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Old 02-08-2020, 05:29 PM
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LS in a '95 F250, plausable?

I have a pretty solid 1995 F250 and access to enough parts to make it a really nice 1995 F250. But the 302 has a broken manifold and the timing has jumped. Have not put a light on it but I can tell, timing is all over the place. Still runs/ drives fine every day but not sure it'll pull my boat.

My old boss has a '99-2000 something Chevy 2500 with a broken frame but the motor Pretty sure it's a 6.0L/4L80E.. Is it a logical swap to make? There is a company that does bellhousing adapters for $650.

Seems 210hp- 300hp could be a cheap upgrade. I like the square body Ford and it's a 5spd.

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Old 02-08-2020, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167 View Post
My old boss has a '99-2000 something Chevy 2500 with a broken frame but the motor Pretty sure it's a 6.0L/4L80E..
Unless I'm mistaken, there's a real good chance that the motor in the Chevy is a Gen I 350 (L31). Chevy used 'em from 1996 to 2002 in trucks and vans.
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Old 02-08-2020, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
Unless I'm mistaken, there's a real good chance that the motor in the Chevy is a Gen I 350 (L31). Chevy used 'em from 1996 to 2002 in trucks and vans.
It's a GMT 800 truck, so LS powered. It might be a 1500 and either a 4.8/5.3, I can't remember. he didn't look at the frame before buying it from the auction. It might be a later truck as well. I thought it was a 2500 but it might not be.
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Old 02-08-2020, 06:42 PM
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Only way to tell is check the VIN number. If I were making the swap I would use the 4L80E as well so no adapter necessary. The donor truck can also provide the wire harness and ECU. It's early LS series so the throttle is cable operated, no need to get the pedal from the donor. You can find wire diagrams on line to pick out the unwanted engine control wires. Motor mounts are no real problem, again diagrams can be found on line. Biggest problem you will have the the fuel system but, again, search the web and you will find solutions. One last thing, if you are looking for 300 HP and it's a 6.0 several plugs must have fallen out!
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Old 02-08-2020, 06:50 PM
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Stroke the 302 . It will be quicker and cheaper.

Anyway, who wants a chevy powered ford.......ROFLMAO
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Old 02-08-2020, 06:54 PM
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Look here https://southernperformancesystems.c...k-casting.html

I have ,on some LS engines seen the casting number on the back of the block on the passenger side of the engine.This article shows them to be on the drivers side (just unde the top of the deck )
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Old 02-08-2020, 07:33 PM
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I thought about working with the 302 and getting a crate stroker, but I'd have to get Mustang stuff to make it work, probably end up going carburator ect.. and the 351W from that era, is a 15hp and a little bit of torque upgrade.

I should probably just throw a new timing chain kit on it, along with a new water pump and hoses and call it a day probably.. But then it needs long tube headers as I might as well replace the split manifold with headers
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Old 02-08-2020, 08:17 PM
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If I didn't have to SMOG this, I'd go with the KISS principle and keep it Ford. The GM Gen III is a giant pain to swap into pre GenIII GM platforms and ties you to a GM computer or aftermarket for ignition unless you buy the pretty expensive adapter to put a distributor drive on it.

Obviuosly the least xpensive rout is rebuild the 302. My personal is the 302 like the Chevy 305 ain't much of a truck motor. Gvng the Ford guys their due, before they jump all over me, is I wouldn't hestate to put a 302 in a Mustang but I sure wouldn't consider putting a 305 in a Camaro, but its mnimally OK in a pickup.

So I'd either plan a stroker rebuild on the 302 to stretch it to 347, or shop for a decent 351W or hunt for a 400 to build. Admittedly 400's are harder to get right but when you do they are 'gangbusters'. Cubic inches produces truck needing torque without resulting to havng to wind the crap out of it to substitute top end horsepower for work-a-day torque, that's life. You can play around the dges by buildng a smaller engine with a long stroke as the Chevy 305. This is the Harley engine plan which makes for a great laid back crusier, but inspite of their big inches and big power, you can't race them against the European and Japanese high winders that would kill your butt tryng to do a day in the saddle.

