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Old 09-17-2019, 04:58 PM
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LT1 in a 65 C10

Hello All,

I have installed a 94 LT1 out of a Buick Roadmax in my son's 65 C10.
The factory accessory brackets won't clear the frame rail on the passenger side (AC). I removed AC and put engine in.

I have checked around for brackets and the cost is prohibitive. Is anyone aware of an inexpensive fix? Preferably using factory power steering, alternator and balancer.

I have read that neither SBC and LS accessory brackets will work. Please help, trying to get my son on the road.

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Old 09-17-2019, 08:26 PM
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Alan Grove has about the cheapest high mounts for $315. Only other alternative is to make your own by taking several aftermarket mount designs and build something out of steel.
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Old 09-17-2019, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrodcommuter View Post
Hello All,

I have installed a 94 LT1 out of a Buick Roadmax in my son's 65 C10.
The factory accessory brackets won't clear the frame rail on the passenger side (AC). I removed AC and put engine in.

I have checked around for brackets and the cost is prohibitive. Is anyone aware of an inexpensive fix? Preferably using factory power steering, alternator and balancer.

I have read that neither SBC and LS accessory brackets will work. Please help, trying to get my son on the road.
Check with a local fab shop, maybe walk into the work bay with a case of beer and explain your predicament.
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Old 09-18-2019, 03:37 AM
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How bad is the foul? I have a friend who put an LT1 in an S-10 pickup. He used all factory brackets, including the A/C, but he did have to put a small notch in the upper/inside corner of the frame for clearance. Maybe a small notch with a gusset to make up for the lost material will get you where you need to be? Pics would help. Do you have the core support removed?
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Old 09-19-2019, 09:21 AM
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The problem w/ LT1 motors is the waterpump driving off the cam makes a barrier down the middle of the motor, and then all the belt-driven accessories have to be either off to one side (drv side on Corvettes), or the other (pass side everything else). That's why the wacky electric drive A.I.R. pumps then, which fit only in the space left opposite the rest and can't be reached with a belt (in essence the pump is being driven off the alternator then).

Since you're probably not likely to come up with a tighter package than the factory did without some real work, the two first solutions that come to mind are re-engineering the crossmember keeping in mind it needs it's strength, or doing something like elimination the PS pump in favor of electric power steering ($) which you've already said you don't want to do, or no power steering, then there may be room to move the AC compressor with custom bracketry.

My choice would be the crossmember mods, cutting 'til things clear, then building back up with reconfigured structure as necessary such as done with the S-10 mentioned prior.

One reason among a few others why LT1 swaps never really took off even though they should be such an easy fit for anything which originally had a Gen 1 small-block. With either Gen 1's or LS motors the front accessories can go wherever you can fit them, on both sides.
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Old 09-19-2019, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrodcommuter View Post
The factory accessory brackets won't clear the frame rail on the passenger side.
That's because you're not thinking out of the box. Buy some steel tube that most closely resembles the stock frame rail at the point of interference and weld it onto the stock frame rail, building it out and around the obstructing part of the accessory bracket(s). Then, use your cutting torch to cut off the part of the stock frame rail that is offending you. Simple. Cheap. Bulletproof.....
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Old 09-21-2019, 12:34 PM
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I have done an inverted c notch to gain clearence.

Trip down to your local scrap yard, $20, a welder capable of 1/4 steel, a bit of skill with the welder, and some paint is all you need.

The below methoud(inverted) works great. Just check for clearence below where your notching so you dont run into like a steering linkage or other issue with the notch.
http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/c-notch.html
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