|Today 06:21 PM|
|Today 11:46 AM|
|123pugsy||I'm no help here, but got my ears up.|
|Today 11:01 AM|
Thinking through next things and wishing for some input on interior attachment. Any thoughts you may have had based on what you've seen here are welcome.
A well known and justly so custom interior specialist in a neighboring state normally handles (beautifully) interior needs for us in this type of build scenario. I will be attaching body to structure at door openings soon and before I go there:
What kind of flange or groove or flat and facing which way on what side of which corner... and stuff like that... do you want? To build in from with upholstery and carpet.
I suppose these are questions to ask the man doing the job but he is busy and so am I and I am a greenhorn on that part. So do you know any general rules or popular methods or have any tips?
Along with the door openings, soon I will wonder if we'll want tabs to clip a cardboard headliner to, or good places to attach bows for that kind of headliner. Then do you need an extra flange to attach push on molding around the windshield?
Et cetera. I am listening.
Fortunately, around the side and back glass and in the trunk jambs, I have satisfactory mental pictures of what I want to do. If I can generate a coherent specific inquiry with visuals, I may make an interior post and have some multiple choice options. I figure the more I can do while I am already doing, the better it can be for the interior guy.
|Yesterday 01:00 PM|
Realized that in my effort at continuity I had left out a pic. Imagine that.
I matched the curve of the angled strip to the gennie cowl lip using jaws. What I envisioned really is the long side of the strip (1"wide) having another 3" on it and another plug weld flange at the firewall. But that area is just too "up in the air" yet so I didn't want to close it off. Just as easy to connect my cowl lip to proper fill in pieces later and only make them once.
By the way, as you can see there, the old cowl lip had rust under the chrome molding. The difference between the new and old lips is where the length of body difference is compensated for, that results from going to flush doors from overlapping stockers. Theres some sketchy Model A "tech" for ya.
|Yesterday 10:28 AM|
|idrivejunk||You are correct, sir!|
|Yesterday 10:02 AM|
|Too Many Projects||Boxes are quarter panels...|
|02-14-2020 08:58 PM|
Pretty much all of that lacks some finishing work to be done with parts off but you get the picture. Cowl flange was the simplest I could think of. Much distracting conversations with happy customers today. I'll let you guess whats in the boxes.
|02-13-2020 06:16 PM|
|02-13-2020 12:36 PM|
Late start, car trouble
|02-12-2020 07:13 PM|
This don't look a whole lot different but I reckon thats as tight as any of them get, body to apron-
This view shows that if nothing else, the gap is fairly even. The silver sliver under the door is that sill I showed you. Weatherstrip there. Anyway yeah this view is less complimentary of the lower body bead and patchwork but heres the underneath gap-
Be the right rear tire again. The screw row-
Whoopty poo, eh? Here in the foreground, in about a half inch square theres four holes, each with either a drill bit or screw broken off in them. Despite physically "overdoing it" in my efforts, I am unable to make screw holes in the desired zone under the cowl portion of the body. Too many oddly angled and varied thick layers and welds in that spot. Snuck one through from the top but its clear in by the frame. Oh well.
Midafternoon, I reached the point seen above. It became obvious that I now had two areas of back pain going and the floor so littered with tools and screws I had to draw the line. T'was a gloomy wet cold day and by four, both other body guys were also ready to give out. Tough, physical tasks for the house. By then I had picked up the mess but was also plum wore to a nub. Must find hour long rolly chair task-
That is "me" carnage from the rough sketch phase when I thought the right front fender would not clear the control arm. Seemed to fit the remaining time then, but this herezaz fer as I got-
The fender came to mind because that was the next thing I needed to do, hang it then try the running board.
|02-12-2020 12:37 PM|
I didn't bring enough drill bits to this rodeo. This task cost four so far.
Determined how I want to fasten the apron and am working towards that. Pic shows newly trimmed edge and row of new pilot holes that run along the edge of the floor rails. I now plan to slip the apron between pan and floor rail. That means apron has to go on before front fender and running board (which is normal anyhow). Seeing the edge of the pan in the under-body gap wasn't helping the look but doing it this way should, and the screws eliminate the need for welding the pan edge to the floor rails.
I did have the presence of mind to mirror cut and drill marks onto the left apron. If I can ever get screws threaded in underneath so I can take them back out, I'll hang the running board brackets and have a go at fastening everything on the right. You follow all that?
|02-11-2020 08:29 PM|
She don't look much different here. Going by what I accomplished this day, a feller could make a case accusing me of just vise gripping my shirt sleeve to the frame and having a nap.
Must be what I needed because I have had some ideas popping up since I clocked out. Theres one I think would be neat but ypu'll have to dig through the whole ton of ore for it... keep reading
This heres the right apron, upside down. And a blown or big inch Pontiac loving shoe.
See how I just scored and folded the part that sat on top of the frame back onto itself? I had to sand it there because of close calls to getting paint chips in eyes.
Anyhow, see the row of oh... plug weld sized holes? Them was my pilots. Be the right rear tar and stikyerhed underthar. See?
I'll grant ya that those will hold the apron tighter to the body at it's outside edge tighter than just laying over the frame... but man, this gap is still too much for me -
Heres the apron off and marked at the body edge. I want the pan plug welded to the body a half inch in from the edge, then a row of screws (or 1/4" bolts if I can tap the tubing the whole way along the row) 3/4 or 1" in.
Idea 1: Use 45 degree step die to add an up step at the body edge, on the apron, at rocker and cowl. If it can be made to fit tight enough so you don't really see the step down.
Idea 2, Reinforcing strip that goes on under the bolt heads and has a bead at the body edge. To pull the apron tight as possible at the body edge whether indented or not.
Idea 3 here is the one I like best, and none of the ideas conflict really-
I had made these door sills to provide a "flat" on which to continue the planned perimeter weatherstrip which contacts the folded door edge on all sides. Same as the skinny stuff in the trunk jambs.
But I got flustrated and tossed them in the maybe later pile because they couldn't be made symMATTrical. Since then, I've trimmed the other door bottom to clear the apron. I tacked this one up there and it still fit well enough to reapproach the idea.
Idea three: Bend a sill into the apron there and have it come up over the floor rail. No visible gap under the door at all. Just a weatherstrip across it. Even if it has to be a seperate piece rather than just bending the apron, I like the idea well enough to pursue it. I'll re-trim the apron anyway with the new row of mount holes so why not? Leastwise, I think it will further the frustration for stock Model A drivers who see it and find out it's steel.
Spots where the right side fenders need work to play nice with adjacent panels. What I am most curious of is whether the running board bracket nuts will still be valid after shifting the body around. I had to be a little mean to it to squeeze the board between the fenders this time. And I'll get to that and deal with it if not, but after any apron shifting.
That is at rear, these are at front-
|02-11-2020 06:52 PM|
Hah! Only when I'm not trying, with the camera.
I hoped there would be a day when she started taking better pictures.
Can not wait to see it in grey polyester. Should look crisp as a new dollar bill. Or bring all the dark sins into light.
Thanks! I just IDea-bombed your thread.
|02-11-2020 02:22 PM|
Lines line up real purdy like in this pic.
|02-11-2020 12:33 PM|
Had a good laugh at myself first thing. Took the socket out of the gas nozzle hole and flipped the lid shut. Only it didn't. It just barely cleared the gas cap before, and now of course it doesn't.
Mike walks by, I share the funny. He says trim the cap. So I do-
Theres that. Current scene involves right apron mounting and I hope everything still fits but ain't gonna hold my breath. Been breaking drill bits and getting crap in my eyes a lot so far but pilot holes are in.
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