Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board - Reply to Topic
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans Advertise
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine> s10 motor mounts
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Thread: s10 motor mounts Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
08-27-2018 10:16 AM
aj06bolt12r I've got a 97 S-10 with an L31 Vortec block 350. Im running an NV3500 5 speed transmission. Exhaust isnt that big of a deal with this transmission.

Im running the Trans Dapt engine brackets with the 2.8 mounts. The Trans dapt brackets give you the option of mounting the engine raised up about an inch and a half to give extra oil pan clearance or in the stock position.

I recently lowered my engine down from the raised position to the stock position. My oil pan still clears no problem and I have a ton more clearance from the firewall and trans tunnel for the header collectors and the distributor.

The NV3500 does sit very close to the passenger side lower control arm mount with the engine in the lower position. Right next to where the clutch release cylinder goes. Had to heat up the mount with a torch and bend it out of the way.

I'm running dual mandrel bent 2.5" exhaust with two 3" chambered mufflers. Ran both pipes down the passenger side away from the fuel tank and over the axle.
07-01-2018 10:37 AM
eric32 I once ran side pipes on a 86 s10 2wd and it was a pain to hook up exhaust to them with full length headers and I ended up having holes cut in the fame to get the exhaust through to hook them up. After many burnt legs and hated having the holes in the frame they were removed and the frame welded back up and never used again. They can be made to work better then what I had them setup as but to me it was more trouble then what they were worth.
06-26-2018 11:27 AM
1953bigblock I don't care about side pipes either but I know with a 5 speed it is going to be hard to do I been looking for headers they fit automatic only I will have to call and find out
06-26-2018 10:08 AM
2001Blazer4x4
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1953bigblock View Post
Thanks mine is only a 2 wheel drive I know exhaust would be hard to do with the fuel tank in the way that is why I thought of going with side pipes most of the headers they say they don't fit manual transmission I will have to call to make sure
My S10 is a 2WD. My Blazer is a 4WD. I've been talking about the S10.

You can either run a single 3" pipe down the passenger side, or cross the driver's side exhaust to the right side, right behind the trans and run both pipes through either a single muffler or dual mufflers. Both Summit and Jegs have such a kit to fit the Hedman shorty's. I used to have that setup. Again, you will have problem with manual trans. You will probably end up with some kind of stock cast exhaust manifolds with a manual trans (Camaro of some year I believe works - Google is your friend) and can run things down the passenger side the same way but will need some custom work. I emplore you to not do side pipes on a S10. People laugh at them.

Problem with multiple core radiators is that they get thicker and give less clearance. If you are going to retain A/C then you need to figure out where the condenser will go before you fit a radiator and you will probably best retain the clutch type belt driven fan. I think the Jags that Run book addresses that.
06-25-2018 05:17 PM
1953bigblock I'm going to use a corvette 4 core one I don't want any problems with it
06-25-2018 04:17 PM
Jojo'sdaddy Itís a first gen, but hereís the clearance with the engine mounted all the way back. My radiator is just a hair too big to recess, so Iím waiting for a non rainy day to pull it out and clearance the upper support. This is how I got it btw and it runs about 215. I want to find a Taurus fan and shroud.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
06-25-2018 02:53 PM
1953bigblock Thanks mine is only a 2 wheel drive I know exhaust would be hard to do with the fuel tank in the way that is why I thought of going with side pipes most of the headers they say they don't fit manual transmission I will have to call to make sure
06-25-2018 02:46 PM
2001Blazer4x4
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1953bigblock View Post
My has a 5 spd with a 4.3 v6 I might go with side pipes
Good luck and best wishes for a successful swap!
06-25-2018 02:41 PM
1953bigblock My has a 5 spd with a 4.3 v6 I might go with side pipes
06-25-2018 02:38 PM
2001Blazer4x4
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1953bigblock View Post
Thanks for the info I'm going to run a vortec 5.7 and a 5 spd transmission I would like to put the motor as far as back as I can I want to run ac
Manual trans complicates things immensely for exhaust. Why few people do it. Better to go with automatic, if vehicle had one originally. If S10 was original 5-speed I would make sure you want to do this swap before you get started. You won't get A/C and a radiator in stock location to work with a V8. They don't go back that far. In a S10 the engine goes where the engine fits, and where everything attached to it clears!
06-25-2018 02:35 PM
1953bigblock Thanks for the info I'm going to run a vortec 5.7 and a 5 spd transmission I would like to put the motor as far as back as I can I want to run ac
06-25-2018 02:24 PM
2001Blazer4x4
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1953bigblock View Post
OK I found motor mounts and frame mounts I'm going to use s10 2.8 mounts that are aftermarket ones that has no rubber in them. I been doing a lot of reading how to get my 5.7 vortec wired up don't look to be to hard to do. Sound like I have to get my ecm re flashed or get it re programed.
The Vortec swap is supposed to be a nice one. Pretty much uses your existing wiring harness and all accessories with only minor mods to the wiring harness. As Eric said, the radiator is best put into the "forward" position by modification of the existing radiator support or you can buy aluminum ones that that fit "forward" without modification. This is required to clear the extra two cylinders you are putting in the front of the engine bay.

