|07-14-2004 06:17 AM|
Here is a link to a Radio Shack part. It is a 12V Red LED with a mounting holder. It is probably too expensive for your project, but I am sure you could find an equivalent part at Digikey or other supplier. Someone else suggested 12V LEDs from Mouser. You really do not need a holder if you RTV the parts in place. Put insulating sleeving over the Anode(+) lead, but leave the Cathode(-) lead bare, since it goes to ground anyway. If you use Wire Wrap to connect the leads, you will not need to solder.
Here is another link. This is a High Intensity 12V LED, and is available at a reasonable price. The down side is the mini-wedge mounting will make the assembly more difficult.
|07-13-2004 09:32 PM|
|07-13-2004 07:44 PM|
|400C53F100||There are LEDs available with a built-in resistor, so they run directly off 12V. All you need to do is make a mounting plate with the pattern you want and drill the right size holes to mount the LEDs. You can use RTV to hold them in place. Then connect all the anodes together and to a terminal board. Connect all the Cathodes together and to another post on the terminal board. Then install the device, connecting one terminal to ground and the other to the brake light line.|
|07-11-2004 10:23 PM|
|07-11-2004 04:17 PM|
How are you with a soldering iron?
Or maybe these "Drop-In Replacement to #1156 Single & #1157" actually work as advertised:
|07-10-2004 10:03 PM|
A little off topic, but I have been messing with EL wire for some time now. This stuff is great! stays cold, bends easy and can be cut to fit. Nice for trimming out a dash or door panels, center console, etc.
Can also be connected to sound activated controllers for that cheesy disco effect.
Just can't go overboard, as you will end up looking like one of those [email protected] tuners.
(sorry, but that fast & furious crap is not for me.)
I have used a couple different diameters and several colors. The brightness is not the greatest, but if you are using it to highlight an area, it is perfect.
fishing line can be used to "sew" the EL onto carpet, vinyl panels, etc. the mono-filament is transparent, so the light is not interrupted.
Anyway, back to my led turn signals.
|07-10-2004 08:32 PM|
Ditto Digikey for LED's, and also mouser.com. Both will ship in small quantities.
I am going to buy purpose built LED brake/running lamps for my coupe, but I bought some red, green, and yellow 12v led's from Mouser to use as turn signal, high beam, trans OD, suicide door lock indicator lamps for the interior. They panel mount in a 5/16" hole
|07-10-2004 08:24 PM|
I have a single white 10000mcd that i used to replace the bulb in a penlight, it has been working great. I also used 8 blue 7000mcd for a domelight in my old cav. They've been in service since early this year, light up the interior nicely!
I've bought a 100 pack blue 7000mcd, 50 pack UV unknown mcd, and 50 pack white 10000mcd, and have tested most of them (probably 80%) and found no failures. As to the brand, I have no idea what distributers they sell them to, but they seem to be of decent quality and uniform brightness. I plan to rebuild a LED rear spoiler brakelight with the red 5000mcd LEDs, as the factory LEDs were a bit dim, and some had burned out (spoiler off a 97 Olds Cutlass).
I like the idea of using LED brakelights as they are less likely to burn out, and they have a much quicker response time, lighting up a couple tenths of a second before filiment lights. Nice to give the driver behind a little quicker notice when ya gotta slam on those brakes!!
I also found an easy way to make replacements for the 194 bulbs used in dashes, int lights, marker lights, etc. I'll attach a picture of my replacements... I used a piece of standard .010" on center perfboard (yeah, i got it at RS ), four blue LEDs (from Ebay) and four of the included resistors. I wired the LEDs in two groups of two, with the LEDs of each group in series and the groups in parallel. the neg side went to ground, and the pos side went to the resistors. I don't remember exactly how I grouped the resistors, but I'm sure most of you could figure it out if ya know a little about electronics; if not, i'll look at em later and figure out how i did it.
just remember that resistors in series add, while resistors in parallel are:
total resistance = 1 / ( 1 / R1 + 1 / R2 + ... + 1 /Rn )
looks worse to use than it is, as long as you have a good calculator.
|07-10-2004 09:27 AM|
But, what brand are the leds? they are not all the same, and my concern would be quality.
