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Old 05-15-2019, 01:56 PM
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LOOOOONG rod 327

It's been a while fellas.

Went from dirt track stuff to being married, now unmarried and back at it!

Now we are into boats.

I have a 1962 Rayson Craft Vdrive prop boat that is getting a 1962 327.

Want reliability and around 350 horse, flat bottom 16' boat doesnt need crazy power.

I have URSS sprint car heads, and a cam picked out. Going to be right at 10.5:1 through a torker 2 and 650 Holley.

Going with a factory forged crank.

My freaky question...

With the price of 327 pistons, and wanting to upgrade the rods I've been looking at going to a longer rod.

6" rod 327 pistons are pricey.

So here we go!

With a piston for a 6" 383, 1.125 compressed height, and a 6.25 rod that should give me an assembled height of 7.375"

Factory 327 pistons, 5.7 rods give an assembled height of 7.371"

6" rod and 327 pistons give an assembled height of 7.385"

So my 383 long rod combo falls right in between.

So, why wont this work? Am I missing something?!

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Old 05-15-2019, 02:48 PM
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You're not missing anything, that is just a .010" difference in compression height on the piston basically, .

SBC pistons are typically made so that with stroke, rod length, and piston compression height added together they will fall into a range of 9.000 to 9.015", while the block blueprint height spec is listed as 9.025".

The slightly shorter the piston/rod/stroke combo is compared to block deck height is left in there so you can surface the block and still be at or below flush with the deck(zero deck).

Your idea is perfect, no sense paying an expensive premium just to have the numbers "327" long rod" in the picture or on the box, the use of the correct compression height 383 listed piston with an even longer rod is a smart move.

You have picked just about the absolute worst intake manifold on the planet however....why hamstring those nice heads and what appears is going to be a great bottom end with such a crummy low flowing intake manifold??
You'll likely find the Torker manifold face won't even cover the intake ports on the head, as it won't even cover L98 or LT1 factory heads.

Performer RPM, Weiand Stealth or Speed Warrior, or any of the numerous clones available would all be better than that awful Torker.
The only reason the Torker was even developed is the bean counters at Edelbrock wanted a single plane manifold low enough to fit under the stock hood on 70-81 Camaro and '68-82 Corvette, with no care to how it really performed...they thought they were losing a big portion of potential market. One of the lead Engineers at Edelbrock at the time has admitted online how bad it was and how it was marketing driven down their throats.
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Old 05-15-2019, 02:54 PM
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So I haven't missed anything, and it's possible!

A 6.25 rod and 383 piston is actually about 70 bucks cheaper than a 327 piston and upgraded rods. So it just makes sense if it works!

I looked at the torker for a single plane that wont kill low end torque, but if its junk then its junk!

Wanted a high rise single plane for the 'look' since I cant find a good tunnel ram with 450 or 390cfm carbs used.

Victor jr maybe?
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Old 05-15-2019, 02:59 PM
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And in my circle track days we used to use 6" rods to help fight detonation with the crummy heads we had to use.

With a 1.9 rod ratio, how much compression could this withstand on 91 octane?
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Old 05-15-2019, 03:09 PM
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I have a combo with the same setup. A set of Crower 6.25" with a standard 383 piston. Decked to 9.010 for a zero deck. Works great. Just be ready because it will want to spin to the moon, and it will need to inorder to make some power.

I know boat motors and street motors are like apples and oranges due to drives and such. But you'll want this to be 'geared' to be running 4500+ if maximum output is your goal. It seems, from reading, that most boat setups seem to not exceed 5000-5500 rpm window. Your 6.25" rod 327 will not be happy nor powerful down there.

Perhaps that's a prop ordeal/design for more rpm's
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Old 05-15-2019, 03:20 PM
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Aluminum head, just 327-331" engine, and I'm guessing river or lake fed cooling?? 11:1 should not be a problem, 10.75:1 for sure if you want some safety margin.

