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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior> Best paint type and color for lousy body work?
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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-05-2014 10:47 PM
charchri4
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonoake View Post
That sucker sounds wicked

A little food for thought:
Banshee project overview version - YouTube
LOL yep that's my youtube channel I posted that video. I have the entire banshee project videos and have probably watched them 30 times. I crunched it down to that one to make it easy to show my folks when they thought I was nuts. I kind of forgot it was out there but that series spawned a lot of hot rod Miatas!
05-05-2014 07:12 PM
Dragonoake
Quote:
Originally Posted by charchri4 View Post
I rolled it out over the weekend to clean and check tire clearances. It was really good to hear it run again!
That sucker sounds wicked

A little food for thought:
http://youtu.be/byeCjmu9NUo
05-05-2014 06:20 PM
charchri4 I rolled it out over the weekend to clean and check tire clearances. It was really good to hear it run again!

May roll out and clearance check - YouTube

04-27-2014 10:43 PM
charchri4
Quote:
Originally Posted by OneMoreTime View Post
Just a thought is follow the 50 foot rule..Back in the day we inspected paint on the SCCA cars from a line 50 feet from the car..Sure put a damper on the perfect paint guys..

Sam
Actually I am not that fussy. I don't care much for car shows and all I really want is to walk out the door after work and see it in the lot 100 feet away and think damn that is a cool car. It pretty much does that now so that should be an easy mark to hit.

I did a little more reading and watched some videos on plasti dip. Might be OK if you wanted to change the color every season or 2 and liked that flat nerf ball look. But there are plenty of miles after dark with bugs hitting it and a fair number of miles over 100 mph on the track to beat the front of it up. I would imagine single stage urethane white would be easy to clean and touch up and be a better choice.

I really appreciate all the input to this thread. You guys have been extremely helpful and I think you.
04-27-2014 07:33 PM
Lizer but think of the amazing grip you'd have if you had to push the car out of a snow bank
04-27-2014 05:44 PM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by carolinacustoms View Post
AND if someone doesn't like you, they can walk by and peel you paint (plasti-dip) off and leave it in a pile by the car

Kelly
Of coarse,If the person really disliked you they could just START peeling it up at the front of the hood and when he drove it down the highway a full sheet would fly up, covering the windshield and .....ouch
04-27-2014 01:27 PM
OneMoreTime Just a thought is follow the 50 foot rule..Back in the day we inspected paint on the SCCA cars from a line 50 feet from the car..Sure put a damper on the perfect paint guys..

Sam
04-27-2014 12:56 PM
carolinacustoms
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer View Post
some idiot on my Mustang forum thought it would be a bright idea to paint his ENTIRE car with plastidip and, surprise, it didn't stay on and started cracking off.

AND if someone doesn't like you, they can walk by and peel you paint (plasti-dip) off and leave it in a pile by the car

Kelly
04-27-2014 08:12 AM
Lizer some idiot on my Mustang forum thought it would be a bright idea to paint his ENTIRE car with plastidip and, surprise, it didn't stay on and started cracking off.
04-26-2014 10:22 PM
charchri4 Working on it today I had a couple thoughts. It seems to me if I put a another layer of very fine weave (not cloth) over my flares all the way to the ends of the panels it would be just like body kits are. It might crack but you would never see it because the joint is hidden.

The other thought I had is I wonder of plasti dip is stretchy enough to hide cracks if they happen under it. I've never seen a car with it but plenty of photos and it would be OK in a lighter color.

Just thinking out loud.
04-25-2014 06:14 PM
Dragonoake
Quote:
Originally Posted by charchri4 View Post
Now that I look at it I think you are right. They need to be a steeper angle and longer. I'm going to mess with a lay out this weekend on it and see how it looks.
I'm going to suggest that you take a good look at the graphics on early-70's Chargers and AAR Cudas (especially the the blacked out power bulge of the Charger) and notice how the stripes flow with the lines of the car rather than fighting against them
04-25-2014 03:44 PM
charchri4
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonoake View Post
The blue stripes look ok; but with the red stopping at the edge of the hood, it looks like you've re-painted the hood and haven't finished re-doing the stripes.
Either lose the red completely, or bring it over to meet the blue and follow it down the nose
Now that I look at it I think you are right. They need to be a steeper angle and longer. I'm going to mess with a lay out this weekend on it and see how it looks.
04-25-2014 11:53 AM
Dragonoake
Quote:
Originally Posted by charchri4 View Post
The concept is growing on me but without the curves of the Cobra the combo dosn't look quite as good on a Miata.
The blue stripes look ok; but with the red stopping at the edge of the hood, it looks like you've re-painted the hood and haven't finished re-doing the stripes.
Either lose the red completely, or bring it over to meet the blue and follow it down the nose

Quote:
Any advantage to matte or semi gloss rather than gloss white?
I would go with a semi-gloss so you don't have a lot of reflections to show where the bad body work is.
If you go too flat, then it just looks like a bad paint job that doesn't shine
04-25-2014 11:50 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonoake View Post
Polished aluminum hides blemishes on the hood nicely
In like the way this guy thinks
04-25-2014 11:14 AM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
That's one case where white isn't hiding much,and I like those blemishes just like they are.
Hmmmm. I have never heard them called blemishes before.
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