|08-27-2018 11:16 AM|
I've got a 97 S-10 with an L31 Vortec block 350. Im running an NV3500 5 speed transmission. Exhaust isnt that big of a deal with this transmission.
Im running the Trans Dapt engine brackets with the 2.8 mounts. The Trans dapt brackets give you the option of mounting the engine raised up about an inch and a half to give extra oil pan clearance or in the stock position.
I recently lowered my engine down from the raised position to the stock position. My oil pan still clears no problem and I have a ton more clearance from the firewall and trans tunnel for the header collectors and the distributor.
The NV3500 does sit very close to the passenger side lower control arm mount with the engine in the lower position. Right next to where the clutch release cylinder goes. Had to heat up the mount with a torch and bend it out of the way.
I'm running dual mandrel bent 2.5" exhaust with two 3" chambered mufflers. Ran both pipes down the passenger side away from the fuel tank and over the axle.
|07-01-2018 11:37 AM|
|eric32||I once ran side pipes on a 86 s10 2wd and it was a pain to hook up exhaust to them with full length headers and I ended up having holes cut in the fame to get the exhaust through to hook them up. After many burnt legs and hated having the holes in the frame they were removed and the frame welded back up and never used again. They can be made to work better then what I had them setup as but to me it was more trouble then what they were worth.|
|06-26-2018 12:27 PM|
|1953bigblock||I don't care about side pipes either but I know with a 5 speed it is going to be hard to do I been looking for headers they fit automatic only I will have to call and find out|
|06-26-2018 11:08 AM|
You can either run a single 3" pipe down the passenger side, or cross the driver's side exhaust to the right side, right behind the trans and run both pipes through either a single muffler or dual mufflers. Both Summit and Jegs have such a kit to fit the Hedman shorty's. I used to have that setup. Again, you will have problem with manual trans. You will probably end up with some kind of stock cast exhaust manifolds with a manual trans (Camaro of some year I believe works - Google is your friend) and can run things down the passenger side the same way but will need some custom work. I emplore you to not do side pipes on a S10. People laugh at them.
Problem with multiple core radiators is that they get thicker and give less clearance. If you are going to retain A/C then you need to figure out where the condenser will go before you fit a radiator and you will probably best retain the clutch type belt driven fan. I think the Jags that Run book addresses that.
|06-25-2018 06:17 PM|
|1953bigblock||I'm going to use a corvette 4 core one I don't want any problems with it|
|06-25-2018 05:17 PM|
Itís a first gen, but hereís the clearance with the engine mounted all the way back. My radiator is just a hair too big to recess, so Iím waiting for a non rainy day to pull it out and clearance the upper support. This is how I got it btw and it runs about 215. I want to find a Taurus fan and shroud.
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|06-25-2018 03:53 PM|
|1953bigblock||Thanks mine is only a 2 wheel drive I know exhaust would be hard to do with the fuel tank in the way that is why I thought of going with side pipes most of the headers they say they don't fit manual transmission I will have to call to make sure|
|06-25-2018 03:46 PM|
|06-25-2018 03:41 PM|
|1953bigblock||My has a 5 spd with a 4.3 v6 I might go with side pipes|
|06-25-2018 03:38 PM|
|06-25-2018 03:35 PM|
|1953bigblock||Thanks for the info I'm going to run a vortec 5.7 and a 5 spd transmission I would like to put the motor as far as back as I can I want to run ac|
|06-25-2018 03:24 PM|
Which radiator and fans to use is highly contested. I started out with a swap radiator from Superior with two electric fans and a shroud. Wouldn't cool my 383 on the street. Went to a 7-blade flexalite metal flex fan and built a full shroud from a Summit kit, and that was better but still wouldn't cool on the street. So bought a new radiator support and cut it up to install a 1985 Corvette radiator from Jags that Run and built another shroud. Still wouldn't cool on the street. Finally went to a Taurus 2-speed fan and shroud, along with an electric water pump. Still wont' cool on the street, but I don't care so much anymore - only been racing the vehicle for some time now and it's turned into more of a racer with the door bars to climb over, and the fuel cell in the bed - but now I can cool it down between rounds. I really think those single core radiators Jags that Run recommends are for the birds. I bought their book and did everything that they said, but just can't cool my particular engine, which is 405 to the rear wheels as of last Winter. It just keeps going up and up the longer that I drive, even at speed with the Taurus fan on high and I have no inner fenders - so I really don't think I have an airflow problem. If you are making less HP (and it seems you are talking stock motor), then you probably won't have nearly so much problems with cooling unless you want to retain and run the A/C. In that case you will need to move the condenser way up front. People have done it.
For a swap without motor plates, the 2.8 frame mounts and the adjustable mounts as sold by Jags that Run or Transdapt, or any other number of sellers that require the 2.8 frame mounts are the way to go. Note that they have two height positions. Putting the motor high in front will clear the stock pan, but will give you an inappropriate drivetrain angle (trans pointing below the rear diff). This will be even worse if you have lowering blocks or springs in the rear. However, putting the front of the motor in the other holes will require you to cut off the lower part of the mount and use an aftermarket S10 Swap oil pan. Sorry but that's the only way to get the driveline angles right unless you build your own mounts and put the engine so far back that the oil pan will clear. But this causes problems with trans tunnel and header (to a-arm and firewall) clearance, and of course you need to modify the driveshaft because everything is sitting back further. My advice, just pony up an buy the Milodon S10 swap pan and oil pick up. You'll be money ahead and glad that you did. I use the Milodon pan with the engine mounts in the upper holes with the ears cut off. NO beating of the trans tunnel, Headers actually fit without rubbing on the firewall or frame (I have had both shorty's and now have fenderwells on it) and don't get crushed by the a-frame like the ones that were on my vehicle when I first bought it. If you lower your rear 3", you can use a 3/4" spacer from Jags that Run above the trans mount to keep the driveline angles correct. Also be aware that the swap mounts position the motor about 1" to the passenger side, but I believe factory is also there as a laser pointer on the trans output shaft shows that the tranny points exactly (right/left) below the pinion yoke.
So yes, the radiator setup, engine mounts, and exhaust are the critical things in a S10 swap. they all have to work out.
Good luck with yours.
|06-25-2018 10:33 AM|
|1953bigblock||OK I found motor mounts and frame mounts I'm going to use s10 2.8 mounts that are aftermarket ones that has no rubber in them. I been doing a lot of reading how to get my 5.7 vortec wired up don't look to be to hard to do. Sound like I have to get my ecm re flashed or get it re programed.|
|06-25-2018 10:24 AM|
|eric32||Here is how my engine sits with those mounts all the way back.|
|06-25-2018 10:18 AM|
|1953bigblock||I went to one of the s10 sites and asked couple questions and got treated like crap from them bunch of smart ***** never go back over there at least you guys will help someone out I thank you for that|
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