|08-11-2015 05:24 PM|
|Camaro1968||What thermostat are you running?|
|08-08-2015 08:34 PM|
|Camaro1968||I installed the Griffen radiator with dual electric fans. Everything seems to be working fine . I let it idle for 20 mins and the fans came on. Temps showed to stay between 190 and 200. The fan switch is on when temp in intake gets to 185 . I also increased my timing to 14 degrees. Still have a heavy presence of unburned fuel when idling and kicking down the gas pedal (black smoke) and stains the driveway. I think next steps would be to install a wideband O2 sensor kit to measure the fuel to air ratio.|
|07-30-2015 06:52 PM|
|Camaro1968||It's a weiand intake with a 142cid blower, there is a port on right side by the alternator bracket that I can use. I was worried that the aluminum intake would leak with the steel fitting and no thread lock as it affects conductivity. Thermostat is 180 and the fan control is 185.|
|07-30-2015 03:21 AM|
Intake manifold next to the t-stat. I didn't see where you posted what intake you're running, but most have a port in that area. The idea being that the fans are following thermostat command. And not to state the obvious, but use a fan switch that is rated 5-10 degrees higher than the thermostat, otherwise you'll have the fan running to cool water that is not flowing from the engine.
Good luck - Jim
|07-29-2015 07:08 PM|
|Camaro1968||I ended up buying a Griffen combo radiator with dual electric fans. Still working on the install. Anyone got any ideas on best location for the temp sensor on the standard 194 GM heads for 350? I have my temp gauge on the left side head by the headers between cylinder 1 and 3 now.|
|07-17-2015 09:34 PM|
|GoFastStripes||Went with my five-blade mechanical flex fan with shroud from my previous setup. Never looked back to going stock radiator from that day on. I don't know if twin electric fans are going to improve what I already have but at 170 just driving around with my current setup and 190 sitting in traffic, what more do I need?|
|07-17-2015 08:53 PM|
|Camaro1968||Did you stick with the stock mechanical fans or go electric?|
|07-17-2015 07:04 PM|
Click here for the radiator I bought. It's been great since I installed it to replace the stock radiator I had. It's a two core but each core is 1" wide while stock cores are only .5" wide so you get better cooling from increased surface area.
Can't recommend this radiator enough. It's really helped with my overheating problems.
Also, make sure you have a properly aligned fan and shroud system. Shrouds really help maximise the radiator's efficiency.
|07-17-2015 05:56 PM|
|Camaro1968||Was that a four core with trams cooler rad?|
|07-17-2015 05:06 AM|
For what it's worth, my N/A 355 in my 68 Camaro was overheating as well and it wasn't unusual to see 190 just driving around town. It would climb up to 215-220 when sitting at the stop light. Timing was where it needed to be, jets were just fine and I made sure the radiator was filled with a proper proportion of water and coolant but it still overheated.
Replaced the radiator with one from Griffin that was 26" wide and that dropped the temps to no more than 170 when driving around. Worst I saw was 190 sitting in traffic on a hot 100 degree day.
|07-16-2015 05:36 PM|
|Camaro1968||I should say the boost hits positive pressure on the gauge when I get to 3500. Anything lower than that shows in vacuum.|
|07-16-2015 05:20 PM|
You can not look at this while just revving the engine and not driving. The boost will have more significant impact with the engine under load.
|07-16-2015 05:03 PM|
|Camaro1968||It has some sludge in there but not solder, I do have crush damage in the middle of the rad where the water pump hit on an engine pull.|
|07-16-2015 08:19 AM|
Check this out since you're there and I'm not and let me know if that's an accurate observation.
|07-15-2015 08:40 PM|
|Camaro1968||Boost only kicks in about 3500 rpm and gives about 4 psi of boost pressure.|
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|