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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-03-2017 07:19 PM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1putt View Post
I read that thread and there seemed to be some conflicting statements and why I was getting a bit confused.

Nevertheless, I am taking that direction. I have applied OSPHO and will let it dry at least 24 hours-kept inside and will probably spray the primer next weekend. Will look into the SPI sounds like the way to go.

What do you mean there's a little more to it on the Ospho subject?
If you want complete directions of how I've used Ospho for the last 40 years just PM me. You'll get super great adhesion with no issues but you have to follow my directions closely.I really don't care who says what about it they are wrong. if they have problems then they are simply not doing it right, end of story. You wouldn't believe how many different ways this procedure gets screwed up One guy even primed when the ospho was still wet. Come on man.
08-14-2017 05:54 AM
addicted
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
PM me any time.
I've found that a few of the main reasons people have trouble with Ospho is
#1 they just spray it on and walk away.
#2 no scrubbing.
#3 no wiping off. a sure way to screw it up. remember this stuff dries and the more you leave on the harder it is to get off. So wipe off all the access and let a thin coating dry and your good to go until your ready prep for epoxy.
PPG hasn't made a good epoxy primer since DP-40 look into SPI epoxy primer its amazing primer.
Thanks. The only reason I haven't ordered SPI yet is the supposed benefit of using one line of paint from the bottom up. Supposed warranty, etc. I called Axalta, and the tech guy said Nason or Chromax would work for me bit stick with one or the other. Don't mix. My local Axalta store only stocks Transtar epoxy, so that doesn't make me feel good. Thus, I was considering seeing what the Place that sells PPG sells. I always do research before going to a paint store so i can know as much or more than they do about what they try to sell me. I'm about ready to go with SPI.
08-13-2017 07:02 AM
deadbodyman PM me any time.
I've found that a few of the main reasons people have trouble with Ospho is
#1 they just spray it on and walk away.
#2 no scrubbing.
#3 no wiping off. a sure way to screw it up. remember this stuff dries and the more you leave on the harder it is to get off. So wipe off all the access and let a thin coating dry and your good to go until your ready prep for epoxy.
PPG hasn't made a good epoxy primer since DP-40 look into SPI epoxy primer its amazing primer.
08-11-2017 08:21 PM
addicted Hello all. Just joined Hot Rodders as a result of this thread. I was searching for info on PPG epoxy primer. Deadbodyman, I have been playing around with Ospho as well as Eastwood afterblast. I may be PM'ing you for your thoughts on effective usage. I'll log on with my PC some time soon and add some info about my current and past projects. Easier to type than on my phone!
01-31-2017 05:27 AM
deadbodyman I love reading these old posts .
Im still using SPI epoxy and as time always tells everything I said in my posts still holds true. Although I have tried rinsing my Ospho and it also works, I still prefer sanding it before priming even though its a lot more work. It just works better for me.
Barry STILL don't know what a manicure is and still answers the phone when I call for some straight information sometimes I just call to say hello and tell him how much I appreciate him and his products.
Asshats are still asshats and my car still aint done. but the ospho and SPI epoxy I did on it 10 yrs ago its still holding tight. The test of time tells all.
01-30-2017 07:18 PM
camarodriver67
PPG Epoxy Primer

I have used the Omni epoxy primer (MP171) before. I didn't have any trouble with it spraying. Maybe because the temperature was in the 80's. I did have a problem with sanding it. But I found out the longer you waited it would sand better. The product info sheet says the drying time is 15 minutes. I see the induction time is the same. I let mine sit at least 30 minutes before spraying. The pot life was 8 hrs. I always sprayed 2 coats. I have tried the SPI also. I was surprised how good the panels looked after spraying. It looked as if they were sprayed with white paint instead of primer. They were smooth feeling when dry. Man! I just noticed how old these post were.
03-03-2012 04:21 PM
moparmusclecars DP40 has always been good stuff, but the main thing i never liked about it is that it does not sand worth a crap! Yeah, I gotta try the epoxy primer that Barry has.
03-03-2012 06:05 AM
deadbodyman Its been a while but DP-40 used to be my brand ,nothing wrong with it as far as protection goes but the SPI has a few distinct advantages over it.
02-27-2012 11:20 AM
moparmusclecars
Omni Epoxy

