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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-25-2008 01:48 PM
Originally Posted by BarryK
I'm not brewing nothing, as the 7 day open coat has been an auto refinish market standard for years. (see tech sheets)
Doing some searching and reading and found this old thread. Is this still true today...the 7 day open coat as standard?
12-07-2005 02:42 AM
Block paint

Good And Dry Than Try Glyptal Great Oil And Heat Risistant. Used In Painting Alt,gen,electrical Armatures. Eastwood Carries It.
12-06-2005 01:17 PM
Added to Hotrodders Knowledge Base

This discussion has been added to the Body - Exterior Discussions category of the Hotrodders Knowledge Base.

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12-06-2005 07:05 AM
Originally Posted by 70Shorty
I have just sprayed useing etch,I got from Eastwood, now do I want to fill first then primer or what??. You know it alls got me confused, It's easy to do.
I have a acrylic primer,called dura bond. Whats your scope on that product??

Don't put any polyester fillers over etch primer, sand the etch primer off of the areas that need filler work and apply your filler to bare metal. Or strip off all of that etch primer and applt two coats of epoxy primer followed by polyester filler where needed. Stay away from any 1K acrylic primer surfacers, use urethane or polyester surfacers for best results. JMO
12-06-2005 05:39 AM
jcclark Do not put filler over Etch Primer. that's a no-no.
Over epoxy is ok.
12-06-2005 05:23 AM
filler on bare metal

Hey guys the way i was taught when i did my time as a panel beater was to apply the filler on the bare metal then prime or primerfiller otherwise the filler would only be stickin to the primer and not actually bond to the surfase properly and thats the way ive been doin it for 16/17 years and never had a prob and have seen blokes put it over primer and fall out taking the primer with it just leaving a clean surfase behid caus eit didnt bond properly but anyway as they say each to there own have a good one all
04-03-2005 06:31 PM
Bare Metal,

I have just sprayed useing etch,I got from Eastwood, now do I want to fill first then primer or what??. You know it alls got me confused, It's easy to do.
I have a acrylic primer,called dura bond. Whats your scope on that product??
03-14-2005 08:17 PM
baddbob John, cool tip- I'll have to give that a try. There always seems to be a few I need to go after with a spot blaster or a small burr bit, never though about using a broken drill bit. interesting.
03-14-2005 09:06 AM
John Kelly When you have a small area with rust pits, you can use a small broken drill bit in your drill motor. Held at an angle, it will carve out rus. Much cleaner than sand blasting.

03-13-2005 07:57 PM
Spot sand blaster...

Originally posted by troy-curt
[B]I have used thousands of gallons of body filler, and never put epoxy under it. Just be sure the metal is clean.

Knock on wood. I've never had rust problems under filler, or had any come off.

OK, but there are a few pits in the spots and I can see a tiny bit of rust in there, and I can't sand it out. So what would you recommend?

Eastwoods sells this really inexpensive spot snad blaster. It is great for getting those little pits and areas where rust settles. it only cost around $20 for it and is well worth it.
02-27-2005 10:40 PM
Flash rusting after rinsing metal

Originally Posted by Scode68
Iíve always wondered this my self. How do you rinse the panel off with water and keep it from flash rusting!

I've had the same problem too. Instead of rinsing with water, I've wiped the metal down with metal cleaner like Prepsol. The idea of painting over metal that has flash rusted seems counter intuitive to me.
02-20-2005 09:49 AM
Originally Posted by red65mustang
If you live in Arizona, DX520 might be enough. Here in "Balmy" Florida (90% humidity) it works for maybe a couple of days.

In fact, I remembered (that's amazing, for me to remember anything) and checked. The instructions do say: "coat with epoxy the same day".

PPG wants the epoxy on the bare steel immediately for a h2o/o2 barrier to stop new rust scale from starting.

.................................................. .................................................. .

I hadn't gone back and read this whole thread again till now.

For me, it's got way to many tangents and other topics twisted into it.

Here's my answer for a temporary coating on a new rust free bare steel panel part:
I clean it with brake cleaner to remove the anti-oxidation oil coating, scrub it with a red scotch brite pad to remove any rust scale then spray it with a heavy coat of Duplicolor (green) Self Etching Primer from the local autoparts store.
That works for 3 months+ in Florida.
The etch primer is easy to sand off, it's compatible with epoxy/filler/etc.

Got rust, you have to absolutely remove it to use etch primer alone for 3 months storage.
I agree... Here in Texas (Gulf Coast) I use the duplicolor etching primer, and works great.
02-06-2005 08:06 AM
baddbob interesting
01-24-2005 05:30 PM
Mr Ed

Apologies folks, agreed; fibreglass fillers are not waterproof, i was more refering towards the epoxy fibreglass repair kits such as used with the fibre matting and 2 pot resins for repairing fibreglass car bodies and boats- i think these are waterproof as i have filled some holes in hulls without topcoating them immediately before they went back in the water and didn't have any probs. For steel panel work i normally use standard body filler which definitely ain't waterproof and becuase we have a wet climate here i often put a coat of laquer over the primer if the area is not to be painted straight away to keep the repair dry.
01-24-2005 05:18 PM
sevt_chevelle Heck Brian you dont need the MSDS, look on the can!
A few years ago there was a fight on the chevelle site about Duraglass being water proof.
One thing I learned as a small child, you dont pick fights you cant win.
So the next day I bought a can of Duraglass, took a pic of the label and posted it on chevelles. Low and behold TALC is the MAIN active ingredient. Score one for Eric
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