Vic Jr is a good pick, probably even better would be a Weiand Team G.
The best would be a Holley Strip Dominator if all three are going to be used as cast. The Strip Doms are know for the best low end torque while still giving stout top end to match the others. Team G has slightly smaller runner than the other two, may be better on your smaller engine, I can't say either way as I don't play with anything smaller than 383" any more.

You don't want a tunnel ran with 390 or 450 carbs anyway, both those carb sizes are junk on a tunnel ram....those are looky-loo carb/tunnel ram set-ups for the street rod cruiser bling crowd....they certainly DON'T make good power, that's for sure.
Nothing smaller than two 500cfm Edelbrocks/AFB's or two 585/600 cfm Holleys is worth using on a Tunnel Ram.
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Old 05-15-2019, 03:24 PM
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This is an iron head. World brand 58 cc chamber.

331 ci. 220-230 degree duration cam with lake water cooling.

Only thing holding the engine back will be the water cooled manifolds, but might go to 180 degree headers for maximum piss off drunk lake people factor.
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Old 05-15-2019, 03:46 PM
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Ok, iron head.
I was thinking aluminum when you posted URSS, since they are aligned with RaceSaver now I figured it was the aluminum Sprint Spec head.

With attention paid to tight quench(gasket and block deck height set for piston-to- head clearance of .035-.045") my thought is 10.75:1 might be pushing it, 10.4-10.5:1 ought to be safe with a small chamber iron head.

Flat top, 2 relief piston and .040" piston to head with a 4.100" bore gasket gets you right on 10.45:1 compression.

Good piston at a great price, D.S.S. Pistons "E" series, 6"rod 383 piston 1.125" height.
https://shop.dssracing.com/8715_p/8715.htm
I've used DSS before, nice piston about equal to Wiseco, or maybe KB/ICON, better than TRW/Speed-Pro.
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Old 05-15-2019, 03:49 PM
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Yeah these are the old head.

Those racesavers are just terrible.

A guy down the street build a bunch of 305 engines for some serious front runners, and they're just disgusted with the new head.
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Old 05-15-2019, 04:03 PM
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Yeah, I was just assuming, I've never seen the RaceSaver head. I just figured it to be something like the ASCS spec head, but must be it really isn't.

Your World's have the 2.02" valve, or the 1.94" valve?? Any port work been done??

They can really benefit from a simple bowl blend since you don't have rules preventing it....probably a 40HP pick-up right there for 20 minutes per valve bowl time spent grinding and blending...the guide bosses in the bowl are really FAT.
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Old 05-15-2019, 04:09 PM
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These are as they left world, I think 1.94 intake to fit the 305 bore.

They're so fat. Im going to clean up the bowls on them before they go on.

305 guy got them spotless before I bought them, so I almost hate to. But power is power
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Old 05-16-2019, 08:40 AM
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A long rod with a long stroke makes sense, like 6" or longer rods in a 383 or 400. But I have read in numerous articles that a 5.7" rod with 3.25" stroke has the ideal rod/stroke ratio of 1.75:1 Why mess with that?

Yeah, forget about that Torker II. Or use it as an anchor.
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Old 05-16-2019, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 55_327 View Post
A long rod with a long stroke makes sense, like 6" or longer rods in a 383 or 400. But I have read in numerous articles that a 5.7" rod with 3.25" stroke has the ideal rod/stroke ratio of 1.75:1 Why mess with that?

Yeah, forget about that Torker II. Or use it as an anchor.
Ican't say I'm familiar with an 'ideal' rod to stroke ratio - each motor has some characteristics depending on what is in it. My concern with this setup in a boat is that this want to spin alot of rpm's and I'm not familiar with boats that like that. But also, I'm not familiar with boat motors in genral, so my input my be jibberish anyway.
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Old 05-16-2019, 12:12 PM
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is the 327 stuff you have already to work with or what?
350/383 CI is gonna be the same money and easier on the valve train. Even with the soda straw heads.
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Old 05-16-2019, 02:57 PM
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FWIW the v-drive can be geared for the RPM you want to turn, it's fairly easy to change the gears.
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