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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2019, 05:47 PM
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As for brakes. If you’re running a GM rear end go with 69to 72 Camaro rotors and calipers Use the inner and outer mustang bearings with a National oil seal 50409. if A Ford rear use Granada rotors. They willing handle the breaking chores. Brake caliper brackets are available from several suppliers

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2019, 10:48 PM
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So can someone tell me what would happen if I simply adjusted the coil over adjustment nuts downward, say an inch? Obviously suspension travel increases, but what happens to ride height and lower control arm position? Right now the bottom of the stock arms are exactly parallel with the pavement.
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Old 02-21-2019, 10:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotrod46 View Post
I have a similar setup as yours in my 46 Ford Coupe (stock mustang II with coli over conversion). I'm sorry that I can't help you with spring rates since I can't remember the exact springs I used. It's been in service for over 20 years.

My car weighs about 3900 lbs with me and a half tank of fuel. I'm pretty sure I used the heaviest springs that I could get at the time. Seems to me that I started out with 500 lb springs, but they sagged pretty quick and started looking like yours. I think I went to 600 lb springs after that, but I notice that they might need to be replaced on the next freshening up I do on the car.

What I can tell you for sure is that removing the shocks and springs from mine is a more difficult than just unbolting them and dropping the control arm with a jack due to the deep construction of the stock stamped MII control arms. The strut rod rubber bushings will not flex enough to allow them to come out this way. I have to unbolt the struts from the lower control arm to get enough travel. I seem to remember having to break the lower ball joint loose, too, but it's been a loooong time since I had to pull them out.

You may have a tough time getting good suspension travel and keeping the ride height that you have now without going to dropped spindles. you can adjust the control arms for good travel and still get 2" lower ride height. Just a suggestion.

Also, I have looked at several stock MII's (the actual Ford car) and they all have the lower control arms running slightly downhill toward the tire when viewed from the front. This is because, on the stock stamped CA's, the center of the pivot bushing is not directly in line with the center of the ball joint ball when the CA is level. Having "level" control arms means having a line drawn though these pivot points level. Tubular CA's are not made like this and they will be level to the eye.
Very useful info. Theoretically the weight of my car should be very close to yours, but will find a scale to make sure. One my car, the bottom of the stamped steel arms is parallel to the ground.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2019, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainstreetprod View Post
So can someone tell me what would happen if I simply adjusted the coil over adjustment nuts downward, say an inch? Obviously suspension travel increases, but what happens to ride height and lower control arm position? Right now the bottom of the stock arms are exactly parallel with the pavement.
With the adjusting nut on the bottom, all that will do is lower the ride height....it won't change ride stiffness at all. To change ride quality, you've got to change the spring rate.
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Old 02-22-2019, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ericnova72 View Post
With the adjusting nut on the bottom, all that will do is lower the ride height....it won't change ride stiffness at all. To change ride quality, you've got to change the spring rate.
So adjusting the nut downward will lower the height? I assumed the reason they were adjusted so far upward was to get the car down on the ground. Also, it seems to me like the spring characteristics will change as the nut is adjusted down - coils will open up, suspension will have a lot more travel, and ride should improve. A compressed spring with little travel should have a rougher ride.
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Old 02-22-2019, 11:21 AM
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Adjusting the nut downward will lower the ride height. It will not change ride characteristics. If you don't believe us, try it and you'll learn for yourself. A number of people posted "you need a stiffer spring, higher load rating, or a higher spring rate". They all mean the same thing. You have too much weight up front for the springs you have. CHANGE THE SPRINGS.
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Old 02-22-2019, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainstreetprod View Post
So adjusting the nut downward will lower the height? I assumed the reason they were adjusted so far upward was to get the car down on the ground. Also, it seems to me like the spring characteristics will change as the nut is adjusted down - coils will open up, suspension will have a lot more travel, and ride should improve. A compressed spring with little travel should have a rougher ride.
It doesn't work like that exactly.
Coil spring rate is dependent on three things. The wire diameter, the width of the spring and the number of coils.
On coil overs, you aren't changing any of the above unless you run the adjuster up to the point some coils are touching. That reduces the number of active coils and makes the spring stiffer but your lose the travel to soften the ride. Assuming they are not touching, or coil bound as we call it, all your doing is adjusting the relative position of the spring to the frame of the car. Basically adjusting the ride height and that's it.
If the car weighs 4000lbs, the front weighs 2000lbs and each corner weighs 500lbs, than 250lb spring would compress 2". Moving the nut up or down doesn't change the amount of weight the spring has too hold up. In this case it's 500lbs.
A longer 250lb spring lowers the nut but still compresses 2". A short 250lbs spring raises the nut but still compresses 2".
The idea is too find the weight the spring has to hold up, selecting a rate that holds up the car and is still long enough to put the adjuster nut somewhere in the range of it's adjustable range.
In your case, the spring is too short if you want to keep the ride how it is(coil binding), it's too soft and too short if you want a stiffer ride( coil binding and won't hold up the car).
So now you have to decide what your want. A softer or stiffer ride? The same ride quality but not bottoming out?
If it's just ride height and you're okay with the quality then you need 3-4inch longer spring in the same rate so the adjuster nut can have more upward travel to set the ride height where you want it.

