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Old 09-15-2019, 03:45 PM
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Question My cars too low & my headers drag

I'm seeking a temporary solution until I get the car raised back up and sitting proper, but that will require a great deal of suspension work. Right now my headers are about 2 inches off the ground & i'm essentially scraping leaves if you fellas know what I mean. Swapping my long-tubes out for a shorter exhaust ain't really an option- This motors really jammed in there; i'd have to lift it 8 inches out of the car to change em'out. My flange is already bent on the passenger side from scraping so is there a way to heat these puppies up and give them a nice bend with a 2x4 or a bat inside the header? Just to pull up on them and grant more clearance. Have any of you tried this? I'm just a young greaser wrenching on my hotrod & I know this may not be the right way to go about it- I just lack the funds for a proper restoration right now and this ain't workin.

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Old 09-15-2019, 10:00 PM
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I'd yank the headers and install original cast iron log manifolds for the time being.
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Old 09-16-2019, 04:54 AM
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Given the specifics you gave on what you have and what ain't workin I agree with Techinspector.
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Old 09-16-2019, 05:13 AM
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Based on your former threads I believe you have a 65 Elky that was orig a 6 cyl, then a 327, and now you put a 454 / 468 in it. If you still have the old worn out 6 cyl suspension in there you need to upgrade that period.

I had a 67 Elky with a ZZ572 in it and even with a Brand New Hotchkis TVS Extreme Sport Suspension; Front & Rear Extreme Sway Bars, Front & Rear Sport Coils, Front & Rear Sport Shocks, Heavy Duty Tie Rod Sleeves, Heavy Duty Lower Trailing Arms, Heavy Duty Fully Adjustable Upper Trailing Arms...
I WAS STILL TO LOW and occasionally scraped, but I was scraping the oil pan, not the headers.

I had Mid Length Headers and they will give you a lot more clearance.

PS
Cheapest TEMP fix is put a taller front tire on it
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Old 09-16-2019, 05:20 AM
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May ring my muffler shop for advice

Well, the deal is i'd have to undo the motor mounts & yank the whole engine out for a seemingly simple exhaust swap. This is all because, see, in 1965, the el camino didn't offer the SS package quite yet as the chevelle did, but as you folks may remember they were virtually akin back then, other than the bed instead of a trunk. All I did was use the 396 brackets to fit in the 468 when I did my swap. It worked. The suckers just jammed in there way too tight. I cant fit a finger between the steering shaft and the header. Herein lies the problem.. have you ever heard of "trimming them" perhaps around the flange. Im desperate for ideas here
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Old 09-16-2019, 05:25 AM
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ProStreetRob that was a beautiful ride, ideally how i'd like mine to look when finished. I appreciate you listing those suspension specs since I wasn't sure what would work on an A-body frame. & yes, just as you figured haha it still has the original 6cyl base suspension, with one wheel peel. Someone cut the coil-overs on it too, adding insult to injury. I currently have 215-70-15's on the front and that rubs the fender wells a bit when I turn, running 275-60-15's on the back. I have air shocks aswell but raising up the arse end of the car only helps when I stomp it from takeoff so I dont drag one side of the bumper on the ground
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Old 09-16-2019, 06:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LowNLOUD View Post
ProStreetRob that was a beautiful ride, ideally how i'd like mine to look when finished. I appreciate you listing those suspension specs since I wasn't sure what would work on an A-body frame. & yes, just as you figured haha it still has the original 6cyl base suspension, with one wheel peel. Someone cut the coil-overs on it too, adding insult to injury. I currently have 215-70-15's on the front and that rubs the fender wells a bit when I turn, running 275-60-15's on the back. I have air shocks aswell but raising up the arse end of the car only helps when I stomp it from takeoff so I dont drag one side of the bumper on the ground

Need to fix that, cobbling a fix will cost more later. Yes nice ride I like it.

Pep
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Old 09-16-2019, 07:09 AM
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I'm not sure if 65 is a drop in like the 68 up but a set of big block coils springs run about $85 and would net quite a bit and give you a spring rate closer to what you need. Ride height is only part of the issue. With cut 6 cyl springs you got to be close to the bumpstops with big block in there.

With some header /engine installs it's easier to pull the column.] to get the headers in place.
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Old 09-16-2019, 07:33 AM
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I been where you are about a dozen times. It is the reason why I am using cast forward facing "turbo" headers then going 180 back on my ls build.

Logs flow like heck(and use doughnuts), block huggers can block spark plugs, mid length always seems like they need to be modified, and full length always end up sitting to low.

Thing is to do this right you need to bite the bullet. Pull the headers and modify them. You can bang them up a bit for clearance. But eventually your going to tweak the tubes in the flange enough that the welds will crack or leak.

If you have a custom application your going to need a custom exhaust to meet your rides needs. This leaves you with a "u build it" header kit. While your here you might as well install band clamps after the collector as they just make everything easier.

I get it your broke and just want your ride to not scrape. But at some point your going to have and pull those headers and install a temporary fix. Instead of wasting cash on a temporary fix run a u weld it kit tacking it up then welding it on your or someone with better equipment's bench.

Been there done that. Even if you have some logs sitting in the dirt somewhere your going to spend around a hundred to fit them to your current exhaust going into it knowing that your eating that cost of the temporary fix. That cash can go towards a "u weld it" setup saving you cash in the long run.

Now if this is something that you drive back and forth on a daily basis then the "temporary fix" is something that can be done in a weekend.

I have always allowed 2 weeks (around 12-14hrs) to build a header setup in car. Your going back and forth several times having to maybe wait on a 45 or 60 degree bend you did not plan on needing.
If you have the time to do it right then building your own headers will give you the best result.
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Old 09-16-2019, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LowNLOUD View Post
ProStreetRob that was a beautiful ride, ideally how i'd like mine to look when finished. I appreciate you listing those suspension specs since I wasn't sure what would work on an A-body frame. & yes, just as you figured haha it still has the original 6cyl base suspension, with one wheel peel. Someone cut the coil-overs on it too, adding insult to injury. I currently have 215-70-15's on the front and that rubs the fender wells a bit when I turn, running 275-60-15's on the back. I have air shocks aswell but raising up the arse end of the car only helps when I stomp it from takeoff so I dont drag one side of the bumper on the ground
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I was running
295/40R17 Rear 26.29 x 11.61
245/45R17 Front 25.68 x 9.65

Based on your name I guess you like it Low, LOL...
unfortunately a Big Block in an old Chevy with cut 6cyl coils & air shocks is NOT the way to go. It doesn't have to be crazy expensive, just the right front & rear coils and shocks. and even with a good suspension you still want that exhaust up, tucked, and no where near hitting or dragging.
Just need the right headers

But even with the right headers you are right, it is tight in there. If you look on a couple of these pics you can see the shiny part where the steering shaft occasionally rubbed on my headers. it was never enough to be an issue but I was considering a couple of washers under the motor mounts to raise the motor. Done right you can shoe horn it in there and make it all work just fine, just do your homework.

By the way the rear coils are cake, hell you can raise the car with a jack and they'll literally fall out. Would take 1/2 hour to do both sides. Fronts can be a ***** but you need to get those cut 6 cyl coils out.

Got any pics of how it sits ?
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Old 09-17-2019, 04:48 PM
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Rob - that carb looks like a 2 barrel on that motor - lol. Need a 1050+ to look correct.
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Old 09-17-2019, 06:37 PM
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LOL... but looks are a little deceiving. It was actually a 850 CFM DP DF mech secondary's modified with a 1050 CFM Base

I miss it but got my price when I put it up for sale, now it's in Germany. Someone wanted it real bad I guess...
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