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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-26-2010 04:27 AM
EOD Guy Thanks, I'm going to swap in a LS1 etc........ building a punch sheet. Trying to make up my mind on going with a painless system or holding off etc....
11-25-2010 10:43 PM
kc8oye on a GM A-body it's easier if you just cut the brown wire at the regulator and bring it over to the alternator, that's the idiot light.
that goes to the terminal furthest from the battery post on the back.
then jumper the other terminal straight to the battery post and you are done.
I would recomend replacing the charging wire with at least 10ga.. 8 would be better if you go with a CS130.


I've had a CS130 lockup.. on my 86 astro van.. it started.. but then shrieked like crazy and had smoke rolling off the belt. thankfully, even tho the astro used a poly-v belt for the alternator, it was still the old style 3-belt design, and the other 2 belts ran around the waterpump, so I just took the alternator belt off and drove home I still use a basic v-belt on the monte carlo which means it slips a bit.. but that's fine for now


FYI.. I got my information backwards on that first post I made.. the terminal nearest the battery post is the SENSE wire.. not the light... guess that's what I get for posting at 3am when I can't sleep.. lol.. sorry
11-25-2010 09:54 PM
Schurkey
Quote:
Originally Posted by EOD Guy
What was involved in converting over from ext to internal regulator?
Removing a 10DN (external regulator) alternator and installing a 10- or 12SI is a matter of two home-made jumper wires, the internal regulated alternator, and a $3.50 alternator pigtail available at any parts store. NAPA has it as p/n ECH VRC148
(The color codes are wrong for our older vehicles, the red wire "should" be blue, and the white wire might originally be white, black, or black with white tracer.)



11-25-2010 08:32 PM
EOD Guy What was involved in converting over from ext to internal regulator?
11-25-2010 03:22 AM
Schurkey Gotta be careful with the CS130. Rear bearing failure from overheating was epidemic. When the alternator locks up, you won't be able to start the engine without taking the belt off--starter isn't powerful enough to crank the engine when the alternator locks up. Sometimes they'll even shred the belt.

I always considered the CS part of CS130 to have the same meaning as the "CS" in the movie American Graffiti.

Far as I know, the CS144 doesn't have the same reputation EXCEPT when installed on the 3.4 DOHC engine in Luminas and the other "W" bodies--and that's due to engine compartment heat/alternator location, not defective alternator design.
11-25-2010 02:36 AM
kc8oye on an internal regulated alternator, of the two small terminals in the side. the terminal nearest the battery post on the back is the warning light terminal

I converted my 72 monte from external to a basic internal 10si, up to a 12si ,back down to a 10si, and finally up to a CS130 series alt...
just put a CS130 in it and forget the rest, you will be much happier
once I upgraded to dual electric fans, the si series alt's just can't produce enough output at idle to keep up with the demands of the HVAC, lights, electric fans, rear blower motor, stereo.. etc.
it was fine while moving.. but at an idle... voltage would just drop off down to 11v and that wasn't a good thing
the CS130 charges like gangbusters at idle. and I've heard the CS144's are even better.
11-25-2010 02:07 AM
Schurkey There's a two-terminal connector on either the internal-regulated 10- or 12-SI style, or the external regulated 10DN alternator.

External regulator connectors are side-by-side parallel like this: ||

Internal regulator connectors are in-line parallel like this: - -
11-21-2010 03:15 PM
bigdog7373
Quote:
Originally Posted by crownver
Hey Bigdog,

That's a great diagram! I cut and pasted it to Word to save it. Hope that's OK.
That's cool, i just found it on the internet.
Just to clear it up, the top one is internally regulated and the bottom is external. The writing didn't show up in the place i wanted it too. lol.
11-21-2010 02:01 PM
T-bucket23
Quote:
Originally Posted by 75gmck25
The stock charge wire on my truck, which came with a 63 amp 10si alternator, is a 10 gauge charge wire with a 14 gauge fusible. 8 gauge charge wire is better, but 8 gauge is much harder to find than 10 gauge wire in most of the parts stores.

During a trip to the pick and pull I got a section of 8 gauge wire charge with a 12 gauge fusible link from a 90's GM pickup, and replaced my stock wire. There are a lot of these trucks in the junkyard, and they charge you very little for the wire.

Bruce
10 would be ok for a 63 amp but I get concerned that if a larger alternator was installed you could be on the edge. My thought with wiring is the bigger the better in most cases. Fusing the alternator wire is a good idea as well as it has full battery current available on it.
11-21-2010 09:07 AM
75gmck25 The stock charge wire on my truck, which came with a 63 amp 10si alternator, is a 10 gauge charge wire with a 14 gauge fusible. 8 gauge charge wire is better, but 8 gauge is much harder to find than 10 gauge wire in most of the parts stores.

During a trip to the pick and pull I got a section of 8 gauge wire charge with a 12 gauge fusible link from a 90's GM pickup, and replaced my stock wire. There are a lot of these trucks in the junkyard, and they charge you very little for the wire.

Bruce
11-20-2010 04:02 PM
jdub45 Thanks Chet!

I just looked again and it might be 8 gauge. In any event, I'm going to re-wire with 8 gauge so I'll know for sure.
11-20-2010 03:57 PM
T-bucket23
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdub45
I've searched and can't find an exact answer...I have no confidence on how I've wired my alternator.

I have a '41 Ford truck with a Chevy 327 motor with a very basic wiring harness (and self made). Here's what I have. Forgive me this is my first post and I'll do my best to get it right.

I have the main wire from the battery wire directly to the starter lug (I'd guess 2 gauge wire).

Then a 12 gauge wire from the starter lug to lug on the 3 way alternator (I honestly don't no if it's internally or externally regulated...I'd guess internally).

I have a "wake-up wire" from the ign on terminal to the #1 blade on the alternator.

I've left the #2 lug unhooked.

I've had both the battery and the alternator tested and they both have passed their respective tests at the auto parts store.

The problem: I have no confidence it's wired correctly and the battery doesn't seem to be charging. I had a battery that would not turn over the motor yesterday...nothing was left on. Just want to know if it's wired right?

Thanks in advance!
12 gauge wire to the main stud on the alternator is NOT BIG ENOUGH. You need 8 gauge. That alternator is capable of at least 60 amps and that 12 gauge will burn up. It would be a shame to burn your car over 5 bucks worth of wire. You also need to connect the number 2 terminal to a switched source somewhere near the fuse block if you want the alternator run run at peak performance.
11-20-2010 02:42 PM
jdub45 Bigdog,

Thanks for you help! I am more confident I have the alternator wired correctly...now I'm on to wiring the coil through the resistor. Keep your fingers crossed that I got that wired right!
11-17-2010 08:08 PM
mud.man.rj
resistor

I think 40 ohm. Nice diagrams.
11-17-2010 07:55 PM
65ELCMO
Quote:
Originally Posted by DOCTOR DC
thats your excitor wire(wake up wire) the resistor or the indicator light must be inline or your alt. will not put out. One or the other must be used, but both are not needed. The factory used both in case the bulb burnt out. the bulb will be lit until the alt. starts charging then will go out.
Oh Daa. I forgot that. I have a light. I guess the resistor threw me off. If I don't want to use a light what size resistor do I use?
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