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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Suspension - Brakes - Steering> Rear Brake adjust - GM
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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-05-2018 06:21 PM
enjenjo
Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr View Post
I am sooo embarrassed . My mind must have wandered. ed: Seriously though, I usually proofread, because of typos. Of course you know I meant to say "Wipe off the excess."
Using the wife is possible, but very hazardous.
07-04-2018 10:57 AM
adantessr
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob37pont View Post
Thanks, that's some good information.
Are we getting a little confused here?!
" use generous amounts of synthetic grease on the male and female threads, and wife off excess after threading back together. Lube the non-threaded end also."
I am sooo embarrassed . My mind must have wandered. ed: Seriously though, I usually proofread, because of typos. Of course you know I meant to say "Wipe off the excess."
07-04-2018 05:53 AM
Bob37pont
Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr View Post
The design of the self adjusters is such that just applying the brakes firmly when backing up will turn the adjuster one click at a time. No need to use park brake. Many people don't apply the brakes firmly enough when backing up for the adjusters to work properly. The shoes shift differently when applying the brakes after driving forward. The brakes will NOT over tighten them selves. The brakes shoes require a certain amount of movement for the adjusters to work. The best thing I have found to use for lubing the adjusters when servicing the brakes is synthetic grease. It won't wash off with water. Completely disassemble the adjuster and wire wheel the male threads and use generous amounts of synthetic grease on the male and female threads, and wife off excess after threading back together. Lube the non-threaded end also.
Thanks, that's some good information.
Are we getting a little confused here?!
" use generous amounts of synthetic grease on the male and female threads, and wife off excess after threading back together. Lube the non-threaded end also."
07-03-2018 03:03 PM
adantessr The design of the self adjusters is such that just applying the brakes firmly when backing up will turn the adjuster one click at a time. No need to use park brake. Many people don't apply the brakes firmly enough when backing up for the adjusters to work properly. The shoes shift differently when applying the brakes after driving forward. The brakes will NOT over tighten them selves. The brakes shoes require a certain amount of movement for the adjusters to work. The best thing I have found to use for lubing the adjusters when servicing the brakes is synthetic grease. It won't wash off with water. Completely disassemble the adjuster and wire wheel the male threads and use generous amounts of synthetic grease on the male and female threads, and wife off excess after threading back together. Lube the non-threaded end also.
06-29-2018 11:00 AM
39 Sedan may have to look into that LOL
06-29-2018 10:58 AM
Bob37pont
Quote:
Originally Posted by 39 Sedan View Post
Mine are the same way but i did find open slots in the front side of the drum face, was told that if you get your rim spokes in right place you can make the adjustment without removing the rim and tire. Unfortunately mine do not line up to do that may have to investigate the knock out idea next winter. Typically i just pull the rim and tire and adjust them manually prior to any long road trips.
I don't have slots in the drums, originals may have had them, but I have a receipt that shows replacements were purchased. The air hammer with a flat chisel blade worked great!
06-29-2018 09:49 AM
39 Sedan Mine are the same way but i did find open slots in the front side of the drum face, was told that if you get your rim spokes in right place you can make the adjustment without removing the rim and tire. Unfortunately mine do not line up to do that may have to investigate the knock out idea next winter. Typically i just pull the rim and tire and adjust them manually prior to any long road trips.
06-28-2018 09:14 PM
Fast41dodge
Thanks for the info

I recently acquired a 97 Suburban and ran into the same issue. Now I know what I need to do, thanks.

06-26-2018 08:39 AM
PHWOARchild
Quote:
Originally Posted by 36 sedan View Post
The indented areas are called knock outs, usually a hammer and chisel knocks them out. They make rubber plugs for them.
Yup.. bash the crap out of them. I've done that for decades and never had one that wouldn't come out. I've used an impact hammer on them before. Usually taking the rear-most one out is all you need to do.


GM drums... watch out for the sharp ears on the backing plate, great place to catch your hand when adjusting brakes.
06-22-2018 10:19 AM
Bob37pont
Success!

The air chisel worked! The first side that I had beat upon came out a bit sloppy and needed some filing. The second side came out with a minimum of force & fuss. I'll guess it may have to do with the stamping pressure and the condition of the die.
The brake shoes looked new and had some glazing,I hit them with some 100 grit. The drums showed no wear at all. I'm guessing when the PO installed them he tightened the shoes so he could just get the drums on.
The adjusters took about 30 clicks to get tight!
I now have much less pedal travel.
Thanks for all the advice!
06-22-2018 09:09 AM
Tim C
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob37pont View Post
Those are my attempts to knock it out!
If you look at pic from the back side, the slot I didn't beat on, it appears there is a small weld in the center which I thought would allow the slot to open up & break off. I flipped the pic for correct orientation, you can just make out the smooth spot in the bottom middle.
I'll try the air hammer/chisel, but it had some pretty good hits from the big hammer!
Yea, I've never been able to simply knock them out either. I have bent the hell out of the backing plate trying. That's why they get torched now. I've had older axles that I could knock out with a chisel but nothing since the late 70s or 80s for sure.

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk
06-22-2018 08:07 AM
Bob37pont
Quote:
Originally Posted by 36 sedan View Post
JMHO, hard to tell by the picture, but to me it doesn't look like a weld. To me, it looks like someone is trying to knock it out with a screwdriver or air chisel. The second photo shows it is slightly bent inward at left edge. These can be difficult to knock out.
Those are my attempts to knock it out!
If you look at pic from the back side, the slot I didn't beat on, it appears there is a small weld in the center which I thought would allow the slot to open up & break off. I flipped the pic for correct orientation, you can just make out the smooth spot in the bottom middle.
I'll try the air hammer/chisel, but it had some pretty good hits from the big hammer!
06-22-2018 07:48 AM
36 sedan JMHO, hard to tell by the picture, but to me it doesn't look like a weld. To me, it looks like someone is trying to knock it out with a screwdriver or air chisel. The second photo shows it is slightly bent inward at left edge. These can be difficult to knock out.
06-22-2018 06:46 AM
Bob37pont
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim C View Post
Yes all the GM axles from the 80s on seem to be like that. At work we'll usually blow them out with the torch. Drilling 3 or 4 holes side by side and then cleaning it up with a carbide burr would be cleaner but take longer.

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk
Yeah, I'll drill them & clean the slots, already have the rubber plugs as I noticed the un-opened "knockout" on my initial inspection.
Drums & shoe material were replaced by P.O., just need to be adjusted. Receipt for those listed as "81 El Camino".
06-22-2018 06:35 AM
rip-tide Yes, just like found in a electrical box. However that one looks welded shut. Also in the location a brake spoon would have to be inserted in order to move the star wheel.

What do you think, not something the factory would have done? The knock out to the left looks more like what you have described.

pep

Quote:
Originally Posted by 36 sedan View Post
The indented areas are called knock outs, usually a hammer and chisel knocks them out. They make rubber plugs for them.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-50700-B...djustment+tool
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-29000-...SNBXJRADB57A8R
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