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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-12-2018 07:28 AM
timothale
repair measrements

a dozen years ago I took a Street Rod Fabrication class at UVU They had a new frame machine that had a lot of specs in the computer memory. It takes a lot of time=money to repair the damage and if the DMV tags your car as salvaged your insurance company may not want to insure you. one think to think about before you start/

here is a video of a similar machine
06-11-2018 08:56 PM
One to Remember I'm more than fine with keeping it for life I've already done turned down buyers over and over even when the kitchen cabinets were empty so I don't care about the safety issues or the legal issues with a resale .

When I came to the impound they really weren't trying to let me near it or look too much but from what I could see the floor board is definitely at an incline almost touching the pedal. I can't tell if the doors damage is due to a bend that may be due to the engine bay turning leftward but didn't see too many signs of that.

I guess I would go to the strut towers and measure side to side and back to front to determine warpage. I'm not sure what other points need to be examined though.

Would the body need to be stretched by the machine or would it be doable to cut certain areas out and reweld supports to house bolt holes?

And would a similar method work with the hole housing areas were it bolts onto the frame or maybe creating new bolt holes for it?

What are the key measure points and areas that would tell me if it's too bent to fit properly on a new frame period?
06-11-2018 02:04 PM
Hipster_G
Quote:
Originally Posted by One to Remember View Post
well I can tell talking to you you know a thing or two about this type of issue. you are right, I have damage to the door and I'm not sure if that's due to a straight hit from the curb or not. I swerved on the right turn after coasting about 25 feet when the breaks diddnt slow me enough. so I directly hit the curb with the bottom of my wheel and frame. the floor board is pushed up under the pedals but the bowing seems off. my feet face the new hump. I would think based off of my side swipe the hump ends would face the fire wall and the bottom of the seat. the two ends to the hump face the drivers side door and the passenger side door. I'm not sure if the drivers side door is damaged because its being wedged between the jams or if its coming out on top because impact occurred near its bottom.

what work other than to assure the struts line up would need to be done to make the car sit right on the new frame or not be relevant to the new frame doing its job? I guess I'm asking how do I isolate the warpage on the body frome effecting the new frame?

and basically with these panther frames I have a frame and ford has the cab bolted at several points? or is it welded together at certain points?

how much body damage can be worked on without the shop getting involved?
Without seeing it or pics it's really hard to say but by the sound of what you are describing it sounds as if there is possibly some door post/rocker damage and definitely some floor damage. Every situation is a little different depending on the damage and whether it can be pulled and repaired or cut and weld/replace. Stuff doesn't always pull as anticipated. The body is bolted to the frame. That's relatively straightforward, but all the body to frame bolts need to be back in and the door opening and closing properly to protect you in the event of another crash. The body is unitized welded together construction for the most part. If the door post is bent the chances of fixing it without going on a machine are slim to none. They are reinforced pretty heavily and it takes a bit of force to move them back. Frame time is not cheap and it's not uncommon to see $12-1500 for a used frame or $500 for a used door on an estimate when dealing with a salvage yard. Coupe parts might be a little more difficult to find and a little more pricey. I'm not privvy to what the shop pays but it gives an idea. If there's structural damage that is not repaired or otherwise half-a**ed you can end up dealing with water leaks, wind noise, squeaks rattles and the like and an unsafe vehicle that is of little to no value. It's not hard to end up upside down in one trying to save it so unless there is some kind of sentimental value that would make it worthwhile if you end up on that side it might be better to walk away or find a solid donor with paperwork and drop your running gear in it if you have to have that bodystyle. Not trying to discourage you but once a salvage yard takes a car apart to send you a frame in most cases it's yours whether you decide to complete the project or not and a used frame needs checked and at the minimum some basic measurements taken.
06-11-2018 12:18 PM
One to Remember well I can tell talking to you you know a thing or two about this type of issue. you are right, I have damage to the door and I'm not sure if that's due to a straight hit from the curb or not. I swerved on the right turn after coasting about 25 feet when the breaks diddnt slow me enough. so I directly hit the curb with the bottom of my wheel and frame. the floor board is pushed up under the pedals but the bowing seems off. my feet face the new hump. I would think based off of my side swipe the hump ends would face the fire wall and the bottom of the seat. the two ends to the hump face the drivers side door and the passenger side door. I'm not sure if the drivers side door is damaged because its being wedged between the jams or if its coming out on top because impact occurred near its bottom.

what work other than to assure the struts line up would need to be done to make the car sit right on the new frame or not be relevant to the new frame doing its job? I guess I'm asking how do I isolate the warpage on the body frome effecting the new frame?

and basically with these panther frames I have a frame and ford has the cab bolted at several points? or is it welded together at certain points?

how much body damage can be worked on without the shop getting involved?
06-11-2018 11:35 AM
Hipster_G Somebody that has access to a Hollander interchange or salvage yard should be able to tell you what fits what. Usually the same year spans. The frame swap itself is pretty straightforward. Easy with a lift and a bunch more work without without one. Get the body off and set the frames side by side and swap as much as you can as unitized assemblies. But, before you get started check the body over carefully for transfer damage. Make sure there are no buckles in the floor or body mounts moved around, door post out of place, buckle in the roof, etc. I've done many frame swaps as a body tech in a Ford dealership and can say 9.5 out of 10 times there is usually other damage and after the frame is under they usually have to go on a frame machine to straighten the body, replace aprons, core supports and the like.

Just make a careful assessment.
06-11-2018 10:40 AM
One to Remember
body frame swap on 1986 crown victoria

I was recently involved in an accident with my car and am still interested in repairing it. upon inspection at the tow lot I seen I had mangled the frame behind the front drivers wheel. due to the fact this is a rare coupe addition and not your typical four door ltd my question is how can I start removing the cab from the frame and what donor cars can I use to get another frame off of? I don't care if the frame is from an older ford because I want as much innerchange as possible. this is the panther frame and I know its common but I also kinow my ltd isn't as long due to being a coupe. if anyone has any experiences with this type of thing state what car you swapped and any issues you ran in to.

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