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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 11:22 AM
idrivejunk
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Price is right and does a neat job of getting everything together.



https://www.amazon.com/ONLINE-LED-ST...0981415&sr=8-4
Batteries do self destruct / explode. Happened to a friend's 62 Valiant in HS while driving and he thought he got shot at. The car cranked up three more times afterward, before he found the battery exploded.

I don't want to re-engineer for added complexity, just get heat. Not expecting adjustable heater fan speed. Do have OE boxes around and maybe a parts store bought six holer blade type fuse box. I don't buy things online. Still on glass fuses. Not planning to resurrect the aux fan. Don't use insulated connectors anymore myself but am not good at soldering. I was able to swap the bad half of my EC's fuse box over to blade type without soldering but I do own an iron and some solder that is here at home. And heat shrink tube. I'll think of something. Might just go buy a better switch, might hook the stock wiring and switch back up. Switches I used in the past were just not bought for the purpose and apparently only make several years of service when used that way.

Turned the nub for the passenger side temp actuator on the GTP to hot today, with pliers. Woohoo! Still need to add a sunvisor to the right B pillar somehow.
Today 10:48 AM
idrivejunk
Quote:
Originally Posted by cozwurth View Post
Question... Can the sides of the roof panel along the drip rails be 'glued' with panel bond instead of welded? Sail panels and front/rear glass will be welded like factory.
Yes. Mock clamp first to be sure you have enough clamps that work.
Today 09:57 AM
cozwurth
Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
I have contained my thoughts to one emerald tablet's worth. Dave I may have lost some pics I was looking for, to see how its put together. This may assist you in seeing whats going on with the roof rail construction. There are many ways to skin a cat.

Pen stuff at top is drip rail, pencil is sail panel. Shapes are imaginary. I vote patch over all four.

Question... Can the sides of the roof panel along the drip rails be 'glued' with panel bond instead of welded? Sail panels and front/rear glass will be welded like factory.
Today 09:52 AM
123pugsy
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
I like using bare connectors and heat shrink over insulated connectors. It's always tough to look at an insulated connector and be sure how good the crimp is. But with bare it's easier to see the crimp. Plus they just look much better after the heat shrink is on and they're finished!

Agree. I love solder and shrink. Gawd, I don't know how many million connections on the Vortec swap I had to do.



I use insulated under the dash/unseen/out of weather, however, I squeeze them with the part of the tool that pokes a hole thru the insulation and stabs the wire properly. The poker for the non insulated ones. Nice and tight every time. I also make sure not to stab the seam. They sometime split.


I had the guys in the shop cut off the front end of their tools that just squeeze the insulated connectors. They are always loose and we get service calls later.
Today 09:46 AM
123pugsy Price is right and does a neat job of getting everything together.



https://www.amazon.com/ONLINE-LED-ST...0981415&sr=8-4
Today 09:45 AM
1971BB427 I like using bare connectors and heat shrink over insulated connectors. It's always tough to look at an insulated connector and be sure how good the crimp is. But with bare it's easier to see the crimp. Plus they just look much better after the heat shrink is on and they're finished!
Today 09:42 AM
123pugsy
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
Soldering wires to a fuse can melt the element connection and cause it to fail at lower amperage.

Thanks. That would really make it a pain, failing quicker.


I used a cheap relay/fuse box from Amazon on my El Camino. All wires soldered to the connectors, just don't know how long they'll stay tight.


I did fuse the hot sides. Just realized when I checked back on these pics.
















Today 08:25 AM
1971BB427
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Jeeziz....never seen anything like that before.


If you want a sure fire fuse connection, solder wires to the fuse and heat shrink. PITA to change but, no loose connections.
Or use all OEM stuff.
Soldering wires to a fuse can melt the element connection and cause it to fail at lower amperage.
Today 07:59 AM
123pugsy I got the last bit of fender flange going on......











Today 07:56 AM
123pugsy Jeeziz....never seen anything like that before.


If you want a sure fire fuse connection, solder wires to the fuse and heat shrink. PITA to change but, no loose connections.
Or use all OEM stuff.
Today 07:52 AM
1971BB427
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
The 30 AMP fuse holder we buy these days are made in China and I've had one melt down also.


Use relays everywhere so you only need a 10 AMP fuse for your heavy duty stuff.


The relays are cheap and so easy to install. Diagrams all over google.
Electricity (especially DC!) can do strange things, even when it's sitting static with nothing running! Batteries never really turn off, they simply get disconnected from the system. But as I found out last year they can still have issues when just sitting in the driveway!
This was my '63 Falcon's battery before it decided to self destruct.



I went out to start the car one day and the battery was dead. Opened the trunk and saw the carnage. The battery had a disconnect and it was off, so nothing connected to cause the carnage.



This what I removed from the trunk.





Battery manufacturer said it appeared the battery plates shorted internally and began a China syndrome as it sat in the driveway. Fortunately it never burst into flames or the end result could have been total loss of the car, and maybe the house too! But their warranty protects them from anything more than just battery replacement. Didn't even pay for clean up, or new paint.
Today 06:05 AM
idrivejunk
Quote:
Originally Posted by cozwurth View Post
Having a relay is good. Always run a fuse, even with a relay. I can think of a couple of things that could cause this... the fan motor could be heading south, causing some not-so-good terminals in the fuse holder to heat up and melt. Check the ends of those wires to see if the remnants of the fuse are still in them. The fan motor could be fine, and it could have simply been loose connections in the fuse holder. Definitely put a fuse back in that line, though.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Thanks. The aux cooling fan is a thing that technically should not be anyway. Its like a training wheel that ought to be taken off at this point. Like the huge heavy box and amp in the trunk.

If I were to put the stock heater fan switch back in it and make all that work, that would be the right thing to do there. All I know how to do is run a hot wire to it for some defrost action and thats how it was for many many years. But it needs a relay or just a good enough switch. Adding a relay adds connections where problems can arise. Seems like a blower motor that doesn't require 30 amps ought to be available these days though, too. That nearly maxes out the stock electrical system all by itself. Its law here now that you can't use wipers without headlights but with those plus the blower motor that load exceeds a stock alternator's rating.

Its like the whole mystery with the GTP running hot until I got the A/C compressor off the belt. It cools like normal with just that change. I don't know how or why. When I can get by, thats what I do.
Today 05:06 AM
cozwurth
Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
It does have a relay. It is plugged into the black control box on the core support in the pic. Maybe I added the fuse. I thought a fuse is still needed even if a relay is used. There were zero remnants to be found. I know how it sounds, but the car was in a show with the hood up a few months ago, with me wandering around. Maybe theres an old pic that can shed light. Or maybe I changed dimensions again, hell I dunno. I probably confused everyone mingling talk of blower motor and aux cooling fan.

Dynacorn made the unstepped sail panel kind of Camaro roof, maybe they have one for yours. The trick might be, if keeping drip rails, to drill the tiny and inconsistent factory spot welds out from under the rail and weld from down there. But on one I bonded to the drip rail and on one I welded from inside the rail on top. I think. Been slippin a lot lately though, on things I thought I knew.
Having a relay is good. Always run a fuse, even with a relay. I can think of a couple of things that could cause this... the fan motor could be heading south, causing some not-so-good terminals in the fuse holder to heat up and melt. Check the ends of those wires to see if the remnants of the fuse are still in them. The fan motor could be fine, and it could have simply been loose connections in the fuse holder. Definitely put a fuse back in that line, though.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Yesterday 09:52 PM
idrivejunk
Quote:
Originally Posted by cozwurth View Post
That does kinda look like the remnants of some tape. Any chance that the pieces fell someplace where they can be found? I agree with Pugsy, that a relay is needed in that circuit. I thought all of those fan wiring kits had a relay in it already? I just had to replace a fuse holder on my mower. 20 AMP fuse holder and the fuse were melted on one side. I'm guessing that the connection was weak on the melty side. The fuse was still good, as in not blown, but it was ugly. Things sure are being cheaply made now...

It does have a relay. It is plugged into the black control box on the core support in the pic. Maybe I added the fuse. I thought a fuse is still needed even if a relay is used. There were zero remnants to be found. I know how it sounds, but the car was in a show with the hood up a few months ago, with me wandering around. Maybe theres an old pic that can shed light. Or maybe I changed dimensions again, hell I dunno. I probably confused everyone mingling talk of blower motor and aux cooling fan.

Dynacorn made the unstepped sail panel kind of Camaro roof, maybe they have one for yours. The trick might be, if keeping drip rails, to drill the tiny and inconsistent factory spot welds out from under the rail and weld from down there. But on one I bonded to the drip rail and on one I welded from inside the rail on top. I think. Been slippin a lot lately though, on things I thought I knew.
Yesterday 09:34 PM
idrivejunk
Quote:
Originally Posted by rip-tide View Post
What do you do with an old 3 light pole lamp? Make a drop light out of it of course.

Cardboard is still my favorite creeper.



Ha. I have spent lots of time under my junks in my little garage with a lamp from indoors and a moving blanket and the same water heater box creeper over two decades but somehow... it was never as cool as whatever you are doing there. But box is best. My creeper will grab and try to rip off the backside of your bicep. It has a wicked bite, wraps skin between wheel and caster thingy. When I yelp and flinch, theres a head injury to boot. And don't dare roll the wrong direction to free yourself from it!
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