|07-05-2018 06:21 PM|
|07-04-2018 10:57 AM|
|07-04-2018 05:53 AM|
Are we getting a little confused here?!
" use generous amounts of synthetic grease on the male and female threads, and wife off excess after threading back together. Lube the non-threaded end also."
|07-03-2018 03:03 PM|
|adantessr||The design of the self adjusters is such that just applying the brakes firmly when backing up will turn the adjuster one click at a time. No need to use park brake. Many people don't apply the brakes firmly enough when backing up for the adjusters to work properly. The shoes shift differently when applying the brakes after driving forward. The brakes will NOT over tighten them selves. The brakes shoes require a certain amount of movement for the adjusters to work. The best thing I have found to use for lubing the adjusters when servicing the brakes is synthetic grease. It won't wash off with water. Completely disassemble the adjuster and wire wheel the male threads and use generous amounts of synthetic grease on the male and female threads, and wife off excess after threading back together. Lube the non-threaded end also.|
|06-29-2018 11:00 AM|
|39 Sedan||may have to look into that LOL|
|06-29-2018 10:58 AM|
|06-29-2018 09:49 AM|
|39 Sedan||Mine are the same way but i did find open slots in the front side of the drum face, was told that if you get your rim spokes in right place you can make the adjustment without removing the rim and tire. Unfortunately mine do not line up to do that may have to investigate the knock out idea next winter. Typically i just pull the rim and tire and adjust them manually prior to any long road trips.|
|06-28-2018 09:14 PM|
Thanks for the info
I recently acquired a 97 Suburban and ran into the same issue. Now I know what I need to do, thanks.
|06-26-2018 08:39 AM|
GM drums... watch out for the sharp ears on the backing plate, great place to catch your hand when adjusting brakes.
|06-22-2018 10:19 AM|
The air chisel worked! The first side that I had beat upon came out a bit sloppy and needed some filing. The second side came out with a minimum of force & fuss. I'll guess it may have to do with the stamping pressure and the condition of the die.
The brake shoes looked new and had some glazing,I hit them with some 100 grit. The drums showed no wear at all. I'm guessing when the PO installed them he tightened the shoes so he could just get the drums on.
The adjusters took about 30 clicks to get tight!
I now have much less pedal travel.
Thanks for all the advice!
|06-22-2018 09:09 AM|
Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk
|06-22-2018 08:07 AM|
If you look at pic from the back side, the slot I didn't beat on, it appears there is a small weld in the center which I thought would allow the slot to open up & break off. I flipped the pic for correct orientation, you can just make out the smooth spot in the bottom middle.
I'll try the air hammer/chisel, but it had some pretty good hits from the big hammer!
|06-22-2018 07:48 AM|
|36 sedan||JMHO, hard to tell by the picture, but to me it doesn't look like a weld. To me, it looks like someone is trying to knock it out with a screwdriver or air chisel. The second photo shows it is slightly bent inward at left edge. These can be difficult to knock out.|
|06-22-2018 06:46 AM|
Drums & shoe material were replaced by P.O., just need to be adjusted. Receipt for those listed as "81 El Camino".
|06-22-2018 06:35 AM|
Yes, just like found in a electrical box. However that one looks welded shut. Also in the location a brake spoon would have to be inserted in order to move the star wheel.
What do you think, not something the factory would have done? The knock out to the left looks more like what you have described.
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|