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Old 07-15-2014, 08:31 AM
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LED instrument panel lights??

I bought a 1954 Chev for the specific purpose of going to Back To The 50's in Mpls/StP last year. The vehicle was converted to 12V on most of the electrical. The original dash is in place and uses the original turn signal bulbs. I can barely see them when I drive and was wondering if anyone has replaced these bulbs with LED units that would put out more intense light so that I could see them in the daylight. I don't want to change out the dash and gauges as I am only keeping this car until my 32 is up and running again. Thanks for any help.

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Old 07-15-2014, 10:16 AM
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I am redoing my dash in a '54 Ford I used the blue LED's to match the interior they worked out good,here is the white ones that will fit your old sockets: 10 X12V LED 2835 SMD Instrument Panel BA9S Light Bulb 1895 Super White | eBay
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Old 07-15-2014, 10:28 AM
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Here is another source. LED Lights, Bulbs & LED Lighting Accessories - SUPER BRIGHT LEDS | Super Bright LEDs

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Old 07-15-2014, 03:06 PM
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never had issue with stuff from them...
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Old 07-15-2014, 04:54 PM
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I also use Super Bright LEDs...... be aware LEDs usually don't dim without a dimmer module..... some do....
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Old 07-15-2014, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
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I am redoing my dash in a '54 Ford I used the blue LED's to match the interior they worked out good,here is the white ones that will fit your old sockets: 10 X12V LED 2835 SMD Instrument Panel BA9S Light Bulb 1895 Super White | eBay
I looked at these and they are replacement for the 1895 bulbs. According to a list of bulbs for the 54 Chev they indicate that the dash bulbs are #51's. I don't believe that these would be the same units. I could be wrong though. Thanks for the help. By the way, I did write to Eiko and here is their response to my inquiry.


"Steve ,

As a rule you need to stay with the same base and glass size along with the same volts,, you can sometimes play around with the watts but not the volts ,they need to be the same. A #51 lamp is 7.5 volts, you will need to find a LED version with 7.5 volts and a G-3 glass for it to be wise to convert. We currently do not make a LED cross over for the #51 bulb.

Best wishes,

Linda"
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Old 07-15-2014, 09:57 PM
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never had issue with stuff from them...
I went to their site also. I am having a tough time getting a replacement for the #51 bulb in an LED unit. I will look again but when I went to their listing I was not able to find a cross-reference for the #51 to an LED.
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Old 07-16-2014, 03:35 AM
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LEDs can vary as much as 3 volts without any ill effects. In my experience anything over 3 volts and the LED will start to heat up, it will still work just fine but might heat up enough to deform plastic. I use 12 volt outdoor garden light LED bulbs with a 9v battery for emergency lighting works very well and lasts for 7 days being constantly on, hook it up to two 9v (18v) and it lasts for 3 days and super bright but it gets very hot.
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Old 07-16-2014, 11:23 AM
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Lionel

I'm guessing that when the '54 was converted to 12 volt the wrong voltage bulb was used. The socket is probably a mini-bayonet type and several different voltage bulbs will fit this socket.
For example: The Lionel engine uses an 18 volt headlight.

I like LED Lights, Bulbs & LED Lighting Accessories - SUPER BRIGHT LEDS | Super Bright LEDs because you can see the dimensions of anything they sell as well as the color etc. But it does take some time to find the correct product.

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Old 07-16-2014, 04:10 PM
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All automotive direct replacement LED bulbs do not need a resistor to work correctly, at least none that I know of.
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Old 07-16-2014, 07:45 PM
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Fully aware how the LED/resistor combo works. I only stated you do not have to "add" a resistor for a direct replacement bulb. If you wanted to build your own set up then I agree resistor are a must depending on voltage. Some of the newer LED bulbs and not polarity sensitive and voltage can vary by 20 volts. I have seen, and do not recommend, 40-50 ordinary radio shack LEDs wired in series and plugged into 110 household current and worked just fine, I didn't believe it until I looked inside the can..... no other circuitry except the LEDs
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Old 07-17-2014, 03:22 AM
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It's all good
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Old 07-17-2014, 10:17 AM
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All automotive direct replacement LED bulbs do not need a resistor to work correctly, at least none that I know of.
yup don't NEEd. but a lot of vehicles don't use the same bulb type in the whole interior lighting... many have gauge cluster bulbs that are not the same as the ones that light up the heater controls, the shifter detent, ashtrays among others and some like all the lights to be about the same brightness... and this requires either having the option of # of led's in the bulb, beam angle, and lumans put out.. sometimes those options don't cut it. and you have to add a resistor..
exp.. my daily uses 5 different bulbtypes in just the interior lights that turn on when you have the headlights on.. this doesnot include the interior lights that come on when you open the door, that's another 3 types..
some I've seen add resistors to the gauge lighting for all gauges but the speedo/tach, and resistors for the rest with the water temp and oil pressure lighting being brighter than the fuel level,clock,etc..
and looked nicely done.. you may not "need them but it's an option that can make the interior . some use details like this to take their vehicle to another level..
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Old 07-17-2014, 03:37 PM
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That might be a sight to see, hacking up a wiring harness to add resistors that are built in to the direct replacement bulbs. Not say'in you can't do it, I've never saw the need, with all the multitude of LED base bulbs with different lumens avail.

I have converted several cars to all LEDs and the only issue I've ever run into was too many LEDs, equaled to much resistance for the original circuit which resulted in too dim for my liking. I had to add another feed wire to split the resistance which ended up with brighter lights.

To each his own, I just don't se the need for additional resistors when using direct replacement bulbs.
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Old 07-17-2014, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EOD Guy View Post
That might be a sight to see, hacking up a wiring harness to add resistors that are built in to the direct replacement bulbs. Not say'in you can't do it, I've never saw the need, with all the multitude of LED base bulbs with different lumens avail.

I have converted several cars to all LEDs and the only issue I've ever run into was too many LEDs, equaled to much resistance for the original circuit which resulted in too dim for my liking. I had to add another feed wire to split the resistance which ended up with brighter lights.

To each his own, I just don't se the need for additional resistors when using direct replacement bulbs.
not everyone uses the oem gauge cluster gauges and/or wiring.. it's quite easy with autometer/etc..

haven't run into the to many leds.. yet.. have run into 40+y/o connections not giving full power to the feed wire..
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