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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-28-2018 07:40 PM
cerial I have a industrial soda blaster that I bought years ago for $400. It requires a industrial air compressor to run which I rent at $230 delivered(and picked up) and has a hitch for moving around. Mine has a water feature. But I have not used it yet.



I have done a entire 84 c30 in 6 hours after 2 hours of prep. I drove the thing to a clear spot in the grass then I started shooting it. I perfer to do it outside. But have done it inside a 2 stall garage with a 93 s10. Yes it makes for a dusty situation. The best way I have found is to buy a roll of visqueen and cover everything in the garage with it then drive the thing in. Throw down a extra layers where you will be walking and kill a entire roll of gorilla tape. Put a box fan in a window and shut off the heater. Yes you will be doing this in your car hearts. Throw on your respirator/goggles then a coat with a hood and go at the thing.

2 mill of paint comes off as fast as you can wave the wand.

Here is the visqueen I buy.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-12-f...-204711644-_-N

Between the air compressor, bags of soda, and visqueen I have around $300 into a car and unless the thing has 1/4+" of bondo(there have been a few) I can usually get the thing down to metal in a day and have them pick up the compressor.
Wet sand the rest of the thing the next day looking for any areas you have missed and doing repairs/filling/sanding then lay down a couple coats of primer before the thing starts to rust on you.

You don't need something as big as I run. I use a harbor freight unit with nothing except respirator and goggles many times for repair work like rockers and wheel wells.

You could rent a small compressor and blaster similar to a harbor freight unit that will hold 1/2 a bag and go at the thing. You will probably take 2 days spending most of your time filling the thing. I am guessing $150-200 plus soda.

Yes your going to pay more then chemical stripping. But you can remove more of the stuff faster then chemical stripping. When you chemical strip you need to stay away from things like trim so you have a 1" or so around the windshield or around the door trim. You should be removing this trim but that is not always the case. With soda you can run right up to and over this rubber.

That 1" of paint that you leave on with chemical stripping adds up in labor and sand paper.

I have done things like metal doors and metal dashes using soda inside the thing having the pressure set "low" and basically airbrushing the paint away. The windshield was out. But the headliner, seat, and carpet all remained. I did do a good amount of prep but they stayed in start to clear.





Now if you are taking the thing all the way down. All the trim off, glass out, drive train out, maybe even have the body on casters or a body rotisserie. Then yes Chemical that puppy. Slop that stuff all over your not going to hurt anything as long as no one tracks the stuff it anywhere it should not go around the shop.

But for things like having the drive train in, glass in, and in some cases having trim on something pre war with things like trim that can not be replaced or is crazy expensive(you can shoot over most trim). Soda may be a better choice.
01-28-2018 05:00 PM
HunterKing38 You could use that to do the trick. Just make sure you keep it moving. Don't spend too much time on one area and be sure not to double pass any areas unless they absolutely need it.
01-22-2018 08:28 AM
tech69 another reason is that it takes longer to kick in cold weather. It's messy stuff. I don't really like using it.
01-21-2018 10:24 AM
Grizzdog 55 Well thanks to all the input, i am going to go with the sanding method as the stripper is to toxic for my shop space and to cold here to have the doors open and sanding it will be messy i know but clean up as i go.

Thanks Dave
01-11-2018 10:40 AM
shine for the DIY guys i would advise a razor blade and heat gun . faster than chemicals and much cleaner . either way you end up sanding . the only place the blade does not work is on bondo spots. go around them and come back later with a sander. knock the paint off and use a propane torch and wire brush to get rid of the filler.
01-11-2018 09:20 AM
tech69 I never had problems with paint and strippers. I don't use tape, it's not cut out for the strength of the stripper. Aluminum tape works awesome. You can also curl it up to contain the stripper on horizontal panels even better. Never had a problem with it getting into the jambs with aluminum tape. Scrape it off and wash it off with a hose while lightly scuffing to be sure. Sand and it's ready.
01-11-2018 09:08 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by shine View Post
i switched to media blasting long ago . chemstrip can cause serious paint problems. especially on glass . wash thinners can be worse as they are mostly recycled solvents and acids . if a vette has been washed with thinner i wont touch it. the point is to float and remove the contaminate not melt it into the surface.
I try not to paint the glass. LOL.
Like I said before the lacquer thinner is to remove the goo NOT prep for primer. using lacquer thinner /wash thinner for metal prep would be bad if I wasn't clear on that, use wax and grease remover only.
Your right shine. Stripping a vet , kit cars, replicars and plastic is (of coarse) a whole different story.
I've never once had a paint problem in 40 yrs caused by using chem strip on metal cars if you've had a lot of problems (on metal) your right not use it and invest in all the blasting equipment and a booth to do it. Not really an option or something your normal DIY can do at home, but I think the first thing I would have done is stop washing the bare metal cars with water.

Think about it for a second, if nothing else, water will get absorbed by the masking tape and paper which would fall off and then the sludge would get in the jambs and that would be bad.
Not everyone wants or needs to completely disassemble car down to the empty shell or take chance having somebody ruin (warp) their car either. another disadvantage of blasting.
I can honestly say that just about any DIY'er can chem strip at home and have zero problems especially with paint or primer with a few simple pointers.
01-11-2018 08:52 AM
shine you must be some bad hombres to strip a car in a day or less .
with my 185cfm 1 1/4 hose 3/8 nozzle it takes between 10-18 hrs to clean a car to white metal.
the reason you wont get a quote is because there is no way to know how many hours it will take. how many layers of paint ? how much bondo ? how much rust ? if you insisted on a firm quote i would give you the hrs for the worst i had done .
01-11-2018 08:49 AM
roger1
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
I forgot about those Roger, I really liked the way they worked but they didn't hold up for crap and were very expensive back about 15-20yrs ago when they first came out, sounds like they improved them and brought the cost down. I'd try them again. How long did that job take to do, start to finish. would the little rol-loc stripers work for the details instead of blasting? Is it primed or painted yet?
You ever notice how hard it is to prime the car and cover up all that work you did. Looks good.
The 4 1/2" discs I got from Roarke last darn good if you keep them flat and are easy on the amount of pressure you put on them. If you start using the edges, they wear out much quicker.
I was talking about HF electric angle grinders. Electric HF tools are usually not worth buying but their air tools can be pretty good for the money.
For the 4 1/2" discs, I use a Milwaukee electric.

I did buy several of the Roloc strip discs for my air powered angle die grinder. But, they don't last very long relative to the 4 1/2". I thought they would help me strip the bed but they really didn't help all that much over just using the edges of the 4 1/2" discs and sacrificing their life doing that.
I think I used about 14 of the 4 1/2" discs on this car because the of the bed. I think an ordinary car could be done with about 10. It took me 3 days to strip the El Camino but I think you could figure 2 days to strip an ordinary car.
By the way, this El Camino had had one paint job on top of the original paint. The paint was single stage Deltron that I put on back in 1999.

$50 worth of these discs is well worth saving the mess that either blasting or using chemicals makes. And the chemicals cost money and takes time too.

After a prep with 80 grit and a D/A, I applied 2 coats of SPI epoxy primer and blocked with 180. Then 2 more coats of epoxy and blocked with 180 then 320. Then 2 last coats (reduced 20%) and blocked with 400.

In some areas where I had to do a little body work with small dents and dings, I sprayed some Slick Sand polyester primer the following day over the first 2 coats of epoxy primer. Just on the sides of the car and tailgate were the minor damage had been corrected and more build for blocking was needed. I also had to do a lot of work in getting the gaps and panel alignment right on this car. It had never had any major damage but the factory didn't do so well in that regard during that era.

I have a project thread going on the El Camino Central forum if you are interested in further details.

