|Yesterday 04:03 PM|
Woops, left something out I been making a stink about...
Boss suggested for the hood seal a larger version of the fairly wimpy small D shaped perimeter seal on doors and trunk. Probably because it will just look more natural than the wimpy kind being more similar to the stock type in size but in keeping with the clean look. I told him to let me know when he lands on something in particular.
So there was movement on that stopping point. At this point, I won't ask again if building a cowl sides and grille shell hood seal that are featureless, to be used without hood sides only, is what we want to do. I will go with the assumption that like stock, the hood seal goes all the way down the sides.
|Yesterday 02:23 PM|
Only snapped one pic Friday, this is a real nitty gritty part that nobody needs to get dragged through the whole thought process on but suffice it to say this will be done when its done. I tossed the pieces on the bench and got a pic at end of day with a tad of unrelated disgust. Among corroding situations in personal life and due frustrations with this task being crazy access and contours... found out I may be back on the Pantera. Car and tech have reached a stalemate on it, it seems.
I am comfortable with that but quitting time came at a very poor time with lots of little fit adjustments in process on this. I tried to leave myself clues where to pick up when I get back to it but I do hate doing that. Breaks my stride, what stride there is. But I am spoiled in that respect.
Heres the picture. I got the pocket fitting more closely all around and reached a point where new pocket attaches to mock up bracket as the hinge would. Guesses were misses until the third try on getting hinge mount holes in the pocket that jive with the ones in the mock up bracket. I was way off but within range. Got that though. Man them screws are tiny!
That being done, pocket was in position. Went around moving edges in relation to the quarter and looking to screw it in with a bracket. I figure if I establish two mounting points with new brackets, I can remove the mock up bracket and get down to business.
Thats where I am at, ready to remove mock up bracket and screw the hinge and lid on instead. Hinge position marked, trimming of pocket required. The bracket I made with the pocket will end up being temporary because the pocket ends up against the tubing and that bracket will be replaced by the corner filler piece which completes the tank area to cabin bulkhead. And it provides one weld spot for the pocket, as does the tubing. In the trunk, next door to the trunk hinge pocket I put one tab off the trunk jamb and thats as far as I got. One more significant bracket should do. Setting up the magnetic latch hopefully won't be a starting over level of adventure, but I anticipate bumps in that road.
Its all just road, though. I'm down. One of these years I gotta take some time off though. These long haul jobs just consume your everything and then poof, theres another summer of prime life gone and another job waiting. Just in case any of you were raised by a TV kinda like me... that whole thing where bosses walk up and say hey, this would be a good time for you to have a break. Why don't you take some time off? ... yeah, that never happens. Not in this century. I a guy can get time off, it will only be when he and his car are broke.
|09-19-2019 05:50 PM|
It is coming along OK, only had to split it open on one corner after cut/fold/weld/try. I made the pattern from inside, never looking in the trunk so thats where that is. The edge that runs under the trunk bead was crooked. All the edges are bend to match but I had a decent time of it thus far.
The idea here is to create not only a pocket for latch, hinge,and neck mounting. The perimeter where pocket meets quarter is intended to be a seam sealer bed, leaving an even and tightish fit against the backside of the outer panel. So the pocket and lid are an appendage of the inner structure. As an ant crawls, its a long way to a pocket mount point if you start at the flap. In other words.
End of day-
I put it out where you can see it. Cut that hole with a cutoff wheel only.
The latch and flap are off but the temporary bracket is all still there. Neck angle looks OK but is flexible. It is sitting all the way down in the pocket, not attached. My hinge hole is in position but the holes will be higher than those guesses you see.
Here is the view I've been showing. From driver's seat but with head on backwards.
Moving the view straight down to show the 3 temporary pieces. In the above pic you also see a bracket intended to go on top of the tubing there. Or under. Whichever way but loose.
Never mind the sweat rust. I try to keep it at bay.
Below, you are perched atop the left wheel tub looking forward. I am contemplating whether to use a hose for the pocket drain, or hard line it to the floor. Meh, another day. I have already stopped myself twice now from taking the driver's door off and shucking the quarter. Should get down to that business next week so it will be even less fun to look at. For a spell, but just you wait.
This has a ways to go. Still focused on the front and a bracket or three.
|09-19-2019 11:26 AM|
This angled strip goes 3" forward of the firewall and sits under the seal bed at front of cowl-
Fuel filler neck pocket (and a bracket) took a couple hours to work out in posterboard without being too fussy over it. Metal origami, anyone?
Setting up the latch may be another matter entirely.
|09-19-2019 07:13 AM|
|idrivejunk||Left phone at shop yesterday, thats why the feed stoppage like a stovepiped .45 auto. I got those tacked in, made a panel to connect cowl top and firewall and am fussing over gas neck pocket now. Will resume fire at lunch.|
|09-18-2019 11:22 AM|
Right rail is up there now, too
Asked Mike if he wanted any of this in tubing. Just the vertical, he says.
|09-17-2019 06:13 PM|
Guy at work says the red 33 is out front so I grabs my phone next chance I gets and I moseys out the front door. Boy am I glad nobody was around to see my jaw drop.