Digikey offers Panasonic, Siemans, and other top shelf manufacturuers's products, and although @ .21 ea. it is not a big loss if a few are dead, or fail in a week, but it would blow if you spend a lot of time building a nice light setup, only to have part of it fail a week or two later. I know leds are known for long life, but price does reflect quality. I think I will order some of the amber leds and give them a try. I have 2004 Deville tail lamps in the back of my '79 C10, and planned to buy some off the shelf led markers for the front, but I will now make my own. Thanks for the link to the auction site.
|07-10-2004 07:30 AM|
Don't let the fact that the Ebay LEDs are shipped from HK bother you. I have ordered several times thru him and always recieved my orders in 10-11 days after payment is recieved (via PayPal).
Also, most places are going to charge you $4-6 for S&H; the Ebay store offers FREE shipping! Buy it Now for 100 red 5000mcd LEDs is $21 and includes 100 resistors for 12V operation (which you won't need if you are grouping your LEDs).
I prefer this myself over the bother of group buys and extra S&H charges, and at $.21 ea. it sure beats RS!!!!
and yes Motor City.. I agree..
|07-09-2004 04:58 PM|
always check the specifications of the leds you are using prior to wiring and selecting a resistor.
digikey.com is a good source for low cost leds. they carry a huge selection of them, in different sizes, colors, lens shapes, output brightness, and of course, forward voltage.
for a tail/brakelight application, use the 2 way leds, and make sure that the brightness is a minimum of 2000 mcd (milli candella)
this will help ensure you are not rear ended during the day by some *** who can't see your lights.
I would even recommend 4000+ mcd, as they don't draw much more power (less than an extra 10Ma) and the cost is usually the same.
buy in bulk, and the price drops even more.
arrange a group buy, and you could peobably get the price down to about 12-15 cents each, without buying 1000 at a time and waiting for delivery from HK.
digikey sets up group buys all the time.
|07-08-2004 09:20 PM|
Here's a great source for LEDs, it's an Ebay store named Chi Wing LED product shop. here's the address to it: http://stores.ebay.com/Chi-Wing-LED-...enameZl2QQtZkm
I assume you will want to use Red LEDs, which operate on 1.7V, not the 3V - 3.5V that many other colored LEDs operate on. I have used groups of LED's to replace interior lights, turned out very nicely. I would recommend using several LEDs in series to get a group that takes between 6 & 8V, then calculate the resistor you would need to operate it off 14V not 12V, as they will overcurrent when your engine is running if you base it on 12V; probably wouldn't harm them immidiately, but it will decrease their 11.5 year life!
When deciding how many LEDs to group in series, keep two things in mind: 1) if you make the group voltage too close to 14V, they may not even work with the motor off or while starting the motor. 2) if you make the group voltage too low, you will need larger power handling resistors to dissipate the extra voltage.
In case you don't know how to find the right resistor value, it is:
(Supply Volts - LED Group Volts) / LED Current = Resistor Needed
NOTE: LED Current is in Amps, NOT Milli-amps, so it usually will be 0.02; also, the resistance is in Ohms.
Make sure you use the proper power capacity resistor also, as too small will overheat, and in severe cases could become a fire hazard. The power dissipated (in Watts) by the resistor will be:
LED Current * (Supply Volts - LED Group Volts) = Power Dissipated
Hope this helps ya out!
As for how to make your own light, I used 1/4 inch plexiglass for my interior dome light. I make a paper pattern, then use a sharp object to etch it into the plexi. Find a drill bit the same dia. as your LEDs and a drill press. You hafta go slow, but drill out holes for each LED, then press them into the holes.. If you have the right sized bit, you should have to press them in tightly. If you want to diffuse the light pattern of the LEDs, just sand blast the front of the assembly after you insert the LEDs. Finally, get your 15-30Watt soldering gun / pencil and solder the LEDs into your groups with a resistor for each group (see previous post). Then connect all the + & - sides of the groups and solder on your red and black wires (or pink & purple, doen't really matter as long as ya remember what's what ).
For a taillight, i'd probably not bother defusing the light.. just be sure to aim them straight back.
|07-08-2004 01:30 PM|
|07-06-2004 03:57 PM|
This site is in Japanese I think but check it out anyway.
Might help with making your own LED blinkers/brake lights.
|07-01-2004 01:04 AM|
i got some of those led exhaust tips and wired them into my brake lights so they come on when i step on my brakes, looks pretty neat IMO
there was an atricle in a popular mechanics or a popular science magazine in the last few months that had very detailed instructions on making a bulb flashlight into an LED flashlight, in the morning..make it tomorow tomorow is a busy day, ill look and see if i can find it for you
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