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The "What Did You Work On Today" thread

3M views 36K replies 388 participants last post by  cerial 
#1 ·
4 hour work day for me at the shop. Used the time to do a valve body swap on a '01 Jetta 1.8t auto .... I successfully installed a transbrake on the car .... that however wasn't my intention.

Its in 2 gears at once in park, all other gears (R/N/D/2/1) are forward gears.... they all seam to be first gear.

I have it torn back down most of the way. Tuesday I'll actually get the VB back out and see whats up.... but part of me wants to take it out for a test drive the way it is just for the fun of it.
 
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#22,942 ·
Thanks.

The new fuse box means all the wires have been messed with....oh gawwd.....

Is the brake light supposed to light with the parking brake?
I don't know if I don't know this, because none of my vehicles weren't working like that, or if because after I fixed the parking brake, I never used it again.
Its my understanding that both the emergency brake switch (on pedal assy) and pressure differential safety switch (in distribution block or prop valve) use the brake warning lamp in the cluster. So if your parking brake pedal won't stay up all the way it turns that on. If the properly operating E brake is released and the lamp stays lit, theres been a brake leak or repair. I ain't worth a flip on how to wire stuff but I do have color GM diagrams for a similar A body a couple years later and wire colors were fairly common in that vintage. A harness place's website may have useful diagrams for you. If you have an unidentifiable wire, holler.

Here are toe board after grinding and body mount bracket in place pics from this morning on the 59 Pontiac-

 

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#22,943 ·
Its my understanding that both the emergency brake switch (on pedal assy) and pressure differential safety switch (in distribution block or prop valve) use the brake warning lamp in the cluster. So if your parking brake pedal won't stay up all the way it turns that on. If the properly operating E brake is released and the lamp stays lit, theres been a brake leak or repair. I ain't worth a flip on how to wire stuff but I do have color GM diagrams for a similar A body a couple years later and wire colors were fairly common in that vintage. A harness place's website may have useful diagrams for you. If you have an unidentifiable wire, holler.

Here are toe board after grinding and body mount bracket in place pics from this morning on the 59 Pontiac-

Thanks.

I just ordered the Hayne's Manual.
I use their diagrams all the time, even though there are the odd mistakes here and there.
 
#22,944 ·
Buddy, you just scared the crap out of me. Two hours after you posted this it dawned on me what you meant:sweat::sweat:

I just ran down to the shop to make sure all the rods were still on my shifter!

Whew, I most have had an old Muncie rod in my junk. All shifter rods are present and accounted for. To be honest, I didn't have a clue what I was cutting up. :thumbup:

John

Take an asprin and calm down,,lol,,i have some extras..:D:D:D
 
#22,945 ·
Buddy, you just scared the crap out of me. Two hours after you posted this it dawned on me what you meant:sweat::sweat:

I just ran down to the shop to make sure all the rods were still on my shifter!

Whew, I most have had an old Muncie rod in my junk. All shifter rods are present and accounted for. To be honest, I didn't have a clue what I was cutting up. :thumbup:

John
OMG, That would suck. Sounds like something I would do.:sweat:
 
#22,946 ·
I am SO envious of the Muncie / Comp Plus / 454 brewing. Thats the right stuff, man.:cool:

Better pics. I need to cut tacks and clamp bracket to rail better with body weight on. And yeah I can trim length of this and make the other to match. Temporary bolts and bushings are tiny but it will have sleeved bushings here, I believe. Think I will plug weld top and inside and edges on the outside of the frame rail. Toe boards and front floor frame are all done and trans tunnel front patch to firewall is next. I'll continue working on things besides the floor to keep project momentum as we wind down the fabrication, and simplified ideas are emerging to address the remaining unknown clearance and placement items like exhaust and seats. The 59 Cat is on it's way to looking more like one again.:)

I say a cover plate over the open front of the firewall mount box and one on bottom of the bracket between gussets would look nice, what say you?







 
#22,947 ·
I am SO envious of the Muncie / Comp Plus / 454 brewing. Thats the right stuff, man.:cool:

Better pics. I need to cut tacks and clamp bracket to rail better with body weight on. And yeah I can trim length of this and make the other to match. Temporary bolts and bushings are tiny but it will have sleeved bushings here, I believe. Think I will plug weld top and inside and edges on the outside of the frame rail. Toe boards and front floor frame are all done and trans tunnel front patch to firewall is next. I'll continue working on things besides the floor to keep project momentum as we wind down the fabrication, and simplified ideas are emerging to address the remaining unknown clearance and placement items like exhaust and seats. The 59 Cat is on it's way to looking more like one again.:)

I say a cover plate over the open front of the firewall mount box and one on bottom of the bracket between gussets would look nice, what say you?
One vote to cover it.
Looks like heck.
 
