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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-24-2019 12:08 PM
fcastro I was able to actually carefully separate the wires. I sprayed them with a a bit wd-40 and then just carefully worked each wire and got them all separated. I left the twister pair as is. I then used Tesa's High Heat Harness Tape and wrapped them and then put them in a plastic loom

I wanted to take the wires out of the connector that connects to the camshaft position sensor, but I can't figure out how to depin this. My depinning tool kit has a double prong tool that I stuck into the top and bottom holes but the wire isn't releasing so I am not sure what the heck to do now. I want to make sure the both ends have no corrosion as my code popped back on.

Attachment 447761
09-24-2019 11:58 AM
70BossRanchero Up towards the top of your picture, I do see a twisted pair of wires, blue and maybe tan. I don't think it's worth trying to separate those wires, your liable to damage the insulation.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
09-19-2019 01:59 PM
fcastro Hey guys so I took off today to see if I can figure out what my wiring issue is. I picked up some new looms and was going to retape my harness near that area. But part of the harness is super stiff and the wires are not coming loose from each other from the engine heat. All these wires were taped from the factory.

Any ideas on how to loosen up the wiring? Or should I just leave it as is and retape and loom them?

Attachment 447659
09-11-2019 03:53 PM
fcastro 70Boss interesting point! I'll keep that in mind, the wires are currently run in plastic loom and I believe High Heat Harness Tape inside but I can't recall the tape part. I will inspect this thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by 70BossRanchero View Post
The wires to some sensors, and I would think that the crank sensor would be one of them, is shielded from electromagnetic radiation. They either twist the pair of wires together, or cover them with a braid, or foil which is grounded on one end only. I would open the harness at the sensor end and see if the wires are shielded or twisted together and match what the factory did.

Otherwise you could run new wires and introduce wierd voltage traces that the computer will notice and try to interpret causing new driveability problems.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
09-10-2019 10:44 AM
70BossRanchero The wires to some sensors, and I would think that the crank sensor would be one of them, is shielded from electromagnetic radiation. They either twist the pair of wires together, or cover them with a braid, or foil which is grounded on one end only. I would open the harness at the sensor end and see if the wires are shielded or twisted together and match what the factory did.

Otherwise you could run new wires and introduce wierd voltage traces that the computer will notice and try to interpret causing new driveability problems.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
09-10-2019 10:34 AM
fcastro Thanks for the wealth of info guys! spent a lot of time looking last night and I couldn't find an answer and I can't believe I am the only one who is trying to replace brittle wiring.

I'll take photos this evening when I get back from work of the connectors. The car is an 07 saab so I think that would make the connectors gm. Saab uses a very different style of plastic locking system but I hope the pin holders inside are the common gm type.
09-10-2019 07:14 AM
joe_padavano Kind of hard to provide detailed answers since you didn't tell us the year and model, but there are many vendors who sell replacement connectors and pigtails:

https://www.repairconnector.com/

https://www.waytekwire.com/products/1391/Pigtails/

https://findpigtails.com/

There are a number of Delphi/GM wire connector systems. Weatherpack and Metri-pack are the most common. Within Metri-pack there are at least three or four different series depending on current carrying requirements. Waytek Wire sells the terminals, but you need the special (and expensive) crimping tool to properly install them on the wire. Some of these terminals actually are "pull in" type, where you push the wire through the connector body, crimp the terminal on the front side of the connector, then pull the wire and connector into the body.
09-09-2019 11:50 PM
cerial Trip to the pick and pull will get you a handfull of wires cheap.

I often grab connectiors for things like o2 sensors, tps, iac, 130/144 amp alternatiors and other common gm parts while there.

The pins for the ecm are easy to find but do vary by manufacturer. That being said pins are GENERALLY all the same so if your looking for one just find the same harness and snip a few off at the ecm then get the plug along with the sensor.

Most places will let you have the sensor and plug for little($3-5) to nothing depending on who is working. Then you just saved $20+. By being able to throw that thing in a shoebox in the trunk and do a parking lot repair you also save on a potential tow bill.

Ok you have your new2 you pins and new 2 you connections. Go to the auto parts store and buy the same gauge wire. This eliminates any questions about a short from A to B. Just make sure to route it inside the harness as much as possible. Your old wire is not used just shrink the ends in case there is a back feed of voltage. Now you need to be careful here as some times one wire will split off. These are usually power and ground connections though. The sensor wires that are not power and ground based OFTEN go straight from the computer to the sensor. Check your harness.
If you have doubts then you can reuse the existing old wire just adding new tips and connections. But as a rule I try to avoid this as a majority of the time the issue is within the harness due to something being pulled or water collecting.

Once the wires are run we get to soldier the ends.

I like this guy. He just does good videos. I learned a few neat tricks by watching this. It covers proper soldering methods very well.

https://youtu.be/Zu3TYBs65FM

Get your connections and such around then soldier them up.
If you want bran new connections then your really dealership bound. You could try aftermarket but your rolling the dice there and should read the real world reviews for your model.

My cheap butt has never had an issue using parts from a yard. No question about fit or longevity. If you have something unique like a V-8-6-4 system your trying to run with modern computers that you cant find in a yard then getting advise on parts sources from brand even model in some cases specific forums is recommended.
09-09-2019 10:41 PM
fcastro
Correct Way to Replace a Couple of Wires

Hi everyone,

So I have a wiring question. I have been having a wiring issue between my camshaft position sensor and the ECU (car runs very hot underhood and many of the looms are dried up). Basically somewhere one of the wires is either brittle or causing the check engine light to fire off because of signal issues. I have replaced the sensor and wanted to just run a few new wires inside a loom to the ECU since I don't see anything using my eyeballs.

I know how to take the pins out of the plastic connectors, but what I can't figure out is how to get new matching pins for said connectors. Or is there some other process to replacing the wire and just using the connector already there?

The car's wiring harness if labeled delphi but I can't seem to find a catalog with images of their connectors.

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