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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-02-2015 10:24 AM
johny89 i'm not really in drag racing but i do know that it does take more than a car strong enough to be able to run good times, from stoplight racing i learned that the way a car shift is more crucial than weight per hp...
also aerodynamics, tyre grip counts
so if you need at least 300hp make sure you got 350...
04-02-2015 09:19 AM
ericnova72
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellcat41 View Post
Now do I have to get a aftermarket block or using an old 350 work? I might be able to get my hands on a cheap 454 but then that's more fabrication to mount it.
At the less than 550 HP level a stock 4-bolt main 350 block will be plenty strong enough, even a stock 2-bolt 350 block will be fine at 400 HP...no need for an aftermarket block.

454 is nice, big cubes make big power easier, but might open up a cooling nightmare in the narrow '41 nose, require an expensive radiator and expensive custom headers. Big block performance parts are also more expensive than small block.
04-02-2015 08:44 AM
Hellcat41 Now do I have to get a aftermarket block or using an old 350 work? I might be able to get my hands on a cheap 454 but then that's more fabrication to mount it.
04-02-2015 07:56 AM
Hellcat41 Yeah I'm thinking around 400hp and a set of street slicks for the track to swap on when I take her to the track. I like the turbo 350 and what I have found out is if I beef the tranny up a bit she should hold.
04-02-2015 01:56 AM
BuzzLOL
Quote:
Originally Posted by bullheimer View Post
i mean, weight here: 1941 Chevrolet Specifications ... that groovy guide. according to that all you need is 300 HP.
. Those cars are fairly light and streamlined...

. That guide assumes idealized suspension, rear end ratio, and sticky tires to run the number at "300 HP"... none of which is likely to be used in a "driver"... but since a mild 425 HP 355" or 450 HP 383" daily drivable engine can be simply, easily, and inexpensively put together these days with modern cams and heads and crank/rods/pistons kits, there's not much reason to go any lower in power... or if budget allows, various newer EFI engines...

. Might consider the lighter, more efficient TH350 tranny... or even one of the now common overdrive trannies for more comfortable cruising...

. The "10 bolt rear end" should be the larger 8 1/2" version, rather than the more common 7 1/2"... although 7 1/2" will work if not abused a lot and no sticky tires used...
.
04-01-2015 11:57 PM
ericnova72 A simple 350 or 383 stroker Generation 1 SBC will get you there...or you can step up to a 5.3 liter LS engine(324 cubic inch) with a cam upgrade if you want to go modern(or even the 6.0(366") or 6.2(374) LS engines if you can get a good deal),..... 2500-3000 rpm stall converter, 3.42 or 3.73 rear gear.

Pay attention to details and it could even get you low 13's/high 12's
04-01-2015 11:34 PM
bullheimer wait here.

i mean, weight here: 1941 Chevrolet Specifications

aint google wonderful?

thanks tech inspector for that groovy guide. according to that all you need is 300 HP. that's almost stock. and that's 13 flat with you in it i'm thinking. welcome to the site.
04-01-2015 04:29 PM
35WINDOW Here, this might help:

http://www.hardtail.com/techtips/altitude.html
04-01-2015 03:26 PM
Hellcat41 How much do I calculate in for being in such thin air? Add a second or 2?
04-01-2015 02:24 PM
techinspector1 Here's a calculator that will tell you what E.T. your car will run at whatever weight and hp.....
1/4 Mile ET Calculator
04-01-2015 01:52 PM
Hellcat41
1941 chevy running 13's

Hello hot rodders I'm new to this forum and hot rodding. I purchased a '41 special deluxe 2 door rolling chassis.. I live in Denver and I want to put an engine in it that will run 13's down the strip. I'm thinking a turbo 400 trans, the chevy 10 bolt with I don't know gear ratio. It's gonna be a driver so I can't go too heavy on mods but I was looking for in put on what SBC to use and what upgrades needed. Thank you!

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