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Old 11-03-2019, 07:54 PM
55 Tony's Avatar
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Manual 4L80 (E)

Does anyone have a completely manual valve body 4L80? How do you like it? (especially if you are used to automatic) I would probably hook up something like a push button to manually turn on the locking convertor and have it unlock the relay with a touch of the brake pedal. I would be doing the full manual valve body mostly for the lower cost of the setup and simpler installation.



Does the factory trans lock up in lower gears and does it shift while locked?


Since I think I've had my little fun at the race track I'm wanting to take out the 4.10 gears and re-installing the 3.36's, but if I were to go to overdrive I don't think I'd need to. (I figured out the numbers once before) Or maybe choose a gear in between the two and the 4L80? Tires are about 28"



My other dilemma cost wise would be the speedometer. I will be keeping my mechanical speedometer. I think I saw a mechanical kit but it was pricey.

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Old 11-04-2019, 01:38 PM
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Tony; you can shift the 4L80e manually with an external controller... no need to open up the trans and no computer required.
Btw I make them, pm me if interested.
You will have full manual control of each gear just like a full maual valve body. The shift pattern remains as a forward pattern. Whatever gear you select , that is the gear it will function in. Trans will have engine braking when downshifting. The torque converter is locked with switch or I offer an auto lockup in OD. I also can add a launch feature kinda like a transbrake . Trans will function with full line pressure ; shifts will be firmer but under normal driving quite tame.
In my car wtih 3.70 gears, 27" tires, 55 mph at just under 2000 rpm.
The speedo conversion is pricey. Some people use an old cell phone with a gps speed app. Summit has some electronic retro style speedo's that are much less than the cable adapter.
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Old 11-04-2019, 07:35 PM
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I suppose I could leave the th400 in and install 3.08 gears?


The cell phone speedometer isn't any good, I like all the original gauges to work. Cell phones don't look Hot Rod at all.
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Old 11-04-2019, 10:11 PM
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I hear ya on the cell phone speedo; I'm using my tach as a "speedo".
Imay go with something like this in the future: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Marshall-C2...1&isGTR=1#shId
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Old 11-05-2019, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 55 Tony View Post
I suppose I could leave the th400 in and install 3.08 gears?
3.42 to 3.55 has always knocked the rpm down enough in my book to go 75 without concern without overdrive.

Of course if I have a engine I know can handle it I will take the same non stop 3 hour freeway drive with 4.56 gearing.

I will give up top speed of 75+ for better 20-60 mph acceleration every day of the week. Not having overdrive is my way of controlling my speed and not looking down at a speedometer reading 95 after coming down an on ramp.

If we are honest 60mph is about where most rides become really unsafe. While going 90 is fun from time to time. If you hit something stationary at that speed it is going to screw up your weekend. If you hit something going the other direction you probably dont need to worry about the weekend.

I have had numerous hot dogging incidents costing me around 30 rides over the years. None of those were above 60mph.

Top speed like a peak horsepower number is pointless. Having your ride setup to take advantage of the gearing and horsepower for your situation is what really makes for a fun ride. With most engines if you gear it to run around 2200-2500 at 60mph the thing will have good acceleration and ok fuel economy.

I stopped caring about fuel economy years ago. If you want your ride to get 30mph buy a (driver) something built to get 35mph and then have fun with your 8mpg ride on the weekends.

Cadilliac with the 500ci engines had horrible acceleration due to the 2.xx gearing. You take the same car and put 4.xx gearing in the rear and you have a much funner ride with a freeway mileage drop in the 30-40% range.

Most older rides or flat window/grill hotrods really suffer in the aerodynamic department above 60. Going 70 vs going 80 is noticable if your not near your peak hp/torque when at those speeds.


Manual valve bodies are fun for about a month. Then you either love them or regret installing it.
I like the feel of a clutch. I am mean to my rides. A under $150 clutch last 10-12k in a under 400hp ride. But you pull the engine and slap another in and your good. Maybe you eventually need to do synchros and bearings. But that is about it and the thing will get you home even if you need to skip a gear or two.
With a manual valvebody you need that thing built to handle a higher level of abuse. Especially with downshifting.
It can be done of course. But, if you want to be mean with it your looking at tearing into it.
Frankly for the cost of a manual valvebody kit and floor shifter. Your almost in the same territory of a stand alone transmission controller.

MicroSquirt comes to mind right off and it allows for you to do a few things like programing the up and down shift points so your not running 4k when you down shift into 2nd.
The diyautotune forums cover the microsquirt standalone install in detail. This allows you to have a spare(good) junkyard transmission that needs no modifications making it a bolt it up, plug it in, and go weekend thing.
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