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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-09-2015 06:29 PM
vinniekq2 Thanks ,, but if I buy a used military plane I want an F-16? I just love the look of that bird.I flew to Reno and stopped over at Kallamath Falls years ago and watched them do circuits. They did not offer me a ride,,,
08-09-2015 06:26 PM
SoulSurfSD
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
re aircraft mechanic,,, I would love to find a nice l/m model 172 if you see any deals?

you have had almost unanimous agreement on ditching your old heads and flat tappet cam? Time to make more power and burn less fuel per horse power produced!

Hey Vinnie,
I worked on Boeings and Lockheeds in the AF... maybe you can get a deal on one of the C-141s out at Davis-Monthan... but I doubt it
08-08-2015 07:31 PM
vinniekq2
any local car club/restoration center etc would love those old junk heads.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SoulSurfSD View Post
Hey Jim, thanks for the wise advice.


Since the motor is a nice rebuild that has sat for a couple of years (which is the only reason I'm going to tear it down), I guess I should find out what I can get for the 492s, and the "NOS" 291s that I have, calculate the difference for Vortecs, roller cam, springs, intake etc., and see how I want to go about it.


I might just make sure it's balanced and the deck height is optimal, run it with the current components for now, and if I end up at the strip enough, then figure out what I want to spend on improvements.
As far as the work involved, I used to be an aircraft mechanic, so I don't mind turning wrenches for a good cause.


Anybody have some ideas on where to best market the "antique" heads?
re aircraft mechanic,,, I would love to find a nice l/m model 172 if you see any deals?

you have had almost unanimous agreement on ditching your old heads and flat tappet cam? Time to make more power and burn less fuel per horse power produced!
08-08-2015 04:16 PM
SoulSurfSD
Quote:
Originally Posted by 64nailhead View Post
If you aren't interested in numbers matching/period correct casting numbers, then lose the antique heads. I did it once and will never do it again. A set of Vortecs are going to out run and out mileage any of the old heads. You can pickup a set of rebuilt ones for roughly the same money you're going to put in the old ones. And now is the time to put the roller cam in because you're going to be putting new springs on whatever heads you choose to use. The additional $300 or so for the roller will save another $600+ later.

I can't say it enough to build your long block for the long haul and tuning, carbs, ignition, and headers can be done easily later. Do you really want to build this with a FT cam and stocker heads today and be tearing it back apart 6 months to a year from now?

My two cents and good luck - Jim

Hey Jim, thanks for the wise advice.


Since the motor is a nice rebuild that has sat for a couple of years (which is the only reason I'm going to tear it down), I guess I should find out what I can get for the 492s, and the "NOS" 291s that I have, calculate the difference for Vortecs, roller cam, springs, intake etc., and see how I want to go about it.


I might just make sure it's balanced and the deck height is optimal, run it with the current components for now, and if I end up at the strip enough, then figure out what I want to spend on improvements.
As far as the work involved, I used to be an aircraft mechanic, so I don't mind turning wrenches for a good cause.


Anybody have some ideas on where to best market the "antique" heads?
08-07-2015 08:37 PM
64nailhead If you aren't interested in numbers matching/period correct casting numbers, then lose the antique heads. I did it once and will never do it again. A set of Vortecs are going to out run and out mileage any of the old heads. You can pickup a set of rebuilt ones for roughly the same money you're going to put in the old ones. And now is the time to put the roller cam in because you're going to be putting new springs on whatever heads you choose to use. The additional $300 or so for the roller will save another $600+ later.

I can't say it enough to build your long block for the long haul and tuning, carbs, ignition, and headers can be done easily later. Do you really want to build this with a FT cam and stocker heads today and be tearing it back apart 6 months to a year from now?

My two cents and good luck - Jim
08-07-2015 12:17 PM
SoulSurfSD
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
I would be very disappointed if my car ran 14s,,, Back when I had my 67 SS Camaro I dipped into the high 11s using the GM service angle plug heads.

I was thinking if you wanted cast iron and did not mind a Vortec intake? Then buy a "new" set of modified vortec heads from someone like Scoggin Dickey,already mentioned hydraulic roller cam or if flat tappet then a pressure oiled solid lifter cam. (I would recommend an Isky Z-25 (or Z-27 for a hot engine) 750 double pumper on a rpm vortec intake.This combo should go high 12s with a decent idle. You biggest problem will be keeping V-belts on the beast. This combo would pull from 4,000-6400 like a scalded ape!!! Should easily net over 380 hp. This engine with a little gear and o/drive transmission will make you smile all day,,,

Thanks Vinnie, I'll keep all of this in mind for "Phase 2"...
08-07-2015 07:56 AM
jax_pap a little gear and o/drive transmission will make you smile all day,,,




I agree with vinn on the gear and O/D tranny.
I had the stock 3.42 gear in the truck after I put in that lil cheapo stall in the 700r4. I thought it done a great job. then I put the 4.56 gear behind the stall, and stock 305 tbi, I havnt stopped smiling since.


