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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2019, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fang16 View Post
Here's a paper method I've used on a couple of my cars. If you get within 10% you have done it right.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=KUjIm1jzU4U
Thanks for posting. If nothing else, that should help me determine what percentage of the weight (around 4000) is on the front wheels.

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Old 02-18-2019, 11:05 AM
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Determine front weight per Fang 16 video. Jack up front of car. Loosen adjusting nut on bottom of shock to relieve spring load. Remove shock and spring. Measure diameters, length, and coil wire thickness. See below and call Speedway. Buy springs only if shocks are good. Reinstall and adjust nut for ride height.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/QA1-M...SABEgKVZvD_BwE

Below are springs only:

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/QA1-8...yABEgLRLfD_BwE

Last edited by '48 Austin; 02-18-2019 at 11:17 AM.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2019, 11:55 AM
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mainstreetprod

Where are you located? I likely know someone near you with a spring smasher to figure the rate, then we can recommend something in about the same rate but 3-4" longer. I'd imagine that spring is coil binding or getting too close to coil bind and the rates will sometimes get way off when you're that close to coil bind.
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Old 02-18-2019, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnsongrass1 View Post
mainstreetprod

Where are you located? I likely know someone near you with a spring smasher to figure the rate, then we can recommend something in about the same rate but 3-4" longer. I'd imagine that spring is coil binding or getting too close to coil bind and the rates will sometimes get way off when you're that close to coil bind.
I'm located just north of Nashville TN. I believe the springs for Mustang II front ends are generally 500, 600 and 700 pound. I would assume with this Lincoln I would need the heaviest capacity?

Also, my car still has the stock lower A arms - will the coilover drop through the bottom when unbolted?
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Old 02-18-2019, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnsongrass1 View Post
mainstreetprod

Where are you located? I likely know someone near you with a spring smasher to figure the rate, then we can recommend something in about the same rate but 3-4" longer. I'd imagine that spring is coil binding or getting too close to coil bind and the rates will sometimes get way off when you're that close to coil bind.
I'm in Rogers Ar. and need to check my springs. Would you happen to know anyone in my area that could "smash" my springs?

Thanks johnsongrass.
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Old 02-18-2019, 12:38 PM
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Earlier someone asked to see a photo of the car- this is the delivery guy backing it off the trailer.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2019, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fang16 View Post
I'm in Rogers Ar. and need to check my springs. Would you happen to know anyone in my area that could "smash" my springs?

Thanks johnsongrass.

How far are you willing to go?

PCD Race Cars, $30 or so...

Email: [email protected]

Phone: 479.409.0949 (Shane)

Springdale, Arkansas

Last edited by johnsongrass1; 02-18-2019 at 01:57 PM.
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Old 02-18-2019, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnsongrass1 View Post
How far are you willing to go?

PCD Race Cars, $30 or so...

Email: [email protected]

Phone: 479.409.0949 (Shane)

Springdale, Arkansas
Thanks! Just a few miles way.
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Old 02-19-2019, 01:41 PM
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I have a similar setup as yours in my 46 Ford Coupe (stock mustang II with coli over conversion). I'm sorry that I can't help you with spring rates since I can't remember the exact springs I used. It's been in service for over 20 years.

My car weighs about 3900 lbs with me and a half tank of fuel. I'm pretty sure I used the heaviest springs that I could get at the time. Seems to me that I started out with 500 lb springs, but they sagged pretty quick and started looking like yours. I think I went to 600 lb springs after that, but I notice that they might need to be replaced on the next freshening up I do on the car.

What I can tell you for sure is that removing the shocks and springs from mine is a more difficult than just unbolting them and dropping the control arm with a jack due to the deep construction of the stock stamped MII control arms. The strut rod rubber bushings will not flex enough to allow them to come out this way. I have to unbolt the struts from the lower control arm to get enough travel. I seem to remember having to break the lower ball joint loose, too, but it's been a loooong time since I had to pull them out.

You may have a tough time getting good suspension travel and keeping the ride height that you have now without going to dropped spindles. you can adjust the control arms for good travel and still get 2" lower ride height. Just a suggestion.