Last edited by johnsongrass1; 02-22-2019 at 03:16 PM.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2019, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by johnsongrass1 View Post
So now you have to decide what your want. A softer or stiffer ride? The same ride quality but not bottoming out?
If it's just ride height and you're okay with the quality then you need 3-4inch longer spring in the same rate so the adjuster nut can have more upward travel to set the ride height where you want it.

As it turned out, my problem with the ride was mainly flat spots on the tires from 15 years storage. After driving a mile or so and getting used to the fact that it doesn't ride like a stock '48 Lincoln (a mobile sofa), I'm OK with the ride. And the ride height is perfect. So I guess what I have to decide is whether the suspension has adequate travel, and I'd say it's an inch or two short of that. And if I change the springs, I might as well soften the ride a notch or two. The trick is figuring out what spring to buy- I don't want to do three trial and error tear down and rebuilds of the suspension. While I'm at it I'll replace the pathetic 9" brakes with 11".
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Old 02-23-2019, 05:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainstreetprod View Post
As it turned out, my problem with the ride was mainly flat spots on the tires from 15 years storage. After driving a mile or so and getting used to the fact that it doesn't ride like a stock '48 Lincoln (a mobile sofa), I'm OK with the ride. And the ride height is perfect. So I guess what I have to decide is whether the suspension has adequate travel, and I'd say it's an inch or two short of that. And if I change the springs, I might as well soften the ride a notch or two. The trick is figuring out what spring to buy- I don't want to do three trial and error tear down and rebuilds of the suspension. While I'm at it I'll replace the pathetic 9" brakes with 11".
This is the brake kit I used, it's a true bolt on. Only install tip is to sand the paint some from the outside of the replacement oil seals so they install easier and don't distort, read the reviews on the website. They also offer the kit with a Ford bolt pattern.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Musta...M-BP,2007.html
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Old 02-23-2019, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob37pont View Post
This is the brake kit I used, it's a true bolt on. Only install tip is to sand the paint some from the outside of the replacement oil seals so they install easier and don't distort, read the reviews on the website. They also offer the kit with a Ford bolt pattern.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Musta...M-BP,2007.html
Thanks for posting that, without a recommendation from someone buying a kit is just a shot in the dark. Price is great too!
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Old 02-23-2019, 11:45 AM
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Keep in mind that any kit that uses Granada rotors will widen the track about 1" (1/2" per side). The Camaro rotors may do the same, but I have never used them.

There are some kits that use custom hubs and separate rotors that don't change the track as much. I have a Baer kit on my current project that only adds 1/4" to each side.

Check tire clearance to the fenders well to make sure you don't run into trouble.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2019, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Hotrod46 View Post
Keep in mind that any kit that uses Granada rotors will widen the track about 1" (1/2" per side). The Camaro rotors may do the same, but I have never used them.

There are some kits that use custom hubs and separate rotors that don't change the track as much. I have a Baer kit on my current project that only adds 1/4" to each side.

Check tire clearance to the fenders well to make sure you don't run into trouble.
Only had my car a couple of weeks and haven't had the wheels (5 lug 17" mags) off yet, but I assume if the 9" brakes are not aftermarket that I have wheel adapters to go from 4 to 5 lug, which should make the track similar to Granada rotors. Correct?
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Old 02-23-2019, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Hotrod46 View Post
Keep in mind that any kit that uses Granada rotors will widen the track about 1" (1/2" per side). The Camaro rotors may do the same, but I have never used them.

There are some kits that use custom hubs and separate rotors that don't change the track as much. I have a Baer kit on my current project that only adds 1/4" to each side.

Check tire clearance to the fenders well to make sure you don't run into trouble.
Only had my car a couple of weeks and haven't had the wheels (5 lug 17" mags) off yet, but I assume if the 9" brakes are not aftermarket that I have wheel adapters to go from 4 to 5 lug, which should make the track similar to Granada rotors. Correct?
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Old 02-23-2019, 03:41 PM
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You might even be narrower when you lose the adapters. Should be close. If you are narrower, a thin spacer will get you back to where you are now.

Be sure to check bolt pattern on your current wheels before deciding a brake kit.
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Old 02-25-2019, 06:12 AM
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On my Pontiac the front track width was about 3 narrower than the Camaro rear track (some of that was the tires, 235 vs 215), and I had plenty of clearance inside the fenders for the wider front track. Mine had GM pattern 9" rotors when I got it, didn't have any worries about spacers/adapters.
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