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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-03-2018 05:50 AM
farna Didn't read every post, so if this has been mentioned....

As far as the welder not liking 0.023" wire, try getting new roller wheels. You've probably used so much 0.030" wire that the wheels have a bit of a groove in them, just enough to not grip the smaller wire well. Try taking the tension off the rollers when done if the welder is stored for a long time between uses, just don't forget to check tension before you start welding.
04-02-2018 04:01 PM
rip-tide
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacksmith_Friday View Post
Hi guys, new here and my first post. Quick tip for not over grinding welds. I work in high end art fabrication, ( museums, public art, and private collections). To not over grinding welds. Before you start grinding cover all welds to be ground with blue painters tape. Press tape into the contour of the weld. Start grinding, and the tape will come off only on the weld. If the tape comes off anywhere but the weld your angle is to steep. Grind until you barely see the tape beyond the weld start coming off. I usually start my weld grinding with a right angle air tool with a 3M Roloc disc, 40 or 60 grit.
That's my tip...thanks

1972 International Harvestor 1210 pickup
That's slick .... thanks I will use it.

Greg
04-02-2018 12:51 PM
tech69 i use a thick cut off disk with a light attached to my head. Can see everything going on. once it's cut down I get the die grinder and blend it in a little.
04-02-2018 05:25 AM
shine machinist blue dye works well .
04-01-2018 08:41 PM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacksmith_Friday View Post
Hi guys, new here and my first post. Quick tip for not over grinding welds. I work in high end art fabrication, ( museums, public art, and private collections). To not over grinding welds. Before you start grinding cover all welds to be ground with blue painters tape. Press tape into the contour of the weld. Start grinding, and the tape will come off only on the weld. If the tape comes off anywhere but the weld your angle is to steep. Grind until you barely see the tape beyond the weld start coming off. I usually start my weld grinding with a right angle air tool with a 3M Roloc disc, 40 or 60 grit.
That's my tip...thanks

1972 International Harvestor 1210 pickup
Interesting, I will give that a try. I usually just watch the metal being hit around it and adjust accordingly. But I will give that a try and see how it works out, thanks.

Brian

Brian
04-01-2018 08:37 PM
Blacksmith_Friday Hi guys, new here and my first post. Quick tip for not over grinding welds. I work in high end art fabrication, ( museums, public art, and private collections). To not over grinding welds. Before you start grinding cover all welds to be ground with blue painters tape. Press tape into the contour of the weld. Start grinding, and the tape will come off only on the weld. If the tape comes off anywhere but the weld your angle is to steep. Grind until you barely see the tape beyond the weld start coming off. I usually start my weld grinding with a right angle air tool with a 3M Roloc disc, 40 or 60 grit.
That's my tip...thanks

1972 International Harvestor 1210 pickup
02-11-2017 08:54 AM
123pugsy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schroeder View Post
DBM, take a look at the 2nd picture. Do u c the rust under the inner structure. It's on the backside of the surface rust on the top of the car. Other spots that look just like the surface rust on the outside of the roof skin as showed in the 1st pic do NOT have that bad rust flaking on the inside or I can not see the backside to verify.

Right now I plan on wire wheeling all the bad flaking rust away from the inside of the roof skin, but I don't wanna put a $13k paint job on this, have it bubble up, and have to replace a roof skin later.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Tough call.
Condensation occurs inside a car during the cool nights is what causes that.
If it's flaking, I would be leery on using that as well.

So, if it needs to come off to change a new skin, it would be off and you could try cleaning it up before buying a new one. A coat of epoxy would put a stop to it rusting again in the future.
02-11-2017 08:46 AM
Schroeder
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Your roof looks pretty solid to me.
DBM, take a look at the 2nd picture. Do u c the rust under the inner structure. It's on the backside of the surface rust on the top of the car. Other spots that look just like the surface rust on the outside of the roof skin as showed in the 1st pic do NOT have that bad rust flaking on the inside or I can not see the backside to verify.

Right now I plan on wire wheeling all the bad flaking rust away from the inside of the roof skin, but I don't wanna put a $13k paint job on this, have it bubble up, and have to replace a roof skin later.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
02-11-2017 08:27 AM
deadbodyman Your roof looks pretty solid to me.
02-11-2017 08:26 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Maybe it's not the snips, maybe you're getting old.

Disassemble the snips completely and try to sharpen the blades with a small angle grinder. You may get yourself a free set.
I've had these forever and they've been pretty good snips for what they are (Task Force from Lowes) what I need is another pair of aviation snips. You may be on to something though Puggs, my grip aint what it used to be.
02-11-2017 08:01 AM
Schroeder




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
02-10-2017 05:55 PM
Schroeder Hey we're on the topic of rust repair so this is loosely related: I have a roof on a 77 TA that I planned on pulling. The skin has some light surface rust on top. It doesn't appear to be anything I won't be able to get off with a light dusting of a grinder. The inside of this same spot concerns me. I wonder if there is any more of this on the inside of the roof skin tucked away out of view behind the inner roof structure. Does this warrant a roof skin repair as well? I'm really, really, really, really trying to avoid that. Did I mention that I'm trying to avoid that? Take a look and let me know.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
02-05-2017 04:50 PM
st3gamefarm For radius cuts, a good nibbler is hard to beat, and doesn't make your hand sore. (unless you get one of those "devils horns" stuck in it)
02-05-2017 08:00 AM
Schroeder I think my brand new midwest snips r hard to use on 18ga steel. They're rated for it too.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
02-05-2017 05:57 AM
123pugsy
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
I had a quick job to do yesterday and got out my old (red) snips started cutting and remembered this thread. I gotta get me a new pair of snips my hands are sore. my wrist too. This work don't need to be this hard.
Maybe it's not the snips, maybe you're getting old.

Disassemble the snips completely and try to sharpen the blades with a small angle grinder. You may get yourself a free set.
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