|11-06-2015 06:05 AM|
|Jrclayt||Alright I'll have to check that. When it starts running poorly it almost sounds like a small exhaust leak. I don't have an exhaust leak is the issue. I'll check and let you know.|
|11-05-2015 06:26 PM|
|11-05-2015 06:06 PM|
|Jrclayt||My oil pressure gauge is normally maxed out will occasionally on a perfect day work intermittenly. So Oil pressure sender could actually be the root cause of this. I will check the relay tomorrow in the light and if it dies ill replace the Oil sending switch and go fromt there. Also another thought i had, if my Injector(s) are fouling out at Operating temp could that cause it? After it warms up i noticed today it has a slight miss. But only does it in closed loop at normal operating temp.|
|11-05-2015 04:46 PM|
The relay contacts could be worn or burned away.. that is why i ask most people to remove the relay and inspect the contacts.. then do mechanical squeeze the bare frame relay tests.. to see if the pump kicks on every time..
i ask them to get the truck started.. then pull the fuel pump relay out.. the engine should NOT die.. if it dies then the oil pressure switch is bad.. even if it shows good oil pressure.. the fuel pump circuit contacts are completely isolated from the oil pressure circuit in the sending unit.
GM trucks up thru 2003 used an oil pressure switch as a redundant circuit for the fuel pump power.
a worn out fuel pump will usually fail to spin up sometimes.. doing a FONZ slap to the bottom of the fuel tank while somebody is cranking the engine may get them started..
i had to lay under a minivan with a big rubber mallet with a relay extender/remote starter button wired to a old relay to get the pump to run enough to pump the fuel out of the tank.. it was filled to the neck.. it took me a while to do it..
testing failing pumps is why i use the amp meter.. the amp draw should be steady.. not surging..
|11-05-2015 01:04 PM|
|11-05-2015 10:42 AM|
|11-05-2015 10:26 AM|
|Jrclayt||Well New doesnt always mean good i suppose. I guess ill just have to replace it again.|
|11-05-2015 09:03 AM|
|69612||that description of bogging if you give it any throttle.. aims right at fuel pump failure..|
|11-05-2015 07:49 AM|
|Jrclayt||Okay i dont what you said/what i read. Didnt seem to affect it any. The way it acts is almost like an injector is shutting off sometimes. Just boggs when i go to give it gas to go up a hill or even pick up speed. Only does this under load. Light acceleration its fine. If i punch the pedal it falls on its face. I am just going to have to assume for now its a Fuel pressure issue until i can get a gauge to put on it.|
|11-05-2015 07:25 AM|
|Jrclayt||I dont have access to a scan tool. I wish i did. My motor is warmed up right now as i took my son to school. I will go out and perform this test and let you know.|
|11-04-2015 07:28 PM|
there is a passage on the passenger side top of the throttle body.. above the idle air control valve.. kinda behind the hold down bolt to pack with the rag to block the bypass air to set base idle..
page 9 of this.. procedure B. but read the other ones also..
you may also want to read this..
both don't cover it exactly like i described.. but you have not mentioned if you have access to a scan tool.. so i am taking that you don't..
well actually the upper link comes close.. as it says to use the thexton plug. but i found that they don't always fit.. so i just stuff a shop rag in it filling the cavity.. this is a 2 minute procedure.. it takes longer to warm up the engine and take the air cleaner off than it does to do this..
sorry i cannot pass 35 years of knowledge thru my fingers .. would you like to talk.
|11-04-2015 06:07 PM|
|11-04-2015 01:43 PM|
that TPS reading is perfect..
can you verify that each time it closes it reads the same..
did you see about stuffing a rag into the idle air bypass passage to block it.
then adjusting T15 idle stop screw to a very low idle speed... pull the shop towel back out and the idle will surge.. don't worry.. grap the throttle and take the RPMS to 1500 to 2000 and hold it stable there for 20 seconds.. then slowly return to idle.. that gives the computer the time to relearn the idle air position. you can shut it off.. wait 10 seconds and restart it without touching the gas..
this is a manual that covers both TBI and PFI for marine applications.. but it is the same testing for your preobd2 system. there is some there that does not cover your system. but a great idea.. in the first few pages . look at the CLEAR FLOOD mode.. that is why you need to have the TPS at the proper position and NOT vary..
|11-04-2015 01:32 PM|
|Jrclayt||Retested my TPS, its getting .586 V at idle and 4.1-4.280 at WOT (key turnde to on and engine off of course) Shouldnt it be 4.5-4.6?|
|11-04-2015 01:05 PM|
|Jrclayt||Yes i have a digital voltmeter and have already tested the TPS. Its tested good. I will check the throttle. Fuel pump is new so i really hope it isnt the issue. Not expensive but just a waste of money. I dont have a scanner for live data and i dont know anyone who does. There is no SES or CEL light anymore. Annnnnnd when i pulled in my driveway i thought i would be funny and mess with my dogs so i went to give her some throttle and heard a pop from the engine bay. Thought it was back fire. But when i put it in park and gave it some revs i got nothing. I back down my drive and headed back up in the same mannor and nothing. Not sure what it was. I dont have a Catalytic converter (not that it would even have anything to do with it) Just not sure what would have made the sound. I check my plugs and they are fine. When going down the road and coming up on a hill i can put my pedal half way to the floor and still be losing speed. My engine doesnt gain rpm or anything just seems like its starving for fuel. I can hear the fuel pump kick on when i turn my key and i can hear the relay as well. Im just at a loss with no scanner.|
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