Mitch, hope you don't mind me sending this glorious Chevelle update through a black forum hole that comes out here...
Went over to the painters house last evening and told him I'm bringing my car home on Saturday. He has been screwing around with trying to get 2 doors and 2 fenders to fit for 2 months...
He also painted the trunk lid, Just so he could see some color on the car. I expressed my concern about painting the car in pieces at different times and the color not matching but he says he'll just blend the panels when he gets to painting the rest...WTF...this NOT how I want my car painted. Get it ALL ready and paint it ALL at the same time...:nono:
I am just so disgusted with how this has gone that I'm at a loss as to what to do now. He has the left door so jacked around that I am considering looking for a different door. The right fender has a patch in the lower dog leg that he ground thru the metal trying to get a high spot down and then keeps trying to build a patch with his welder.
See below, and take deep breaths slowly
Maybe you should duplicate that in aluminum so it is lighter...
Ah, the stick.
Y'know we was conversing about something not unlike that today. Making a heat shield under the cat tunnel. I'll get to mine shortly but man-
A valid production shop technique used by some painters is to prep a part all over, seal it, apply a coat or two of color to the whole thing, clear the jamb side and either skip clearing the panel face or blow whats left in the gun on it. Now, when final paint time comes, sanding the face is no more difficult, has some coverage, and already has sealer on. The part can be hung then and taped edges won't have much buildup when painting the panel plus the adjacent ones. Assembly scratches go away with this method. It has always been painter's choice where I have worked but in many cases it makes the job much easier with a negligible difference in materials.
Door skins fold where the manufacturer folds them. None, I repeat, none of the old car skins or shells I have seen do not require extensive edge modifications to make a good gap. Case and point, yellow Chevelle. Welded back edge of new R fender, rear edge of skinned door, left side of deck lid. So far! Left side to go. The only reason you are not hearing this from painter is he is a painter. And not an old car painter.
Same with filler on an edge and with going through a high spot. Your guy is out of his element on your car. You'll just have to, as I like to say... become your own expert. I have seen your goody work, you have seen what we do. I think you can do the things to take it where he'll need it to be for him to do what you need him to do.
Gonna be mighty high to solve it any other way, hoss. We got your back if you have the time, wherewithall, and inclination. Talk to the club or maybe your lady about it, too. By the way, random thought... If I had a Stingray, I'd find a model named Barbara to perch on the hood for some pics. Because watch out for the Barb on a Stingray.:drunk: