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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-31-2017 07:16 PM
39 master
Bearclaw install

Well, the passenger side is done and painted. Note the gap in the removable piece on the door. I'll fill that with some white RTV so that it could be cut out in case repairs to the "claw" are necessary. As a side note I decided to grease the window regulator while everything is apart. That didn't go well as rubber pieces came flying out. Took the regulator out and see that I need to make some nylon rollers and grind rivets out. Time to fire up the lathe. As with all my projects the snowball has started to roll. Should I look into muffler bearings now?
03-29-2017 12:13 PM
39 master
Bearclaw install

Got things aligned and welded in. Little more body work and should be able to squirt some paint on the jams. The way the claw is mounted in the door I figured that a removable piece would be nice just in case access was necessary, that's why there is a gap. I've had trouble with bondo hardener bleed thru when using a whitish paint. While getting the paint yesterday discovered that hardener comes in three colors, red, blue and white. Hey, if white bleeds thru the white paint I won't be able to see it. Problem is when I put the white hardener into the Bondo can't tell when it all mixed up! I'll be jammin' for a few more days.
03-21-2017 05:39 PM
39 master
Bearclaw install

Little bit of progress, door is operational but will leave the sheet metal off until everything is together and tested. Cut the old stuff out of the B pillar and making the necessary sheet metal to support the striker pin.
03-21-2017 11:21 AM
39 master
Bearclaw install

'49 That's what I needed to hear. I was wondering if the rubber seals would make things harder to operated and you answered my question.

I got the door side done and both outside and inside handles are working now. Time to focus on the pin in the B pillar. Have to pull out a bunch of stuff just to get the card off.
03-21-2017 11:12 AM
'49 Ford Coupe The bear claw latches that I put into my coupe from a certain shoebox vender worked really well and easy to open and close until I put the door seals on and installing The Windlass with my interior work. Now it's a whole different story once there is pressure on that latch it takes a fairly tremendous amount of force to unlock the doors. So don't worry about the doors flying open until and unless you got door seals and Windlass in place with pressure on the door. See my gallery on the website that is titled the doors. Very disappointed.
03-21-2017 09:58 AM
39 Sedan yes my safety pins are the twist type as well. I wish i still had stock doors and handles but all of that was done prior to me.

As to the "Jaws" meh, the old car are solid but no special metals in them "our" jaws and cutters will eat thru like butter. These new cars are way more of an issue with the special formed metals and double to triple nader bolts, air bags etc.
03-21-2017 08:40 AM
Originally Posted by 39 Sedan View Post
Mine are electrified but still do not take much to release. My doors have the safety pins added which are a manual 1" throw safety pin into the front frame since i have suicide doors. I am very adiment about making sure they are engaged.

I used Bearclaw latches ...still have them 15 years old now. but i think the company that builds them, Didn't have O/S door handles in mind- for use with bear claws, btw i have 32 suicide steel doors stock. i couldn't bring myself to use those Bearclaws... due to popping the doors open so i could kiss them or it goodbye. Stock mechanisims and and slamming the doors {they can take it}The bear claws on my 49 ford are opened with a weatherproof toeswitch under the rocker panel .Slam these doors i get abit irate, kids are just born to slam the D*** doors just giving you some , ideas on goods and bads of these type openers hth bob s

03-21-2017 08:14 AM
39 master
Bearclaw install

I'm using the standard outside handle modified to fit the Carolina Custom square hole. Good news is everything is tight, bad news is everything is tight. Maybe if I cut a slot in the vertical link between the Carolina Custom ear and the bearclaw there would be enough play so the weight of the handle won't be "tapping" on the bearclaw. I do want to use the locks but it will take some engineering because the slide is right at the window channel. Going into this project I knew that space was my problem so I'll just have to work thru it. My doors are not suicide so there is no need of safety pins which I did have on the Willys. Even had a light on the dash that would only go out when BOTH pins were engaged. Diagram supplied on request. As a side note, not real crazy about pins and locks in the event of an accident. They would keep the door closed BUT emergency teams would end up using jaws and eating valuable time.
03-21-2017 06:59 AM
39 Sedan Mine are electrified but still do not take much to release. My doors have the safety pins added which are a manual 1" throw safety pin into the front frame since i have suicide doors. I am very adiment about making sure they are engaged.
03-21-2017 06:28 AM
idrivejunk Are you using the locks? Those should prevent that, if used. The bear claw installs I've done used aftermarket handles or none, and were not that brand. I don't know just what your handle looks like but am thinking it's the twist to open type. Adding a spring so more effort is required may help. Can't hurt to contact the manufacturer for guidance. It does surprise me how little effort opens these tiny aftermarket latches, but customers usually want their doors to operate like house doors so I get why they are built that way.
03-20-2017 06:42 PM
39 master
Bearclaw install

Decided to put bearclaws on the '39. Just to make life harder I want to keep the inside and outside handles and no electrics going into the doors. First step was to remove the old stuff but someone decided to replace a special screw on the outside handle with a roll pin. Couldn't get the roll pin out so the next option was to cut both sides of it which also required that I cut the latch inside the door. In place of the innards of the latch I'm putting a Carolina Custom door handle install kit. The window track on a '39 is very close to the outside jam and the bearclaw must fit snug against it to clear the B pillar. Of course had to modify the handle to fit in the square hold of the Carolina Custom item. Here things are tacked in place and the outside handle is operational. Working on a cable run for the inside handle. Only thing I don't like so far is the short throw of the outside handle to trip the bearclaw. It also doesn't take much pressure to operate and worried about hitting a bump, the handle flow a bit and open the door. You poeple with bearclaw latches and outside handles run into this problem?

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