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Old 02-09-2020, 05:00 AM
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Well, I also want a little fuel economy as I will be towing the boat 300 miles ( both ways ) to the lakes a few times this summer. It was getting 12 mpg which is good enough. The engine has 118k miles. A timing chain and a water pump will probably fix it up fine.

And I don't have to smog this
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Old 02-09-2020, 08:36 AM
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Your going to need to go into this thinking about the small things.

Your curent fuel pump is not up to the task so lets say a new pump and lines cost you $300.
Your exhaust will not line up perfectly so lets say another $50 in material.
Your going to need to flash the ecm so lets say $200 to have that done locally.
Your going to need to weld engine mounts in so lets say another $100.


I would swap in a nv3500. Lots of people have went this way(I will when my 94 tbi goes) and it makes it a bolt in deal. The following will work with a nv3500.
Your going to need a Sachs NFW1050 which will work with a old flywheel bolt pattern. Your also going to need a extended pilot bushing. This makes everything bolt up for around $250.

With a zf5 we are in untested waters. It is going to be close with the nv3500 stuff. But you need to figure $650 for that adapter and another $100 figuring out the rest.




We are up to $1350 and your going to want to do some gaskets while the engine is out kicking that total up to $1500.


While I like the LS and am not a fan of the 94/95 trucks drive train (mostly due to AOD) at $1500 your half way into a full rebuild of the existing engine.

It makes more sense to just rebuild the old girl working with the constraints of the current efi system or going carb.
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Old 02-09-2020, 09:15 AM
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You'd prolly spend as much or more getting the electronics to communicate as for the hard parts. Keeping the engine & trans along with the ECM and wiring harness will get it running, but then there's the Ford dash and body to consider...

Russ
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Old 02-12-2020, 05:52 PM
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You can make anything fit, but at what cost. All the truck work wont leave much time for boating.
Fix it back to stock. If you can find one , an explorer of about that year with a 302 will have factory tube headers on it . They should fit just fine.
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Old 02-12-2020, 10:32 PM
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The LS in the F250 is plausible if you have more time than money.
You are also dealing with transmission differences and want or need an adaptor.
I personally, would keep the LS for another project and either rebuilt that 302 or search online for another wreck for the drivetrain. It is easy to find another 302 or 351 in a low mile truck, van, car, or station wagon. I got a 1991 Crown Vic Station Wagon for $300 with only 40K miles on it a few years back. I saw it in the yard of a random house I drove by on the way to work.
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Old 02-15-2020, 08:40 PM
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I have a line on a 2007 GMC 2500 HD Classic with 6.0L. quad cab, short box 4x4 coming up in a govt auction. It might go cheap enough I take a risk.

But if not, I'll just get cheap Ebay long tube headers, a new timing set and a water pump for the 302 and stuff them in when I have time
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Old 02-16-2020, 05:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S10xGN View Post
You'd prolly spend as much or more getting the electronics to communicate as for the hard parts. Keeping the engine & trans along with the ECM and wiring harness will get it running, but then there's the Ford dash and body to consider...

Russ
If he leaves the engine stock he can run it on a engine stand once the vats are removed. Like 4 wires if using the factory harness.

He has a manual so he is good transmission wise.

A gauge is a gauge. Oil, coolant, tach and amps will all work. Lights and switches on the dash should all work the same once a bit of wiring running to the old ford ecm is cleaned up.

The speedometer runs through the ecm. Or from the trans to the cluster to the ecm and back to the cluster). The gauge has like 700 calibration settings on that stepper for tire/gear adjustment.

You will need to have a sit down or email someone that rebuilds these units to establish a base that then can be controlled via gps. Unless you find one already done this way as a kit for switching to carb or standalone fuel injection. Or go aftermarket with the same sweep dimensions pulling off the aftermarket face and fitting the orgional ford face over it. Something that someone who rebuilds these can do if it sounds to complicated.
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