounding then time for a new one for good carb cleaner spray down.
Did what you said! Pulled the cover off and gave it a good rattle. Looks like the moisture is creeping out of the ring seal in between the blue pcv cover and the valve cover.
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Old 11-04-2016, 04:09 PM
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Engines that have been sitting for that long will leak when run. Period. Just re-seal it, and go.
the seals, and gaskets, will dry out, and take set. Some will take shape and quit leaking, after being run.
Others will need to be replaced. The old cork gaskets, should be replaced. Traditionally, they are valve covers, and oil pan. Cork gaskets work OK untill they get dried out. Even "new" cork gaskets can get dried out to the point that they won't work, even while still in the un-opened package.
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