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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-13-2019 07:43 PM
77f150explorer Here's a pic of the engine back on june 28th, then another one from tonight. I removed the hood after work today so I can recondition the hinges and spring and such. It'll make the engine work easier tomorrow too. I'm going to replace a bunch of bolt on stuff like the ignition module, voltage regulator, starter relay, coil and plugs n wires, heater hoses and such.
I had a great friend named Don Hollingsworth years back, and Don was a River Rat back in Viet Nam. He taught me a lot of old-school rebuilding tricks, rust removal and prevention, paint, body work and engine knowledge and he helped me put a few old cars back together in life. A '72 skylark, an '81 Camaro Z28, an '81 Pontiac T/A. an 82 el camino, and my former truck, a 1979 F100.
He has since passed, and I'm no spring chicken anymore either, so I'm rebuilding this one for him and for me. I'll teach my 13 year old son the things he taught me while I'm fixing this one up, so ol' Don will live on through his teachings. I still have a few tools he passed along to me over the years too. So, Beers to Don, may his memory live on.
I'll post pics as she comes along.
07-13-2019 05:51 PM
77f150explorer The oil is water-free, but coffee black. The inside is mouse-free, and completely disassembled at this point.
As for the "keep it classic or hot-rod it up a bit" debate I was having, I'm opting for the latter. I thought a 77 F150 "explorer" would be worth bringing back as it was, but with some consideration, I've decided a nice red and black motif will be more to my liking. Red on top and black from the trim down. Going to go with bigger back tires, smaller fronts, and lower it a bit as well. I'm putting in a custom sound system and LED lights, along with customizing the grille and headlights a bit. I have a few wires under the hood that aren't hooked up to anything, so I'll be posting a thread in the right section with pics to try and sort that out.
I'll keep tabs of the progress with pics n such.
07-12-2019 07:23 AM
PHWOARchild Definitely get the carb off it to see if something has made a home in the intake manifold. Can't hurt to rebuild it along with cleaning the fuel system. I put an additional filter with an element (old red Holley canister type) right after the tank.


Pull the dipstick, look for water in the oil. If any, new oil & filter. Also the fuel filter in the carb if it has one. I'd replace the fuel pump, water pump, thermostat and master cylinder. Those are all likely to fail since it sat so long.


Look under the dash for mice nests, chewed up wires too.
07-02-2019 07:10 PM
77f150explorer Here's the inside. and some rust pics. The dash pad is perfect. The visors are too. Door cards are faded, but they're plastic so they can be brought back easy enough.... the carpet will be bought new, and the seat needs minor repair. The inside will be easy enough. I'll do new floor pans and some sound deadening here and there.
The original hubcaps are there but faded. the wheels are rusty but can be resurrected.
07-01-2019 07:07 PM
77f150explorer I'm going to bring the old girl back to life one way or the other, I'm just debating on returning it to stock once complete, or customizing it a bit, like wheels, interior stuff, paint, etc.
It's only missing the original hood ornament and 1 piece of body trim..... Sticker kits can be gotten, I just don't know yet.
If the drivetrain has any issues, I'm putting a Toyota 2JZGE in it from my 96 Lexus, but I'm hopeful that with a new fuel tank/system and some ignition work it'll be a runner. we will see.
Today after work the interior was removed to facilitate the floor patches.
More to come.
06-30-2019 07:31 PM
LATECH Get it running.Drive it first.See if it does well. If it does, then doll her up.


Dont get busy taking it apart thinking of a restore.At least not yet.

Evaluate the truck, how the engine runs, oil pressure, smoking, knocking etc.

Transmission operation as well.Whining, late shifts shift flare ups etc.

Does the rear end run quiet, is it loose at the pinion.Do the wheel bearings whine,howl or growl etc.

All stuff that is good to know so you can look specifically for those issues as you do a teardown.