I have personally used the Omni epoxy primer after switching from regular PPG DP40 (at that time). While the Omni epoxy is suppose to be close to regular DP, it is not. We used it in the shop for about one and a half years, and actually at that time, had a few cars come back for peel due to the epoxy primer. I threw the rest in the garbage and went back to regular PPG DP. Never had another issue. After finding out about SPI's epoxy, I am going to call them and get me some of that stuff. I am sold on PPG DP, and we have done several tests using it over the past twenty years or so. One test was we sprayed some black iron, threw it outside the shop and left it. We would pick it up from time to time and check it out. Five years later that DP was still on the part protecting it from rust (corrosion). This was through harse winters too. DP reminds me of the product (Zinc Chromate Primer)we used when I was with the USAF as a Airframe repairman. Even smells the same. I would never use Omni epoxy again. I will be trying SPI's epoxy though.
02-26-2012 10:23 AM
deadbodyman LOL,If thats your reply ,heres an example and if you want I'll go back and copy and paste the responses including yours...
I asked about the wet sand paper grits like P400 and what its equivalent would have been before the new system came out, maybe a conversion chart.....
All the responses were about how to sand and how every member there sanded and what grits THEY used. One member with a well stroked ego even stated he had no need to block with 400 (I guess because he was SO good) the point is, everyone jumped in and explained the proper way to sand according to them ...no one answered the question (maybe because none of them with the exception of you ,were around when the system changed) I ended up getting the chart right here at HR.
They may be helpful to a newbie but its been my experience that theres ALWAYS several ways to do every job....thinking there is only one way to do a job....now thats absurd. I compare it to H.A.M.B and how they all think alike
02-26-2012 09:27 AM
shine hvac phil , i'm sure all the painters on the spi site will be glad to know how much you appreciated the help they gave you over the last year doing your mustang. right up til jan of this year you were still posting asking for help and getting it. nice to see your true colors cowboy .

mike, your post is so absurd there is no point in replying to it.
02-26-2012 05:28 AM
HVAC Phil I'm a rookie, i've used the PPG and Omni epoxy. They suck compared to the SPI. Try sanding the PPG stuff after a MONTH, it will gum up just like you sprayed it 2hrs ago. No matter what you do, PPG will not lay smooth, even if you reduce it twice what it calls for, still peely. SPI, lays smooth, sands super easy.

As far as the SPI site that Deadbodyman refferred to, it is tough to post over there. I made one comment about how a "dealer painter" did a hack job on a friends car, they jumped all over me, PM'd me about it. All i was saying that if you don't take pride in your work, don't do it just to make a buck. Makes all the others in the business "seem" like hacks to others outside the business. It stereotypes "all" painters which, isn't true. Now if i have an SPI question, i just call Barry directly. He is always helpful and guides you thru the process.
02-25-2012 12:54 PM
deadbodyman Other than using the Ospho you pretty much did everything wrong and WILL have a problem later.....The "improper" use of acid products is THE #1 cause of paint failures......PM me and I'll run through the procedure...a tried and true procedure that's served me well for over 25 yrs. and thats an open invitation to anyone that wants to try it to remove rust or protect bare metal from surface rust.

For the most part the spi site is a bunch of PAINTERS playing follow the leader...just mention Ospho and every single one will jump on you and none of them have actually used it..... properly anyways....It is an SPI "USER" site
started by users...almost a religion.check it out.... with a grain of salt....

anyone that hasn't used Ospho (specifically) should probably give their fingers a rest...when they start saying how it has to be neutralized,it wont work with SPI epoxy or Bla bla bla,etc, I know for a fact they haven't used it..they just confuse the issue with misinformation....they do sound like they know what they're talking about and a few even have as much experiance as me (since 75)...so I understand all the confusion..a few even had me wondering if somehow I was wrong and I've just been lucky for 25yrs and hundreds of cars,so did all the tests everyone suggested and a few of my own ,It passed every one....As much as I love SPI epoxy and universal clear,they'll always be my second favorite product, I just cant do without the Ospho...SPI as a company however ,IS #1 there's simply none better in this business....I dont play politics I just call it like I see it...
02-25-2012 11:52 AM
mitmaks PPG paint is overpriced. You can get more for your money with other brands ie SPI, sherwin williams, etc.
02-25-2012 10:28 AM
shine i would suggest you go and read this .

http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?8-What-every-new-painter-must-read!
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