#22,951 ·
The same "IT " you described above.

a cover plate over the open front of the firewall mount box and one on bottom of the bracket between gussets would look nice, what say you?

Both places then? I described two pieces. One over the open box on the firewall that faces forward, and one on the frame bracket, underneath facing the ground. Between the triangular side pieces, hiding the area where mount nuts are visible from underneath. So all thats visible are edges of bushings from top or bottom. Its a show car and mirrors under it are a possibility but as far as I know the firewall will stay all stock.
 
#22,952 ·
I got the slice I did in the cab door jamb tacked in place and the door fits perfect.

My dear wife went to the welding supply place and got my oxy bottle swapped out so I have a torch tomorrow night to weld it up.

Brian
 
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#22,955 ·
What do you mean "cover the front end?"

Brian
He is referring to making a cover for the front body mount.

John

I found this on Ebay. The add did not say what it's application was but I thought it may work well for me. It makes no false claim as to application or horsepower.
 

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#22,956 ·
Both places then? I described two pieces. One over the open box on the firewall that faces forward, and one on the frame bracket, underneath facing the ground. Between the triangular side pieces, hiding the area where mount nuts are visible from underneath. So all thats visible are edges of bushings from top or bottom. Its a show car and mirrors under it are a possibility but as far as I know the firewall will stay all stock.
At least the foward facing bracket,probably not the one facing down,
 
#22,957 ·
If it's a show car, rip the factory brackets off the car and start from scratch.

Fully box the lowers with sleeves for the bolts to go thru.

Cut the "cups" off that hook over the frame rails and just weld the mounts directly to the frame rails.

When you mention show car, I can't hold back, sorry....
 
#22,958 ·
John, I like the stickers with color better but understand about false claims.

I really really wanted to get rid of the mount boxes on the 59, the opportunity to do so is perfect. But when asking about firewall stuff I got the "Whatever is cheapest." the only answer I have for that is zero touch. So I went with that.

I don't understand why I would want to fully box the bracket and use such long bolts through tubes... and leave them showing. Do I have that right?

The tab that goes over the top of the frame can go away in about a minute. The reason it is there is because of how far out it reaches. Must be 2-3 times farther away from the rail than most cars. Even GM went with two bolts and bushings there. My thought is that with so much weight and leverage involved, I would prefer all that force to have to twist the rail rather than having all that prying and bouncing force against one weld.

I don't present my ideas as best but I do apply thought and have speakable reasons for them. Without doing that I can't gather the first opinion. I value those highly. So thanks for your opinions, gents. The question is open. I'll mention covers quick and quietly and see if theres any interest. It would have been so easy to just tie to the new floor frame and make new mount stands.
 
#22,959 ·
Oh. Thought more about boxing the brace and I get it. No long bolts. This being awake crap is over rated. I'll ask chassis man if the hook over the frame is silly. If he says yes I'll chop it off or start over.

Thanks for the opinions, guys. I'll use the button to give you thanks next login on other device. Phone won't let me use it.
 
#22,960 ·
John, I like the stickers with color better but understand about false claims.

I really really wanted to get rid of the mount boxes on the 59, the opportunity to do so is perfect. But when asking about firewall stuff I got the "Whatever is cheapest." the only answer I have for that is zero touch. So I went with that.

I don't understand why I would want to fully box the bracket and use such long bolts through tubes... and leave them showing. Do I have that right?

The tab that goes over the top of the frame can go away in about a minute. The reason it is there is because of how far out it reaches. Must be 2-3 times farther away from the rail than most cars. Even GM went with two bolts and bushings there. My thought is that with so much weight and leverage involved, I would prefer all that force to have to twist the rail rather than having all that prying and bouncing force against one weld.

I don't present my ideas as best but I do apply thought and have speakable reasons for them. Without doing that I can't gather the first opinion. I value those highly. So thanks for your opinions, gents. The question is open. I'll mention covers quick and quietly and see if theres any interest. It would have been so easy to just tie to the new floor frame and make new mount stands.
Yes, long bolts thru, but I would of course source flat head Allan drive bolts for a clean look.
This is just stuff a guy that has time and no budget to worry about may do. Or a shop with clients that open wallets(must be nice to find these guys)

So, since you're on a budget, leave the rail mounts as is. Maybe only close the open ends.
Quick and easy folded caps for the cab brackets would do the trick. Just make sure there are drain holes if this is also a driver in the rain.
 
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