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Old 07-11-2017, 12:14 AM
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Low Spot in Filler - Need to Fix, Only One Left!

Howdy all,

I'm currently working on a '67 Dodge Dart. At one point in its life, the car took a hit to its left rear quarter panel and was repaired by a collision shop.

I've since taken the panel back to bare metal, checked everything and I'm now doing my first coat of body filler.

I'm almost done with the filler but I haven't been able to get rid of this lone low spot that's right in front of the collision damage.

It's the only low spot I have.



The photos were taken after I added more filler due to the low spot and sanded with 80 grit.

Here's a top-down view of the contour with the low spot:



I'm using a 8" mudhog for the initial cut of the filler (just to take down the glaze) and then I'm blocking with Durablocks AF4401 and AF4405.

I'm using Rage Gold.

What else should I attempt? A longer block? I'll try even lighter pressure next time in case I happen to be pushing down too far and 'warping' the panel as I sand, although that might not be the case.

I plan on spraying Slicksand on top after I'm done with the filler coat to block and work on my body lines.

Thanks!

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Old 07-11-2017, 12:15 AM
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The pic was broken for some reason and can't edit my post?
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Old 07-11-2017, 12:18 AM
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Read this info a few times, print it out and put it next to where you sit and relax (the toilet? ) and read it a few times, it's all there. https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/basi...ler-44006.html

Brian
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Old 07-11-2017, 12:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Read this info a few times, print it out and put it next to where you sit and relax (the toilet? ) and read it a few times, it's all there. https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/basi...ler-44006.html

Brian
LOL, I've read that probably 15 times at least. That's what got me this far.

Out of as wide of an area I'm working on, it's the only low spot I have. It's a little bit too low for Dolphin Glaze or Slicksand.

I get a feeling there's one variable or several I'm missing that contributing to the problem.

The last time I tried to fill it, I applied filler to a large area containing the low spot, which is the sanded filler in the photo.
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Old 07-11-2017, 07:45 AM
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Not being able to see more of the panel or run my hand across it, hard to say for sure but I suspect that it is high rearward of the pond shown. Like it might need to taper off more. Referencing the other side may help. I suggest trying something more rigid than a Durablock. They have their purpose but are capable of lying about what is straight due to their flexibility. Bend one and see if it goes back flat. I think you may find that they don't. Good luck with finishing up, looks like you are doing fine.
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Old 07-13-2017, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Not being able to see more of the panel or run my hand across it, hard to say for sure but I suspect that it is high rearward of the pond shown. Like it might need to taper off more. Referencing the other side may help. I suggest trying something more rigid than a Durablock. They have their purpose but are capable of lying about what is straight due to their flexibility. Bend one and see if it goes back flat. I think you may find that they don't. Good luck with finishing up, looks like you are doing fine.
I was actually thinking the same thing when I was feeling it. I do think it's high at the corner of the quarter.

I have a flat 11" sanding board I'll try. I'm also going to pick up some Rage Ultra and Ultra Xtra so I'll have more time to work the filler before it cures.

Thanks!
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Old 07-13-2017, 11:11 PM
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I am thinking the same thing, that you need to block the filler down more. I is very unlikely that if it was sanded down enough you wouldn't be seeing some metal coming there here and there.

Your filler should be literally transparent along the edges as it feathers out. Yours is laying on top so thick it looks like a big tire patch glued to the metal. It really needs to be transparent along the edge.

Brian
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Old 07-13-2017, 11:28 PM
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I just swiped this photo off the net, it's not mine. But it shows you how filler should look with transparent spots and along the edges. I can't believe that I couldn't find a better example, I will have to make some. Geeez, in googling this I can't believe the HORRIBLE examples out there. One of the worse is a 3M video, HOLY CRAP what garbage!

Anyway, you need to thin your filler out, CUT it flat with good quality, sharp, new paper.

Brian

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Old 07-14-2017, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pistonspeed View Post
Howdy all,

I'm currently working on a '67 Dodge Dart. At one point in its life, the car took a hit to its left rear quarter panel and was repaired by a collision shop.

I've since taken the panel back to bare metal, checked everything and I'm now doing my first coat of body filler.

I'm almost done with the filler but I haven't been able to get rid of this lone low spot that's right in front of the collision damage.

It's the only low spot I have.



The photos were taken after I added more filler due to the low spot and sanded with 80 grit.

Here's a top-down view of the contour with the low spot:



I'm using a 8" mudhog for the initial cut of the filler (just to take down the glaze) and then I'm blocking with Durablocks AF4401 and AF4405.