I got the motor and rearend out of the 89' and installed them in a 94' now, but its got a 5 speed tranny (nv3500), the 4.56 gear is even more fun behind that 5 spd. my cruise rpm is only 1800-2400 in O/D. it works for me in my low speed zone (30-55 mph), small town.


I'm not saying you need a 4.56!!!!! but, O/D tranny's will take more gear.
your 235 60 15 tires will measure 25-26" tall. at 3000 rpm at 80 mph, with a 1:1 (th350 in 3rd) tranny gear, then you should have a 2.73-3.08 rear gear. these are terrible gears for any O/D tranny. you will need no less then a 4.10 gear to get to the FUN level with the O/D tranny. do your homework, that 327 likes to rev. around here, I would set it up to turn 2000 rpm at 45 mph in O/D, converter locked. BUT, that is for MY situation, NOT everybodys.
the acceleration with the 4.56 gear is what puts a smile on my face, not the puny 165hp, 250 ft/lbs tq stock 305 under the hood.
heres a calculator for you to play with. tire height, tranny gears, rear gears, rpm, mph. have fun!!!!!
Ring And Pinion Gears, Axles and Axle Shafts, Drivetrain Parts and Tools, Transmission Parts, and Transfer Case Parts - Accu Auto Parts

08-06-2015 10:55 PM
vinniekq2
heads

Quote:
Originally Posted by SoulSurfSD View Post
Thanks Vinnie... I'll have to decide whether I'm mainly going to be "cruising", with things being more about novelty, or whether I'm really going to be racing (street legal bracket racing). Now that they've re-opened the AAA Dragway (which I can see from my backyard), going with modern heads is something to think about...


I might run the 492s for now (have to find some headers that will work of course), and if I really start racing it, I can always sell them and the 291s, and get some modern heads to get me closer to that 14 second goal...
I would be very disappointed if my car ran 14s,,, Back when I had my 67 SS Camaro I dipped into the high 11s using the GM service angle plug heads.

I was thinking if you wanted cast iron and did not mind a Vortec intake? Then buy a "new" set of modified vortec heads from someone like Scoggin Dickey,already mentioned hydraulic roller cam or if flat tappet then a pressure oiled solid lifter cam. (I would recommend an Isky Z-25 (or Z-27 for a hot engine) 750 double pumper on a rpm vortec intake.This combo should go high 12s with a decent idle. You biggest problem will be keeping V-belts on the beast. This combo would pull from 4,000-6400 like a scalded ape!!! Should easily net over 380 hp. This engine with a little gear and o/drive transmission will make you smile all day,,,
08-06-2015 08:36 PM
MouseFink The real Z-28 valve springs have been discontinued by GM. The Z-28 valve springs were variously listed for the LT-1 and for off-road use under part number 3427142. The original Z-28 valve springs are still listed today but are merely regular production valve springs and are still available under the old Z-28 part number 3911068. A 1991 Chevrolet Blazer 4.3 L v6 was equipped with the 3911068 valve springs.
08-06-2015 08:09 PM
SoulSurfSD
Quote:
Originally Posted by jokerZ71 View Post
Tho the Nostalgia cam does have more aggressive lobes compared to the GM cam, it is not as aggressive as the Extreme series cams.Comp recommends the 26981-16 behives with 110 psi seat/292 psi open for both, the Nostalgia L79 & for their standard L79 repro that has the same specs as the GM cam.With proper break in & oil use, it will be fine & give alot better performance over that outdated GM cam.I wouldn't say the Nostalgia cam is a "competition only" cam.It's just an improved replacement over the original, offering the same sound, with much better performance & efficiency.


Thanks Joker, I think I'll end up going with the Nostalgia+ L79, and probably upgrade to the beehive springs later on, if I go to the drag strip enough...
08-06-2015 08:05 PM
SoulSurfSD
Quote:
Originally Posted by MouseFink View Post
The "dual" springs you see are actually single valve springs that contain a flat damper spring.


Ah, thanks for clarifying that! I just assumed that was "dual"...
So I assume they'll be fine, as long as I'm not using too aggressive a cam...


What are your thoughts on the "beehive" springs for a future upgrade (if needed)?
08-06-2015 07:13 PM
MouseFink
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoulSurfSD View Post
Thanks MF,
Is the Street Pros cam that you recommended any different than the Comp Cams in that respect?

