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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2017, 04:51 AM
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One bite down and a million to go......

Right on!

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2017, 04:39 PM
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Fantastic progress Rip. Now, if it was going to show and needed to be swoopy, you could make it out of two pieces and shrink/stretch your curve into it. That is what I ran into with my tailpan.

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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2017, 04:42 PM
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Just in case you can't decipher what my picture is...................

I think you will really enjoy that part of the build. Full speed ahead!

John
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2017, 08:21 PM
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Yep one bite down 999 million to go..The next part is going to be a bit tricky. I think I will make it in two pieces and then weld together the two.

I am not comfortable with the bead roller tipping yet. I just seem to have a real problem getting the metal tipping started. of course I am working with a arm deficit but it just hasn't clicked yet. Any ideas as to use for a bottom die? Right now I have tried a 3/8 tipping die on the a round flat die and no easier. I tried a 3/8, a stepped offset tipping die. So far no breakthrough. still seems like black magic..

I need to get this down on the next patch I do because it will need quite a bit of work. I have watched all of Lazze videos on tipping and he makes it look so easy..
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Old 04-12-2017, 08:42 PM
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I am not sure what you mean by a 3/8 tipping die Rip. When you can, post a picture of the dies you are trying to use to tip.

Here is a picture of my home made tipping dies.

You can crank down some pressure on the dies and run it accross the line you want to tip without trying to bend the flange. That will make an indention and thin the metal along your bend line. On the next pass start your tipping process and don't be concerned if it takes multiple passes to form your flange.

Once you master it, you will like it. I know of no better way to tip a flange on a curved piece or on a line that is not straight.

John

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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2017, 04:30 AM
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Remember, the machine is not doing any bending, you are.

Lift firmly as you run it thru.

On the videos, you probably can't notice the upwards pressure being exerted.
Your dies really don't matter. Almost anything will work.

The top is important as it needs a flat face so you can lift the material up against it.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2017, 12:04 PM
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The dies I have available are shown in the enclosed picture below. The white sheet shows the dies in the box and the rest of the dies are stacked there on the surface.

The tipping dies I have used so far are numbers C,D,E, and the 3/8 die is letter G as shown and I am using Die I as the lower one.

I do have the soft rubber/plastic lower die and I was thinking of trying the knife edge die and the soft one in the bottom. Does it help if I have a small groove in the soft lower die like the one in Johns Picture?

If you look at all the dies check them out and tell me which ones you would use to tip a flange!
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2017, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rip VW View Post
The dies I have available are shown in the enclosed picture below. The white sheet shows the dies in the box and the rest of the dies are stacked there on the surface.

The tipping dies I have used so far are numbers C,D,E, and the 3/8 die is letter G as shown and I am using Die I as the lower one.

I do have the soft rubber/plastic lower die and I was thinking of trying the knife edge die and the soft one in the bottom. Does it help if I have a small groove in the soft lower die like the one in Johns Picture?

If you look at all the dies check them out and tell me which ones you would use to tip a flange!
The knife edged die is what you want to use. Even though I put the groove in my lower die (skateboard wheel) I see no need for it. It was an experiment that appears to me to have little or no effect.

John
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2017, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rip VW View Post
The dies I have available are shown in the enclosed picture below. The white sheet shows the dies in the box and the rest of the dies are stacked there on the surface.

The tipping dies I have used so far are numbers C,D,E, and the 3/8 die is letter G as shown and I am using Die I as the lower one.

I do have the soft rubber/plastic lower die and I was thinking of trying the knife edge die and the soft one in the bottom. Does it help if I have a small groove in the soft lower die like the one in Johns Picture?

If you look at all the dies check them out and tell me which ones you would use to tip a flange!
None in the pics.

X2, knife top and rubber lower.
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2017, 08:24 PM
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Tomorrow I am going to set that combo on the machine and see if I can destroy some test pieces. I need to practice using my left hand for everything just in case it is bad news about the shoulder next month. I had not tried the knife edge die or the soft lower die. I was afraid the knife edge would make a bend radius way to sharp. After I tipped that first piece I ran over it with my 3/8 die just to fatten up the radius.

I do hope this combo works.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 04-14-2017, 06:01 AM
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For a bigger radius, run the piece thru a few times in parallel lines about 1/16" apart. Then run them thru on each line while lifting.

Experimenting will get you there.
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Old 04-16-2017, 12:19 AM
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Well here I am again. The tipping is going better and I have been playing around with some bottom dies. I tried the flexible lower wheel. If I were working with say 20 to 22 Ga it would be nice. My 18 Ga just doesn't do it for me on that wheel.

I found the knife edge wheel worked the best as you guys said and solid flat wheel in the bottom. Here is where my variable speed came in handy as I dial it down to 25 percent it made it a lot easier to try and follow a straight line. I am getting better but keeping the line straight takes about 130 percent of my attention.

While playing around I found what I thought would be a cool lower die and found it made kind of a raised radius when you tipped a piece through there. I had a piece of material already cut ready to be rolled into shape. I decided to lay out this piece and see how it is going to react to my manipulations . That is when I screwed up big time. During the layout I flipped the lines from one side to the other side. Instead of making a piece for the side I was working on I wound up rolling everything in reverse. No problem I will work this piece for the other side and then do one for the correct side.

So it was an interesting learning curve. but I roughed out a start to the repair panel. I stretched and rolled and got a rough piece. I made a couple of first time screw ups but it was a nice exercise determining just what had to be done. I also learned that rolled bend took up too much material and left me a little short of where I wanted to be.

So I have the procedure and am going to practice a bit more and start a final version for the 2 sides remembering there is a right and left. I am overrun with grandkids tomorrow so I will be on it on Monday.

BTW I will build the outside edge seperately then weld them together.

Here are a couple of shots of practice on the part. Good start just got to pay attention and use care.
Photos are as follows:

1. Start of layout
2. Some progress
3. Some more progress
4. Working the front curve
5. Roughly roughed shows how short it ended up.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2017, 06:42 AM
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It looks like a bead on the corner.
That's the wrong die on the bottom. As I mentioned, the die does NOT do the bending for you. It's all you and how you lift as it rolls thru.
A bigger radius consumes less material, not more.

Try it again with the soft bottom and really crank harder upwards as it rolls thru.

I made a V'd bottom for mine at first which was doing what you have there.
I ended up not using it again.
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2017, 09:03 AM
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I am lower than a beginner when fabricating panels from flat sheet but 1 thing I DID learn is, I cut the shape bigger than I think I need and start forming. If it's a little oversize once I have the shape I'm aiming for, I can trim it down. For me, it's impossible to guess/measure/hope that I get the size exactly right before shaping.
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2017, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
I am lower than a beginner when fabricating panels from flat sheet but 1 thing I DID learn is, I cut the shape bigger than I think I need and start forming. If it's a little oversize once I have the shape I'm aiming for, I can trim it down. For me, it's impossible to guess/measure/hope that I get the size exactly right before shaping.
I am hardly a fabber, definitely a noob at that. You are sure right about cutting large and sneaking up on the perfect trim line though. Big gaps suck. Using posterboard to make the part first has shaved off a lot of time for me in that department, for small patches mainly but also on larger pieces with curves that might involve some pie cuts and tape.
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