|07-15-2003 01:51 PM|
|07-14-2003 07:56 PM|
|adtkart||I am totalluy against this type of vehicle being put on the road, because it is extremely dangerous, specially done by someone that does not know what they are doing. Atleast, do the welding properly. But welds with a gap for penetration, are a recipe for disaster. Troy is right. The strongest joint for this type of work is a lap with double welds. Plug weld on the laps and weld solid at the ends.|
|07-13-2003 01:39 PM|
A double weld on a lap joint is the strongest joint. hth
|07-11-2003 08:52 PM|
I say go for it. Have you really actually looked to see how few spot welds there are that hold your Camaro together?
You might consider taking the panels apart at the joints (drill out spot welds) and then put the good pieces back together.....use a brass block to back up the hole and do a plug weld.
Or if you are going to cut across and then mig weld, leave a small gap (1/16" ?) so that you get 100% penetration between the panels.
....just my $.02
|07-10-2003 10:02 PM|
|dovaka||i didnt get into the bracing to much at first because it wasnt really part of my initial question but i did plan on wleding the doors shut and bracing it in there and i was going to weld more bracing in under neath as well as the subframes together and recently ive been considering adding a roll bar sort of like in a ac cobra where it comes up over each person and loops back down but i havent really decided on that yet i jsut know that iam going to adda crap load of bracing into the car once its put back together|
|07-10-2003 09:35 AM|
2nd gen is also a unit body. The subframe just supports the front suspension. It's supported by the unit body, the unit body is not supported by the subframe. It's short! The body structure, of which the roof is a big part (think roof trusses, like in a house -- would you cut the braces out of one and expect it to do the job?). Welding the "subframes" together won't be enough (the rear rails are directly part of the unit body). You'll need to build more frame into the car, or use a six point roll bar/cage. Another idea, since you're making a little roadster, is to weld the doors shut with a little extra bracing inside. You're taking the roof off anyway, may as well make it a climb over! That alone will add a substantial amount of rigidity. I plan on doing this to a car -- welded shut doors and a roll bar with six point mounting -- but the unitbody I'm using has continuous rails front to rear anyway.
I've driven plenty of cars welded together as you mention, even a 2nd gen T/A. If done correctly it's not a problem. Apparently there were a lot of hack jobs done in the UK so they made it illegal. Smaller cars aren't as sturdy as bigger US makes either, so it would be harder to do with the smaller ones. You need a good level floor to work from for measuring as well. Cut the windshield posts in the center on both. You may need to put some reinforcement inside the post also, and in the rocker panels as that is the main longitudinal support area.
|07-06-2003 09:58 PM|
|dovaka||this is a 2nd gen and is a subframe 3rd gen are uni body i wouldnt do it to one of those either i do plan on bracing it alot but im also removing alot from the car and replacing it with fiberglass or just leaving it off but as the shell sits right now me and 2 of my friends can pick it up off the ground and move it around|
|07-03-2003 05:28 PM|
I only know of one person that made a convertible out of a 3rd gen f-car and he was adament he'd never do it again. The car is so heavy so ALOT of bracing is required, which of course makes it even heavier. Of course, it still wasn't enough. Think about the cowl shake you've got WITH the roof on.
Another option, a bit safer, is to build a (modified) Pro-stock/sportsman chassis using original suspension and then attach the body. that way you've got a strong frame in case of an accident and the weakness of the body is irrelevant.
Just my .02, no matter what, good luck!
|06-29-2003 09:58 PM|
|dovaka||the car has to get cut regardless because im making it shorter so even if i just swaped the subframe over i would still need to weld it|
|06-29-2003 01:29 AM|
|dinger||why not bolt your front subframe to the z body? If these are the same generation, everything should bolt up between the 2 cars.|
|06-28-2003 10:41 PM|
|dovaka||i also said that i plan on renforcing the frame to compensate the removal of the roof|
|06-26-2003 08:27 PM|
|adtkart||I cannot understand why anyone would want to try something like that. To do a "clip" like that is bad enough, but to remove the top also is definitely looking for major trouble. I sure hope that you keep that death trap up in the north east. I'm sure with the roads up there the way they are, and the rust problems from the winters, it will really be a treat.|
|06-26-2003 04:09 PM|
HI DOVAKA, I HOPE YOUR WELDING MATE IS **** HOT AT HIS JOB,BECAUSE IF NOT YOUR GONNA GET YOURSELF INTO A LOT OF BOTHER!
IN THE U.K. WHAT YOUR ATTEMPTING IS TOTALLY ILLEGAL.
IT"S CALLED "CUT-N-SHUNT",YOU TAKE A GOOD FRONT END OF A REAR END SMASH VEHICLE + WELD IT TO A GOOD REAR END OF A FRONT END SMASH VEHICLE! IN THE U.K. THERES BEEN A LOT OF DEATHS CAUSED BY THE VEHICLES JUST SNAPPING IN TWO ON THE SLIGHTEST IMPACT.
IT"S GONE THAT WAY NOW THEY"VE BEEN OUTLAWED,THERE"S NO WAY YOU COULD EVER GET THE VEHICLE INSURED
SURELY OVER THERE IN THE STATES YOU CAN PICK UP A DOZEN DECENT BODYSHELLS,WITHOUT RESORTING TO CANNIBALISM (CARNIBLISM THAT IS)
THERE"S BEEN CASES OVER HERE OF VEHICLES DRIVING AROUND WITH IDENTICAL REGISTRATIONS,WHEN THE VEHICLES ARE CHECKED OVER BY THE"STOLEN CAR SQUADS" THERE FOUND TO BE "CUT-N-SHUNTS AND TAKEN OFF THERE OWNERS(WHO MANY HAVE BOUGHT THEM UNKNOWINGLY AND DESTROYED! + THE OWNER COMES AWAY WITH NO CAR + NO REFUNDS!
DON"T DO IT MAN, COULD BE YOUR SONS SON WHO TURNS UP AT YOUR HOUSE ONE DAY AND SAYS" HEY GRANDAD COMIN FOR A RIDE IN MY MOTOR"?.. ..................PHILPKP
|06-25-2003 09:38 PM|
ok to answer some questions in no real order
yes i plan on leaving the roof off
i forgot to mention that im going to have the subframe welded together to sufficently take the force from the roof being removed
im going to cut the car and tack weld it together and my friend who is a pro welder is going to make all the real welds on the car as i dont trust my welding ability that much
any more questions and ill be back to answer them ive been spending most of the night out side measuring the cars and finding the best spot to cut them as to not go threw anything major on it
|06-25-2003 08:28 PM|
There`s nothing complacated about what you want to do. if you have never done anything like this before you should go snopping at some body shops that do that.
I try to do all the lap welds that I can,for added strength.
double check all measurments,likes been said leave the doors on,this will help alighn every thing.
You said something about removing the top,are you going to leave the top off? If so you`ll have to incorparate some bracing in the floor area.
If you are going to put the top back on ,don`t take it off,leave it attached at the windshield,this will make the job a lot easyer.
Hope this helps good luck;
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