Which radiator and fans to use is highly contested. I started out with a swap radiator from Superior with two electric fans and a shroud. Wouldn't cool my 383 on the street. Went to a 7-blade flexalite metal flex fan and built a full shroud from a Summit kit, and that was better but still wouldn't cool on the street. So bought a new radiator support and cut it up to install a 1985 Corvette radiator from Jags that Run and built another shroud. Still wouldn't cool on the street. Finally went to a Taurus 2-speed fan and shroud, along with an electric water pump. Still wont' cool on the street, but I don't care so much anymore - only been racing the vehicle for some time now and it's turned into more of a racer with the door bars to climb over, and the fuel cell in the bed - but now I can cool it down between rounds. I really think those single core radiators Jags that Run recommends are for the birds. I bought their book and did everything that they said, but just can't cool my particular engine, which is 405 to the rear wheels as of last Winter. It just keeps going up and up the longer that I drive, even at speed with the Taurus fan on high and I have no inner fenders - so I really don't think I have an airflow problem. If you are making less HP (and it seems you are talking stock motor), then you probably won't have nearly so much problems with cooling unless you want to retain and run the A/C. In that case you will need to move the condenser way up front. People have done it.

For a swap without motor plates, the 2.8 frame mounts and the adjustable mounts as sold by Jags that Run or Transdapt, or any other number of sellers that require the 2.8 frame mounts are the way to go. Note that they have two height positions. Putting the motor high in front will clear the stock pan, but will give you an inappropriate drivetrain angle (trans pointing below the rear diff). This will be even worse if you have lowering blocks or springs in the rear. However, putting the front of the motor in the other holes will require you to cut off the lower part of the mount and use an aftermarket S10 Swap oil pan. Sorry but that's the only way to get the driveline angles right unless you build your own mounts and put the engine so far back that the oil pan will clear. But this causes problems with trans tunnel and header (to a-arm and firewall) clearance, and of course you need to modify the driveshaft because everything is sitting back further. My advice, just pony up an buy the Milodon S10 swap pan and oil pick up. You'll be money ahead and glad that you did. I use the Milodon pan with the engine mounts in the upper holes with the ears cut off. NO beating of the trans tunnel, Headers actually fit without rubbing on the firewall or frame (I have had both shorty's and now have fenderwells on it) and don't get crushed by the a-frame like the ones that were on my vehicle when I first bought it. If you lower your rear 3", you can use a 3/4" spacer from Jags that Run above the trans mount to keep the driveline angles correct. Also be aware that the swap mounts position the motor about 1" to the passenger side, but I believe factory is also there as a laser pointer on the trans output shaft shows that the tranny points exactly (right/left) below the pinion yoke.

So yes, the radiator setup, engine mounts, and exhaust are the critical things in a S10 swap. they all have to work out.

Good luck with yours.
06-25-2018 09:33 AM
1953bigblock OK I found motor mounts and frame mounts I'm going to use s10 2.8 mounts that are aftermarket ones that has no rubber in them. I been doing a lot of reading how to get my 5.7 vortec wired up don't look to be to hard to do. Sound like I have to get my ecm re flashed or get it re programed.
06-25-2018 09:24 AM
eric32 Here is how my engine sits with those mounts all the way back.
06-25-2018 09:18 AM
1953bigblock I went to one of the s10 sites and asked couple questions and got treated like crap from them bunch of smart ***** never go back over there at least you guys will help someone out I thank you for that
This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:26 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.