My '83 Choo Choo needs a refresh and I'm tired of the original black. - El Camino Central Forum : Chevrolet El Camino Forums

You can go to the end and work backwards if you are just interested in the bodywork and paint part.
01-11-2018 08:32 AM
tech69 I hear good things about this machine. Haven't tried it yet but it sounds promising. Adjustable RPM's too.

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-contour-sct.html
01-11-2018 08:29 AM
tech69
Quote:
Originally Posted by roger1 View Post
I use these on a 4 1/2" angle grinder:

Pearl 4.5" x 7/8" Stripping Disc

If you are careful and keep them flat and don't apply too much pressure, you can strip an entire car with about 10 of them. Goes pretty fast. Follow up with a d/a and 80 grit for a final surface prep before primer.
Beats chemicals and blasting although you can't reach nooks and crannies with the discs. So, you have to use another method for those areas.

Don't waste your time with HF angle grinders. They don't last. This is what I've been using:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...0-33/202101584

Just stripped this car that way. Photos are before the d/a prep and blasting the nooks and crannies.





those are very good for jambs but an angle grinder has a blazing fast speed. If you warp it you might not notice til after you re sand it a little smoother. I would not recommend this on exterior surfaces like a hood or roof. On a 3" grinder maybe but not on an angle grinder. I bet that works great in the bed though.
01-11-2018 08:01 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by roger1 View Post
I use these on a 4 1/2" angle grinder:

Pearl 4.5" x 7/8" Stripping Disc

If you are careful and keep them flat and don't apply too much pressure, you can strip an entire car with about 10 of them. Goes pretty fast. Follow up with a d/a and 80 grit for a final surface prep before primer.
Beats chemicals and blasting although you can't reach nooks and crannies with the discs. So, you have to use another method for those areas.

Don't waste your time with HF angle grinders. They don't last. This is what I've been using:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...0-33/202101584

Just stripped this car that way. Photos are before the d/a prep and blasting the nooks and crannies.





I forgot about those Roger, I really liked the way they worked but they didn't hold up for crap and were very expensive back about 15-20yrs ago when they first came out, sounds like they improved them and brought the cost down. I'd try them again. How long did that job take to do, start to finish. would the little rol-loc stripers work for the details instead of blasting? Is it primed or painted yet?
You ever notice how hard it is to prime the car and cover up all that work you did. Looks good.

Heres the trick to getting the HF die grinders to last for years like mine. install an in-line regulator at the end of your hose to be able to control the speed of ALL your air tools. I see guys running the air tools at full blast (150 lbs) all the time and it makes me cringe. My die grinders have held up for years and its the best deal HF has IMO.
The 4/12"grinder is a great must have tool at the shop I have three of them one for grinding welds, cutting sheetmetal and one for wire wheeling. Its very handy (this one don't even have a variable speed control for stripping) but It could never take the place of die grinders or the angle die grinders which I use pretty much every day.
01-10-2018 06:27 PM
Grizzdog 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
It looking good. the fumes can be bad if your right over it wear a mask circulate the air with a small box fan set low you don't want a wind to dry the stripper out just some air movement.
For removing old under coating I like to warm it up with a small propane torch and a diffuser tip then it scrapes right off in sheets sometimes it comes off cold without heat. I even welded a putty knife to an old air chisel, used at very low setting it'll pop off the real stubborned stuff
Thanks i will give it a whirl, Dave
01-10-2018 06:24 PM
Grizzdog 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by sidbec View Post
Get a good quality respirator with particulate filters [3-M]. not one of those cheap surgeons masks. We see too dang many old HotRod Guys with oxygen bottles.
I have a good selection of north filters for that thanks for the heads up.
01-10-2018 04:59 PM
sidbec
roverboy77

Get a good quality respirator with particulate filters [3-M]. not one of those cheap surgeons masks. We see too dang many old HotRod Guys with oxygen bottles.
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