|07-08-2018 10:46 AM|
|70-K5||I put the rod back in the lower hole. I checked last night quickly that there wasnt a lower hole. Without a flashlight in a dark garage I couldn't tell if there was a hole higher up the pedal.|
|07-08-2018 10:43 AM|
Did you check or change the pedal ratio?
You need 6 to 1 for non boosted. 4.5 to 1 for boosted.
Usually a new linkage hole in the pedal about 1 1/4 inches lower helps.
|07-08-2018 09:18 AM|
I need to look more at this current setup. the si ge reservoir has a single line output to a T, that's it. Originally drum/drum setup, that was factory.
A dual MC with a proportioning valve might be the ticket but another can of worms.
or maybe it is a bad booster with no progressive power. the pedal moves about 1/2 way with no response, then there is only a small amount of travel that does all the stopping.
|07-08-2018 09:07 AM|
|07-08-2018 07:37 AM|
You can tone it down a bit by adjusting the pin between the booster and M/C. Doesn't take much, just screw it in one turn.
|07-08-2018 06:02 AM|
Couple of quick thoughts, MC should have 2 reservoirs, if it is nose diving could have the wrong combination valve also..
Gave up on the coupe ?
|07-07-2018 05:39 PM|
Replaced booster, now brakes work too good
Recently bought a 65 Chevelle, well built car, not like my last purchase but had a hissing from the brake booster.
Brakes still worked ok but had a massive air leak.
Picked up a replacement booster this morning, all the visual specs checked out so I brought it home, cleaned it and painted it.
After getting it installed and going for a test drive, I almost put myself through the windshield!
It is a disc/drum car with a single MC. ZZ4 crate with a 700r4.
Did I get the wrong MC? Of I am super careful I can modulate the brakes to a smooth stop but just a slight over application and it is the opposite of safe....