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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-29-2020 03:28 PM
John long For some reason that big block did not make it easy to get this linkage out but I made it.

If I drill the clutch pedal and lever lower the bracket has to be modified for clearance. I was afraid to do it in the car so I fought the battle to get it out.

I plugged the hole where the rod did run and added a reinforcement for clearance and strength. I think I now have the clearance I need to move the rod down and increase the travel at the clutch throwout arm.


07-29-2020 08:44 AM
John long There was just enough time to jack the car up and pull the clutch pedal yesterday but it looks like re-drilling the clutch pedal is the way to go.

The brace nside the firewall is not nearly as much of a concern as I remembered it would be.

Much of the strength of the firewall comes from the angle where the toe board meets it as well as the front body mount that joins at that same point.

I circled the hole in this picture where the clutch rod comes through the firewall so you can see that where the inner brace ends the outer body mount begins. The actually overlap about an inch or so.

The real stress from the clutch pedal is on the steering column and pedal bracket. They are tied in at the floor, master cylinder, and a brace that goes up to the top of the firewall. Anyway, the plan is to redrill the Z-bar down about 1/2” and the pedal about 1”, reworking the inner brace and filling the old hole. I hope to pull the brace and z-bar today.

07-27-2020 04:40 PM
John long Good news! By the time I got to the end of my street, the gas gauge jumped up to 1/3 tank. There must have been some corrosion on the sender contacts after sitting all winter.

In any case, I’m a happy camper.

07-27-2020 03:35 PM
cgates Sounds like the sender float sunk, All the ones I have seen lately are crap.
07-27-2020 12:25 PM
Too Many Projects Uh, huh, neglect her and now she's pissed...
07-27-2020 12:17 PM
John long You guys wonít believe this. I went down to clean the roadster and the has gauge is not working. Now that is strange. I poured 5 gallons in it and it is still on empty......Go figure. 🙄

07-27-2020 11:27 AM
Too Many Projects Is it fixed yet ????
Nag, nag, nag...
07-27-2020 11:11 AM
John long Guys, I think you all are giving me good advice. If Iím lucky, working around the brace is going to be the answer. Will keep you posted....👌

07-27-2020 06:55 AM
Too Many Projects
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
I was gonna cast a vote for modifying the brace but did not play hunt up the picture.
Same, exact, thought and not willing to hunt for year(s) old pics either...
Bigger issue would be messing with cutting, welding and paint again. A sleeve for the rod to travel thru could be added to the brace to maintain the structural integrity, but if just bending the rod and drilling a new hole will take care of the problem, all the better...
07-27-2020 06:39 AM
idrivejunk I was gonna cast a vote for modifying the brace but did not play hunt up the picture. Come to think of it, sounds like a removable tunnel panel like old trucks have might be a wise addition considering what you have come up against here. I also drive girl cars but didn't always. There was a Mach1 with big primary tubes that I had to make a z bar work in and well thats just not a fun area to be doing lots of trial and error. Probably not quite as cramped on the 53.
07-27-2020 06:15 AM
Too Many Projects Pugsy might be onto something there. If you could bend the rod from pedal to z-bar down beyond the brace, to a lower hole position, you wouldn't need to mess with the brace.
You are very close to having enough travel now and I don't "think" it would need to move down an inch, but that would take a helper to step on the pedal for you to measure and determine how much lower the rod would need to be on the z-bar to gain a 1/4" of travel at the t/o arm.
07-27-2020 04:54 AM
123pugsy Can you put a bend in your rod? Shape doesn't matter, just the pivot point.
I have no clue about this of course because I'm not really a man....I only drive automatics....ha.....
07-26-2020 06:34 PM
John long Hey guys. Good stuff on all the latest posts.

Matt, I agree. I got to show her to the world. Now it is time to get back to work. It is good though to kind of know what her needs were and are.

The easiest way to fix the clutch would be to just drill the pedal down about an inch but that puts the clutch rod right in the middle of my firewall brace which is designed to keep the clutch from flexing or cracking the firewall.

Mitch, The adjustment for the clutch is the rod from the clutch throw out arm ti the bottom arm of the Z-bar. I can lengthen that arm but if I do, the rod will be pushing up on clutch release instead of pushing straight.

We certainly will work something out.

07-26-2020 04:00 PM
idrivejunk Just here to say I think you have your priorities in good alignment, John. You have gained plenty of ground to coast for a spell. Precious is done and fine as far as the world is concerned. Mission accomplished. Embellishments remain. Take your time wading through these lesser conflicts methodically. 36 needs the cobs blowed out by now anyhow. Nobody is gonna forget the fat red Chevy, and you'll be back with it. Try not to get engrossed to deeply in the 36 meanwhile, just fill in with it until the freshy is ready for full blast. Its just comforting for me and us to know that you two are still making the rounds in your car community comfortably enough. When not driving, theres no place like chair. Next to rod, on a pleasant afternoon.
07-26-2020 10:12 AM
Too Many Projects Changing to a hydraulic t/o would involve a bellhousing change along with a master cylinder for it.
You are on the right track with changing the geometry for a longer throw, John, and if there is room to move the t/o rod down on the bell-crank arm, I would experiment with that first. You should have an adjustable t/o rod now, but if not, use the Camaro rod.
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