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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Suspension - Brakes - Steering> Brake Problem BIG TIME!
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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-20-2004 11:26 PM
troy-curt If the switch is centered, that will work.

12-20-2004 07:08 PM
my350camaro84 okay guys thanks so much for the help. my last question. My cousin has a vacuum pump do you think if I hook that up to one of the bleeders on the front calipers and loosen it and suck fluid you think that would work also?
12-20-2004 05:42 PM
sedan delivery

crack open the metal brake line where it attach's to the flex hose, you should have fluid there. if not go to the master cylinder and open the fitting to the front brakes and check for fluid. if you have fluid at the master cyl got to the distribution valve, the one that has a wire that turn the brake light on the dash. see if fluid comes out of the valve going to the front brakes and work down . if there is no fluid at this point the valve may be set to one side not allowing fluid to pass and has to be reset. see what you can find out. good luck
12-20-2004 04:36 PM
troy-curt If it has been in that position very long it may be stuck. Sometimes they are very hard to get back in the right place.

Try getting the front system sealed up, then break the rear loss or open a bleeder on the rear, and push the pedal, this should kick the switch back the other way. You may have to gravity bleed to get fluid back in the front system ( or use a pressure bleeder ) until you do get some fluid in the front, the switch will probably just kick back and forth. Sometimes they go easy and sometimes they don't. If you can find one there is a special tool that screws into the valve to lock it in the center for bleeding purposes. There should be a brake warning light on the dash telling you that pressure has failed at one end or the other, and that the switch has moved. When the light dosn't come on when the pedal is pushed with the key on, then the switch is in the neutral position. Brakes should be bleed starting with the furthest away bleeder, RR then LR then RF then LF. You may have to replace the switch to get the system bleed.

I'll try this picture of the tool, I can't get a clear shot for some reason.


12-20-2004 02:27 PM
my350camaro84 troy! thats the kinda reply I was looking for! how do I go about reseting this switch?
12-20-2004 08:35 AM
troy-curt If the front system has been open and the pedal pushed, the metering valve should have closed of the front part of the brakes.
You need to reset the switch (valve). Thats why it's called a duel brake system.

12-20-2004 06:50 AM
Rob (chuck) Berry
Now stop right there!

First off get a pair of line clamps and block off your front flex lines; have you got a better pedal ?
If you do it is likely that the new calipers have not been installed so the bleed valve is in the highest position, on some cars you can put the calipers on the wrong side and the bleed nipple is too low leaving air above it. Had a friend with a T Bucket had this problem in 1986 because he made his own mounts. I took off the calipers and placed a bit of wood between the pads so the pistons would not pop and then held the cals so the bleeder was up, a couple of pumps on each and all was OK' carefully put them back on and has been working fine since, hope this helps


12-19-2004 07:55 PM
poncho62 Did you replace the flex hoses too?

There may be a blockage in them. Even if you did, there may be debris from the steel lines that was sitting all that time.....rust etc.

Disconnect the flex lines and see if you have flow just out of the steel lines.
12-19-2004 07:50 PM
Brake Problem BIG TIME!

okay guys. where to start. well when I first bought this car it had no front brake calipers and they've been off for a good year or so. well anyways I finally got around to buying new ones and I put them on went to bleed them and nothing! so I thought okay. bled the master cylinder, and rear drums. then went back to the front. nothing! I had an assisstant hold the pedal down, loosened the bleeder then tightened back up and repeated that process for a good 5-10 mins. any suggestions? I checked the lines and they aren't rusted at all and theres no breaks in them. I've been told to try using a vacuum pump to suck the air out that way. you think that would work? I really am stumped on this one. Thanks guys.

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