I would get it up and running as a "survivor" and see where you are at with it as aforementioned.Then decide whether or not to "restore" or simply repair.
06-30-2019 04:36 PM
77f150explorer
Quote:
Originally Posted by dusterdude3404 View Post
Its what us old guys used in the 70's

Sent from my LG-US601 using Tapatalk
Hey! I resemble that remark!. XD
we used 8-track tapes and bell-bottoms too.
Seriously though, ATF/ a cup of Diesel, I've heard several "flush" remedy's , but I'm just going to drain whats there, re-fill it, and after running it for 20 minutes or so ( once it's running, that is ) , I'll drain and fill again.
I bumped the motor a few times today with the plugs out and it turns freely. I removed the grille and headlights, and knocked out a couple of small dents today.
I'm still Torn between getting the mechanicals in order and leaving it as a survivor, or going for a more in-depth and pricey restore.
06-30-2019 11:28 AM
55_327 Hey, I'm one of those guys!

I don't remember doing that, but I do remember running straight 30W non-detergent oil in a 283 because some older guys (in their early 20s) recommended it.
06-30-2019 07:41 AM
dusterdude3404 Its what us old guys used in the 70's

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06-30-2019 06:52 AM
55_327
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillPac View Post
I would plan on two oil changes; first drain what's in there and install new filter with new oil, including a quart of ATF. Run it awhile, then drain it, install another new filter, and fill with new oil.
Wow! What is your reasoning for using ATF?

Found this on the Amsoil website. And, yes, they sell ATF and engine flush products. Underlined phrases are mine.

ATF is not formulated for use in automotive engines and shouldn’t be used to replace a traditional engine-flush or cleaning product for several reasons.

First, the detergency, or cleaning power, of ATF is much less than motor oil. ATF isn’t exposed to the same levels of combustion byproducts or contaminants as motor oil, so they are designed with much less detergency. In most cases, adding ATF to motor oil reduces cleaning power. Instead, ATFs have elevated levels of friction modifiers and other additives that help protect gears and clutches.

Second, ATF can disrupt the engine oil formulation and reduce its effectiveness. A good motor oil is a fine balance of base oils and additives designed to work together to fight wear, reduce friction, prevent deposits and slowly dissolve accumulated sludge in older engines. The cleaning power of motor oil is designed to work gradually over subsequent oil changes and not necessarily all at once. Adding a foreign substance to the oil disrupts oil chemistry and possibly negatively affects wear protection, oil life or more.

Finally, ATF can alter the viscosity of the oil, reducing wear protection.
06-29-2019 10:37 AM
77f150explorer Here's a peek under the hood. I'll do some disassembly and re-wiring where its needed. Not too bad for 42 years old though.
06-29-2019 05:19 AM
BillPac
Prep

I would plan on two oil changes; first drain what's in there and install new filter with new oil, including a quart of ATF. Run it awhile, then drain it, install another new filter, and fill with new oil.
06-29-2019 04:21 AM
75gmck25 If you have all the plugs out, a compression test is fairly simple. I think Autozone and Advanced Auto Parts allow you to borrow, the tester, but I'm not positive.

- Put vice grips on the rubber fuel line to stop the flow (avoid flooding the engine).
- Screw the compression tester into #1 cylinder
- Hold or block the carburetor linkage completely open to allow maximum air into the cylinder; this is an important step
- Crank the engine over with the starter and look for max compression. Its usually only about 7-10 strokes. Note how many times you let it turn over to get the max on that cylinder (7 for example), and write down the value (130 lbs, etc.).
- Check every cylinder the same way, letting it turn over the same number of times.
Now compare the compression values to see if they are all within about 10% of each other.

If compression is low on one or two cylinders, squirt a little oil into the cylinder and repeat the test. If it then comes up to the same as other cylinders, the oil ring is not sealing. Exceptionally low compression on any cylinder could also mean a valve that is also not sealing due to being burned, out of adjustment, etc.

Bruce
06-28-2019 07:01 PM
77f150explorer Thanks, guys.
I don't have a way to get a compression test on her here at home, unless there's a home method I'm unaware of.
I pulled the plugs today- they were all black, but not caked up bad- definitely not tan, though. Carb was running rich , I'm hoping.
The plugs were Autolite 25 and the wires were 8mm Motorcraft. I'm going to pull and rebuild the carb, drain the tank and install the new pickup tube it came with, along with new fuel lines and filters.
I'll see what the weekend brings!
06-27-2019 07:17 PM
LATECH Compression test first.
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