As the unintelligible gigglesmirkyness began to subside, and I ain't kidding I was giddy like a dog with separation anxiety... my Grandpas and Dad came to mind and right then got something in my eye for a sec but then I went back to work with a full charge in my batteries. Caught me a big enjoy off seeing this and in full sun, no less. Actually did have to get metal taken out of my eye way back when I worked this job three rustbuckets ago. Memories, hah!
It needs a couple touch up before the local show this weekend. Bike rally here.
Ain't she just some kinda mess?
Not responsible for retina damage, boys.
Roof looks like it turned out.
Deep breath. Ah, yep that was good stuff.
|09-17-2019 05:49 PM|
Could not resist screwing.
Its tucked under the visor up front. I beveled the leading edge.
Passenger side only lacks grinding, and it also fits. That was a snap!
That about wraps up the part before disassembly to finish and fuss over the structure and parts and get epoxy on all before putting it all back nice for keeps and doing the roof insert.
Speaking of roof insert... Stand by for bonus rod pix.
|09-17-2019 12:02 PM|
Drip rail tuck starts with a cardboard pattern which fits both sides (see right side of cardboard). Holding the template straight out flat from the drip rail indent in the roof. Rails came with the down bend at rear already done.
Scoring the floppy little buggers then cutting was touchy, trying to keep it right down the middle.
This is what I am doing here, slicing, overlapping, tax. Rails will eventually be attached via plug welds in holes in the roof sides (quarters).
The quarter inch nut on the tape is the spacer used inside the rail at clamp spots, and serves as a gauge by sliding along, inside the length of the rail. I just have a few tacks holding the pieces together, checking the shape created by splitting the rail then baby tapping the halves with jaws ever so lightly. Tapping with weight of handle was plenty. Stretcher on the inside half, shrinker on the outside one until both matched the template.
These will look less clunky than stockers, sticking out less. Seam sealer will hide any evil underneath them. Of course, they won't be pulled tight to the body until screwed on for welding. I thought about trimming the inner half at the white line and scooting the rail to the very top of the indent but not doing that will look better by filling out the indent more fully.
That looks good to go, to me at this point. Wasn't too tough, didn't know what to expect exactly so
|09-16-2019 06:29 PM|
Had the right front bracket off to finish welding in the 2" extension so I welded the nuts a little better and closed the end with 18 ga. while it was out. The rear brackets' top mounts are still just tacked.
I could certainly put some cute wee li'l gussets on those nuts but probably no need.
Heres the one closed end, which I did not get a pic of showing the end with it installed-
This is me, on top of...
... this, the driver's side front bracket-
Felt sturdy as any, to me. Here are the rest. Threw the bay door open for passenger side pix.
Yes there are plug weld holes on the top flanges. This makes 3 layers along the front of the mount channel.
I got a little start toward splitting each drip rail down the middle for the tuck. Marked em, anyway.
|09-16-2019 11:30 AM|
I showed Mike three ways to go about this and his main concern was speed. I downgraded in the interest of that by putting nuts on top of the bracket instead (to be welded better when apart). Angle pieces are made and marked for drilling and outside corner trimming, nuts are in place.
|09-15-2019 06:17 PM|
Thats stronger, and I did think about through bolts along the way. I could be wrong, but I don't think my flimsier design will fall short on strength because theres just not much need for that, there. With boards bolted to fenders, they don't move much and if nobody needs to ride out there with a Tommy gun... meh... probably enough.
My other thought is that no pebble grabbing gap over the bracket is present on the leading side in my sketch, and that the cup design would be less tolerant of small fore/aft and or twist discrepancies between bracket and board.
You know the step plate on top of one back fender of a rumble seat car? Like this had. Round, cast silver metal with ribbed top face. I was studying on having those as exit steps and having them set up where they look sunk into the board and are about half as tall, but invisibly pass through the board and are supported by the bracket only so no weight goes on the skin when you step there. That was just a thought, and an automatic trans car's brake pedal pad could be done the same way. Either yells step here only please.
Howzat grab ya?
|09-15-2019 05:23 PM|
|09-15-2019 03:06 PM|
I know I made flats on the brackets for the carriage bolt attachment method but with all the stacked approximateness of all things involved... like the mount channels not being necessarily square to the board and such... this is my current thought in visual form. The note about a pad is an afterthought but my intent is to drill holes in the front of the brackets and weld nuts in there flush. I think this will be easier than carriage bolts and have a couple advantages but am open to suggestions.
This was last night- Power to the Pontiacs!
|09-13-2019 07:37 PM|
Checked the boards with a level and the left rear corner was the only one level. But that corner is a known trouble spot. Other three corners, shimming the outside end of my little level with the edge of a roll of quarter inch tape centered the bubble and matched exactly. Since I think the boards should slope down just a tiny bit, I am calling that only one corner to correct. On the sheetmetal.
On the front brackets, I lengthened each by 2" and twisted one top mount plus removed a half inch there. Rears just needed a top twist on one side. Not too terrible, they fit now-
I have a rough mental plan to put nuts on the front of the brackets and attach the boards with angled strips plug welded to the front edge flange of the existing running board mount area support channels. Those have keyholes for down facing carriage bolts. My plan has the bolts going horizontally, pointing rearward and with adjustment slop.
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