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Old 05-16-2002, 08:43 PM
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Question New at body, please help.

I have a 1990 MN-12 T-bird. I have rust all around the rear fenders. what's the best way of cutting out the rusted part of the rear 1/4s, and replacing it? I was thinking of finding a doner car with little or no rust around the fenders, and cutting them out and welding them onto my T-bird. Because of the flair in the fender, I dont have the knowlage or the tools to make new ones.
Its the only part of the car with rust I have not fixed yet and I would like to do it before I get the new paint job.
I guess my question is how do I cut out the rusted part with out cutting into the frame? and sould I find a donner car for new ones, or learn how to make them myself?


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Old 05-16-2002, 11:50 PM
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Have no fear the Halloween King is here! Don't fret, you can do it, I'll place my bet!

Ok enough with the oddness. Yes find a donor car if possible, it would make life much simpler for you. As for cutting, use a air or electric grinder with a cutting disc or wheel, you can find them at every hardware store, if not, well its not a hardware store. You can also use a hole saw with a small toothed metal cutting bit, but the cutting wheel is easier I find. Cut out the rusted area and make a patch panel from the donor car and weld it in, be carful not to get the metal too hot, or it will warp. so just weld a little at a time. After your done welding, grind the welds smooth and coat with a light coat of dynaglass body filler, sand smooth and prime and paint.

Send me a personal message or e-mail if you need step by step help, I will try and exsplain it to you and answer any questions you may have.
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Old 05-26-2002, 08:26 PM
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Try to find a donar car, if not than order a fender from supplier. Try to get it from the same place that a body shop gets them from because those suppliers are the cheapest. You might have to call a body shop to see who they buy from for body panels. As far as the cutting, that cutting wheel will need a lot of consistent airflow at 90 psi, usually about 10 cfm or more. A little 3.5 hp compressor will not do well so you will have to stop every couple minutes. If you have a big 80 gallon tank then you are set; you probably don't because they cost atleast $900 usually and most people don't have them. When you weld the new piece in place use a mig welder if you have one. If you don't you are not going to have fun at this. Arc welders are not good for this type of welding and gas welding heats the metal too much. Some Migs even have timers for welding thin sheetmetal like body parts. You want to have very little amperage going through the unit, usually less than 35 amps I find is the best. Don't use wire too big or the current won't be focused enough or else you will have to turn the amperage for it to work and then you could burn through the metal. If you are not an experienced welder, find a friend to help you that is experienced. Use a copper heatsink held directly over the weld on the backside of the metal. This will draw heat through the weld and into it to keep the heat from spreading. The heat spreading will cause distortion and mishaping of the metal. Weld in cycles of about 3 or 4 inches or 4 seconds. After each cycle, skip the equivelant distance of two cycles and then start again. You will make three rounds of cycles with enough time for the metal to cool in between each round. I usually put four small tack welds spread through the area so that you can move the clamps closest to the small areas you are working on. I am going in detail, assuming you haven't tried this before; if you have, sorry. If you want to cool the metal faster, turn an electric fan to blow on the area, in between welding rounds but not during. After you have welded the seam completely, grind the welds down smooth and then spread some body filler over the seam. Make sure you paint (not primer) the area if you don't plan on getting a paint job for a while. Primer is porous and will not protect against rust. There is a chemical call Por-15 that kills rust and seals against future rust. This is the best rust killer and preventative available and it dries extremely hard. Read the instructions on application before painting because if you don't the protection isn't gauranteed. Coat the metal on both sides and make sure you spray the back side with undercoating when you can. Again sorry for the lengthy post but I was assuming you haven't tried this before and I like to be thorough so that people don't mess up and get the problem again.
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Old 06-04-2002, 03:45 PM
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Hey T Bird If the rust ie not all the way though the Pannels use por-15 its great stuff I think there web address is if that not it you can find them Hot Rod .
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