The 492s on this 327 have dual springs, so I think floating shouldn't be an issue. My Malibu definitely isn't a daily driver, but might be used more for cruising than racing... of course, with a drag strip right down the road, it might see more racing than cruising...
However, without modifying the rest of the drive train my "racing" might be more like "1/4-mile cruising", but it's all good!

If I'm planning on a long cruise, like the Arizona Route 66 cruise, I might throw the 283 back in it.

The Speed Pro CS179R camshaft is an exact duplicate of the GM L79 camshaft. On the other hand, the cam lobe profile of the Comp Cams 12-106-3 is supposed to be a optimized version of the GM L79 camshaft. The CC version of the L79 camshaft has faster ramps. The previous owner of my 1962 Chevrolet Bel Air used Speed Pro camshaft, lifters and valve springs when the engine was rebuilt in 1990.

The Comp Cams 12-106-3 duplicate of the L79 camshaft was not available in 1990. That was because the GM-3863151 camshaft used in the L79 engine option was still available from the dealerships. The GM-3863151 camshaft was discontinued by GM about 1998. After that, the aftermarket duplicates began to appear.

Your heads do not have dual springs unless the original springs have been replaced with larger dual valve springs. That would require machine work to enlarge the spring pockets and to reduce the valve guide diameter. The "dual" springs you see are actually single valve springs that contain a flat damper spring. The flat damper has negligible effect on the valve spring pressure. The damper is used only to reduce spring harmonic vibration at high RPM. The Speed Pro Z28 replacements are single spring with a flat damper. The Comp Cams 981 valve springs that are recommended with their 12-106-3 camshaft are the same design as the Speed Pro valve springs and will also fit the stock valve spring seats without any machine work.
08-06-2015 05:23 PM
jokerZ71
Quote:
Originally Posted by MouseFink View Post
The Comp Cams reproductions of the GM high performance daily driver camshafts have cam lobes that are more radical (steep) than the GM cam lobes. The GM cam lobes are lazy in comparison. The Comp Cams version of the GM L79 cam therefore requires higher valve spring pressure in order to prevent lofting of the lifters on the return flank of the cam lobes. Lofting the lifters is a major cause of valve float at high RPM unless higher valve spring pressure is used. High spring pressure can lead to wiped out cam lobes for a daily driver.

GM camshafts are ground to last in the daily driver new car warranty period whereas Comp Cams camshafts are optimized for competition. Comp Cams and other high performance cam grinders could care less if their camshafts fail during the new car warranty period.
Tho the Nostalgia cam does have more aggressive lobes compared to the GM cam, it is not as aggressive as the Extreme series cams.Comp recommends the 26981-16 behives with 110 psi seat/292 psi open for both, the Nostalgia L79 & for their standard L79 repro that has the same specs as the GM cam.With proper break in & oil use, it will be fine & give alot better performance over that outdated GM cam.I wouldn't say the Nostalgia cam is a "competition only" cam.It's just an improved replacement over the original, offering the same sound, with much better performance & efficiency.
08-06-2015 04:59 PM
SoulSurfSD
Quote:
Originally Posted by MouseFink View Post
The Comp Cams reproductions of the GM high performance daily driver camshafts have cam lobes that are more radical (steep) than the GM cam lobes. The GM cam lobes are lazy in comparison. The Comp Cams version of the GM L79 cam therefore requires higher valve spring pressure in order to prevent lofting of the lifters on the return flank of the cam lobes. Lofting the lifters is a major cause of valve float at high RPM unless higher valve spring pressure is used. High spring pressure can lead to wiped out cam lobes for a daily driver.

GM camshafts are ground to last in the daily driver new car warranty period whereas Comp Cams camshafts are optimized for competition. Comp Cams and other high performance cam grinders could care less if their camshafts fail during the new car warranty period.

Thanks MF,
Is the Street Pros cam that you recommended any different than the Comp Cams in that respect?

The 492s on this 327 have dual springs, so I think floating shouldn't be an issue. My Malibu definitely isn't a daily driver, but might be used more for cruising than racing... of course, with a drag strip right down the road, it might see more racing than cruising...
However, without modifying the rest of the drive train my "racing" might be more like "1/4-mile cruising", but it's all good!

If I'm planning on a long cruise, like the Arizona Route 66 cruise, I might throw the 283 back in it.
08-06-2015 04:49 PM
SoulSurfSD
Quote:
Originally Posted by jokerZ71 View Post
The stall rating of the convertor has nothing to do with strength or weakness.The higher stall allows the engine to operate within it's rated RPM range without stalling or over riding.It's a performance issue vs strength.


Yeah Joker, I meant that since the converter that jp linked to is a cheap one, and "might" fail, as opposed to a $400 heavier duty one, it would be better if a cheap converter failed than if the transmission failed...
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