I'm using Rage Gold.

What else should I attempt? A longer block? I'll try even lighter pressure next time in case I happen to be pushing down too far and 'warping' the panel as I sand, although that might not be the case.

I plan on spraying Slicksand on top after I'm done with the filler coat to block and work on my body lines.

Thanks!
try taking a long board 12-15 in with 180 and sand in a crosshatch pattern,,draw some imaginary Xs on the panel and go 6-8 in PAST the edge of the filler with the curved panel on the dodge Never sand front to back or top to bottom always in an X pattern with the 180 you can clearly see tho low spots and when you apply more filler go out past the low spot a few inches,then repeat sanding,,if some low spots remain you have High spots around the edge and will have to be repaited always go past the edge of past filler so you can feather the edge,,most people stop to early,,on filling and sandind the edge
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Old 07-15-2017, 01:38 AM
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possible metal iissue

Is this spot soft or possibly an oil can issue? if you press on it is it springy? It is in an area that you could bump it up from the back side to avoid more plastic filler.
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Old 07-15-2017, 10:56 AM
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looks like it's not properly metal worked. You may have brows there too. It takes experience to get good at body work. Use guide coat in that area. Double check your block pressures, contour of panel, and what the guide coat is telling you . There's ways to do that in metal too. That spot looks big being there's two coats directly over that area. The less metal work done the more headache it's going to be in filler. Filler work is not something you can just read a tutorial and be good at. It's not like unbolting a fender or something. It takes time, a feel, and some never are able to get good at it. I have quota... No more than two thin swipes of filler. Occasionally it will be three but the point is, if I have to keep swiping it than the metal work isn't complete. The best way to get better at filler is getting better at metal.
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Old 07-17-2017, 01:09 AM
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wisdom

The best way to get better at filler is getting better at metal.
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The only difference between master and student is the number of failures each has experienced. This is a paraphrase of a quote that was told to me.

Another was "it only takes two things to make you successful building cars, "Always do your best work, and always under promise and over deliver. If you do this you will be successful, Not rich, but successful".
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Old 07-24-2017, 08:36 PM
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UPDATE: I got the panel repaired and flat. It's ready for Featherfill as a final coat.

There was a low spot as shown, but idrivejunk had it spot on. There was definitely a high spot exacerbating the low spot.

Here's what I did, which I hope will be useful to someone starting out:

1. I watched a bunch of YouTube videos to make sure my blocking technique was correct, i.e. using as long of boards as possible, keeping flat and horizontal with car while making 45 degree cuts, etc.

I made sure not to use the sanding block as an eraser. Even in some of the videos I see improper technique with people "digging into" guide coat to take out a low spot... and while the dry coat is removed, they've actually made the low spot even larger.

2. I decided to use the Durablocks that I have. I made sure they were trued up by running them over a piece of 80 grit sandpaper I placed on a perfectly flat table (did the same with my bondo spreaders.) I also had Mirka dry guide coat.

3. I picked up some Rage Ultra Xtra to mix with my Rage Ultra so I would have more time to work the filler on the panel. Even in the shade my filler was setting up too quick. Getting the 3M filler mixing paper also helped as well as keeping the filler flat on the mixing board after mixing (it hardens quicker when it's kept in a blob.)

Minor thing, but if I was reusing a spreader, I always checked to make sure it was completely clean and wasn't too worn out on the bottom. I also make sure the sandpaper was perfectly flat on the board with no bumps from previous adhesive.

4. I blocked out the aforementioned panel before putting more filler on the repair area, then sanded flat with 17" and 11" Durablocks and 80, 120 then 180 grit paper. I used the 17" as much as I could to have the widest area flattened at the same time.

5. The low spots I had, I put filler in those spots only, then with the 5.25" Durablock, I blocked those while making sure I didn't cut down on the surrounding, flat filler too much. That way I "lowered" the elevation of the new filler to the level of the old filler.

6. At that point, all I had left was smaller low spots and lines from the bondo spreader. Those I filled with Dolphin Glaze with the same procedure as above, although I found the tube Durablock useful at times with the smaller areas.

7. Finally, after blocking with 220 on the panel (I was running out of 180), I only had mainly a handful of sand scratches. Looks ready for Featherfill.

I'm not a huge fan of Rage Ultra; I find it way too runny. But I do like the extended work time of Ultra Xtra.

Thanks for the help, and I hope my experiences prove useful to someone else. It came out WAY better than I was expecting for a fill coat before the final coat of filler (in this case, Featherfill.)
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