|Today 08:01 PM|
That was a thought I had too. But the original dogleg flat was one inch wide. So is mine.
The door jamb steps control fore / aft position. Allowing them to do so puts the bottom edges of the cab corners nicely straight, across the back. And they jive with the bottoms of the inners. But a wild card remains in the deck, undealt...
Late in day discovery was that with all that in place and the cab back panel patch's forward flange floating between pan and brace... the bottom of the back wall of the cab has to be pushed forward oh, say 3/4" to get the flange in far enough to match the stock distance to the brace and the angle on the inners. It goes and acts like it belongs there so no worry. I think I am pushing against the crown of the panel and when fastened it will give proper tension over the face of the panel.
But thats likely to have some effect. I can let patch tops float and manipulate that but still don't see it going away completely. Thats how come I asked. Its still a ways off from nailing things down but in the last few days I have gotten solid components in place for this end of the cab and have something to work with there now.
So we shall see!
|Today 07:17 PM|
|Today 07:12 PM|
Hard to tell, but it looks like your dog leg piece is too wide. The pic looks like the cab corner curves in as it goes down.
Remember, I'm just going by the pics.
|Today 05:31 PM|
Thats more like the precision level I'll need, if I can keep it smooth like that. I'd make a mess with the wheel. I think one of these pics shows again what we're talking about-
Doors, and the Model A fenders and aprons, are back from blasting. It was a high humidity day, of course.
|Today 02:54 PM|
Here's crown added to a piece using only a hammer on a dolly.
|Today 01:56 PM|
|123pugsy||A little edge shrinking will also cause a crown inboard from the edge but not too far in.|
|Today 11:59 AM|
|Today 11:55 AM|
I got the dogleg thing bent and other piece cut for the left side-
Doing what I can to create symmetry by matching that up to the right-
Wonder about the back of the cross brace prevailed as I try to design in my mind, so I trimmed cab 3/4" within the new panel edge-
Bent on the left from that other damage. Aha-
Right side is pitted more. Underside is also pitted-
Man, if the brace wasn't slightly arched, I'd replace it with tubing. I may chop the ends off it. But I believe after blasting, enough structural integrity will remain. To re-use it. But I'd like to give it a little more support somehow. So I cleaned it up enough to make a better judgement. The whole thing can stay but must be blasted on both sides-
The curve is near nothing across the middle, hard to show. I could probably have it straight across there but do think it needs the slight arch out on the ends-
|Today 11:46 AM|
It can only go in the wheel one way. Horizontally.
Grab a piece of scrap, bend an edge in the brake and wheel it a bit.
10 minutes will give you possibly large dividends if you have to planish the whole patch by hand after it's welded in place.
|Today 11:38 AM|
Thanks for the input. Only idea I have other than wheeling is to, now that I can have the bottom edge connected, push out the top of the patch at the apex of the cab corner radius and tack there. The patch panels went on and had bottoms nicely parallel to the world so I hate to disturb that. And they fit nice at the door jamb as well.
It is difficult to judge just how much of what I see will go away when final trim is done and overlap is eliminated. I think at least the right side is beyond that much.
Recalling the A door skins and roof insert, those panels didn't look like they would work until they were on. In some cases it is as if the manufacturer knows what will happen when welded and builds compensation into the panel. If you know what I mean.
|Today 08:13 AM|
Crown comes from wheeling the center of a panel more than the edges. If you can't get close to the bend, light planishing with a hammer on dolly will work to get the last inch or so.
Looks like you can get the most in the wheel.
Very lightly, sneak up on it.
|Today 06:37 AM|
Thanks. How do I fix the lack of crown in the cab corners? They are straight, the cab is curved. You'd have to be blind to miss it.
I think if I wheel the top of the panels the bottom will no longer fit.
The panels are not tall enough to allow planishing. The center piece is.
I think making new faces for the cab corners, crowned and taller, is the only solution.
Only one response probably won't help me much but this is the forum I picked to stay with. If you have an idea, write it please. Thanks.
|Yesterday 05:49 PM|
|123pugsy||Nice corner. Looks so good with new steel.|
|Yesterday 05:10 PM|
I am starting to get some totally tubular ideas about the new pillar stuff.
|Yesterday 11:42 AM|
This is a critical dimension area thats just about rotted away-
So it has old shag hanging and a fill in tab tacked with the pillar bottom location mirroring the fairly undisturbed and intact other side. But it is holding my seat for me for now.
While we're looking at shaggies, this shot is just to remind us what was there. Its the left side-
Lop off that shag and screw an inner cab corner on, this is what ya got-
So I am making the bottom filler in two pieces-
The piece connecting cross brace to inner cab corner will just be a 90° plug weld strip with curve and will be the meat in a brace and pan sandwich. The plan is for nothing to show around the edges but pan, from underneath.
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