Also, I have looked at several stock MII's (the actual Ford car) and they all have the lower control arms running slightly downhill toward the tire when viewed from the front. This is because, on the stock stamped CA's, the center of the pivot bushing is not directly in line with the center of the ball joint ball when the CA is level. Having "level" control arms means having a line drawn though these pivot points level. Tubular CA's are not made like this and they will be level to the eye.

Last edited by Hotrod46; 02-19-2019 at 01:55 PM.
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Old 02-21-2019, 05:45 AM
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Is the harshness in the ride due to spring binding or hitting the bump rubbers?

It shouldn't be anything to do with the damping, though that can add to ride discomfort.
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Old 02-21-2019, 05:48 AM
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What you have is an early aftermarket cross member kit. A stock crossmember has a rolled edge to strengthen the spring tower. Also the tie rod ends have been lengthened to accommodate a longer spread distance from one side of the frame to the other. The lower control arm should be angled down from the pivot bolt. When it is level, you are 3/4 of the way through the stock travel.
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Old 02-21-2019, 05:57 AM
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To date I have installed over 50 stock mustang 2 cross members . The early ones have a T shaped bolt that drops down into the cross member and turns to hold the upper control arm, the later ones have a river head bolt that is installed from the bottom of the spring tower. Also there are 2 stock widths on the crossmembers , measuring the spread of the lower control arm pivots
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Old 02-21-2019, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by dgriffith View Post
What you have is an early aftermarket cross member kit. A stock crossmember has a rolled edge to strengthen the spring tower. Also the tie rod ends have been lengthened to accommodate a longer spread distance from one side of the frame to the other. The lower control arm should be angled down from the pivot bolt. When it is level, you are 3/4 of the way through the stock travel.
Makes since that this is an early crossmember since the rod was built 15-20 years ago. I'll keep the control arm angle in mind when swapping the springs, not sure what the actual angle is since the car is so low and has been in my small garage since I bought it. All I have is the one picture to go by and the angle it was taken at could affect the perception.
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Old 02-21-2019, 11:05 AM
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Start with the given. From the center of the spindle to the floor is about 12 inches, look at the car and see what the tire/ wheel clearance is to the fender opening. You can go with a longer spring/shock setup and then put a set of dropped spindles to bring the ride height down. Ideally the lower control arm pivot bolt should be 12in To put the control arm in the proper place.
From the picture, there’s a lot of work to be done. It is almost worth it to start over with a newer cross member setup. The first attempts at cross member kits were not that good. That’s why I stuck with the oem cross member. The first one I did was 1976. 1936 Plymouth sedan. 13 years And 147k miles. Sold it to a friend who is Still driving it.
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Old 02-21-2019, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgriffith View Post
Start with the given. From the center of the spindle to the floor is about 12 inches, look at the car and see what the tire/ wheel clearance is to the fender opening. You can go with a longer spring/shock setup and then put a set of dropped spindles to bring the ride height down. Ideally the lower control arm pivot bolt should be 12in To put the control arm in the proper place.
From the picture, there’s a lot of work to be done. It is almost worth it to start over with a newer cross member setup. The first attempts at cross member kits were not that good. That’s why I stuck with the oem cross member. The first one I did was 1976. 1936 Plymouth sedan. 13 years And 147k miles. Sold it to a friend who is Still driving it.
Today I was able to drive the car a much longer distance. Rides much better than I thought- the roughness was flat spots in the tires that went away after a while. Did bottom out on a large speed bump, but does have some travel. Still a bit stiff and could use some improvement, but not bad and perfectly acceptable for a street rod. The lower A arms, looking under the front for the first time, are exactly parallel with the pavement. I believe it was you that posted they needed to go slightly downhill from inside to outside pivot?

Brakes are another story. The stock (I assume) Mustang II brakes with under floor power booster are very weak. They will bring the car to a stop, but can't skid a tire and are reminiscent of mechanical brakes. If anyone is using similar brakes on a car of similar weight with better results, let me know. Speaking of weight, I tried the Youtube "posterboard" method and came up with a whopping 5400 pounds. That can't be right- original curb weight was supposed to be 4300 and this car has a small block, not a V-12. Should be closer to 4000. I'll take it to the scale at the county landfill.
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