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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Suspension - Brakes - Steering> 1937 1938 Chevy Suspension Ideas
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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-15-2004 12:43 PM
gary38
38 chevy lowering blocks

i am building a 38 2dr. i have 1 1/2 lowering blocks i have a currie 9 inch with lincolon disc brakes the blocks give me room for p. brake springs and looks cool.
gary38
12-14-2004 06:49 PM
[email protected] All of that is doable and is done all the time.
12-14-2004 03:58 PM
sodas38 Willys....welding rod. I love it I never would have thought of that. Great innovation!! I bet you have had people wanting to know where they can get the grille???

Another problem I think I may run into is the rear is a lincoln versailles with discs. The calipers amy hit the frame before the axle does....big no-no. I may have to notch the frame a bit to get the clearence. Could a guy get away with somewhat of a mini tub on the frame... maybe stepping the frame side ways (inward) and at the same time arching it higher for clearence. looking at the frame from above it would look like this...


-----_____---------------------

____------_________________


Gotta love the simplicity in that CAD drawing.
Anyway, could you make it strong enough to still run the parrallel leaf springs? The main reason is I could still run rear bumper and orig gas tank.
12-14-2004 10:37 AM
RodFather I am building a '39....first off I would like to say my girlfriends dad sold a '39 with chassis eng. rear suspension and it still bottomed out....it was like riding a horse.

For mine I took every other spring out leaving 4, and then I added 2" blocks. I am putting air bags on the rear right now coming off the axle to a custom made crossmember above it. Check my project journal.
12-14-2004 10:20 AM
[email protected] I was at a pro photographer for a business head shot when she saw my car outside and said, "I HAVE to shoot that car!", So I got a free pro portrait! The '36 Willys came with a very plain mesh grille so I wanted something a little more racy. I tried a flat aluminum sheet crammed full of louvers but it din't flow enough air so came up with this one. Sheet aluminum w/ cut holes w/ grille bars made of welding rod then chromed.

For clearance, at least 3" would be preferable. I would look seriously at C-notching the frame and tubbing the floor for at least 3". Then bolt two Lakewood rubber bumpers to the frame above the axle. These bumpers can be trimmed to any height with a hacksaw.
12-14-2004 09:58 AM
sodas38 Hey 36 nice pics of your chassis, there's some good ideas to be had off that thing if anybody else wants to check it out. The inboard springs was one of my first ideas but I wanted to run the stock tank that I had, and that would interfere. I think I'll be o.k. with 2 inch lowering blocks, just need to remember it will be lower with all the actuall weight on there. I still may need to cut part of the floor out for clearence of the rear end. Also need to be sure there's enough clearence for the axle to the frame.
Anyone have a rule of thuimbe for clearence here? 2 inches, 3 inches? I was thinking three inches, but not sure what the typical travel is when loaded.

Willy's thanks for the info, your always helpful here. Nice pic!! I hadn't seen the fornt of the Willys yet, I like that grille.
12-13-2004 09:03 PM
36scsc I used a 2WD '95 S-10 rear end and springs. Moved the spring perches inboard just enough to fab the front spring mounts up and inside the rails. On the advise of Randy from Air Ride Technologies I tossed the 2 shortest springs and installed their air sleeves. Fab'd a new rear x-member and used Ford Ranger shackles on the back. I used several 60 pound sacks of sand to simulate weight when I was putting it together. I am runn'n 3" wide white walls on the back and I want to maintain a (nearly) constant ride height in the back ( relationship of wheel well to white wall). Cobbled in G.M.'s "Electronic Ride Control" to do that automatically.

If you have mind, you can see it at...

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/bikeop...r=6fd7&.src=ph
12-13-2004 05:35 PM
jcarter I'm building a 39 chevy with after market rear leaves on Nova rear end.I havn't got to the point where it isweighted to normal driving load, but it looks like I may need a 2" block before I am happy with the stance.
12-13-2004 03:13 PM
[email protected] On the '36 Pontiac we ran stock springs and modified the spring pads on a Ford 8" to fit. It was pretty low already so we didn't add lowering blocks. On my '36 Willys, with the axle below the stock leaf springs, I added 4" raising blocks to get the nose in the air since is 60s gasser style. I made them of 1 3/4" X 4" angle iron with 1/4" plates welded on the open sides to make a solid (hollow) block. I drilled a locating hole for the spring bolt and brazed in a bolt head for the locating pin into the axle. Finally, I reamed out the spring U-bolts from 5/16" to 3/8" to handle the increased stress and had new linger U-bolts made up at my local spring shop. You should be able to do the same thing for lowering your car. Save $$ DIY. How much you can lower is another story. Go very much over stock and you are looking at C-notching the frame and tubbing for the differential pumpkin.
12-13-2004 01:54 PM
sodas38
1937 1938 Chevy Suspension Ideas

Anyone with a 37 or 38 Chevy running rea parrallel leaf springs with lowering blocks? If so what springs (kit)? And what size lowering blocks (1"/2"/3")? I am using a street rod engineering kit and plan on using 2" lowering blocks, but it looks like I may run into clearence issues with the rear end being too close to the frame. Anyone help me with what they did on theirs? Main object is to get it low but not too low (i.e. bottoming out on any little bump). Thanks.

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