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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 07:49 PM
idrivejunk







Yesterday 07:54 PM
idrivejunk

















Thats Footloose and the Ankle Biters working on the bug. This "backup" welder is what he is using and hating.

But its the only one I used the first few years there. The whip spit the liner out one day and I'd had enough of it. Sure tried to find him a usable setting and help it but man it almost acts like theres flux core wire in it. I will be sure he uses the newer Miller for the part that counts. If the gas holds out til next week.
Yesterday 01:02 PM
idrivejunk Heard a new saying from a tool man today... I was expressing my amazement on a boss accomplishment and the reply: "Ain't you figured it out yet? Gary can crap in a swinging bucket if he wants to."

Ha. Now theres a stunt! I wouldn't bet agin it.

Opened the epoxy floodgate (brushing crevasses) and almost forgot to zap that brace in-





That stuff'll be ready after lunch. Revisit yon briar patch-





Was a tedious AM commute and there were cowl thoughts active as I began so I stared a few moments while in thoughtful mode. Suddenly the felt tip in my hand was uncorked and gesturing wildly-



Didn't figure that would readily translate mentally but it does appear viable. So I allowed myself a brief scribblevision. It could be pretty snug around the mill and just the original cowl shape shrunken sort of visually drapes over the engine's top shape. Probably could work with or without a huffer. We want the supercharger so the intake is off to one side rather than pointed at the radiator.



Howboutat? Our cubby opportunity has shrunk considerably since last serious ponder.

Painter doing his thing... stripes going black. Owner wants to see it together and striped before deciding to put the big Pantera decals down the sides. Front bumper and spoiler are satin black and I don't think these stripes will wrap all the way down to the bottom of the body. So, SS stripes?

01-22-2020 07:11 PM
idrivejunk Remember the grey 73 T/A? Dude who built that floor goes by "Slick". Started when he was painting bicycles as a teen and people always told him they were slick.

I'm about slicked out for this day and don't have much for the evening show. If I can say I bounced around to various things this afternoon, that oughtta cover it eh?

These flanges didn't end up real tight and it is messy but connected securely. This is the stick head in trunk and look toward knee angle, driver's side.



Close-up shot of the place I started to weld yesterday-



The wide angle, better without a trunkload of crap. Found a use for those flaps.



This is Footloose's beetle door task that I coached on for a few. Told him start by making two L strips-

01-22-2020 06:54 PM
idrivejunk
Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
HOT dang, that's as slick as snot-on-a-doorknob...
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Never seen the aforementioned, but I will agree it's slick.
I hear owl snot on a greased glass doorknob is slickest. I remember years ago I said that once and Mitch's Mrs. wanted to know how I knew so much about owl snot. I was watching my way through classic Wild Kingdom on utube at the time.

You guys know how I get on a kick with the old shows.

For the record, that particular jewel of vernacular is a vintage colloquialism acquired in my days of more southern living from a Creole gentleman alongside whom I toiled. Once while mixing a bag of alpha jewels into clear gelcoat, I heard him say: "Look at it spark and glit!"

That memory cracks me up to this day. Pure gold.

Edit... that was "relevant" because in central Louisiana in the early 80s... there were still glass doorknobs all over the place. They could be slick!
01-22-2020 03:13 PM
123pugsy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
HOT dang, that's as slick as snot-on-a-doorknob...



Never seen the aforementioned, but I will agree it's slick.
01-22-2020 02:57 PM
Too Many Projects HOT dang, that's as slick as snot-on-a-doorknob...
01-22-2020 01:18 PM
idrivejunk I went right in, cranked up the welder for the 1x3 and was making beautiful music for about ten welds then ran out of wire. Grabbed the more poorly kept other welder, spent the time to get it ready, extrapolated a setting (welder is same model but older, different adjustments) and dove back in.

The one you are looking at was #1. The brown one in the foreground. Drat. Had a nice row going where it can be seen at least now. I readjusted the heat down, got one acceptable plug weld. Went to finish the one where I ran out of wire...

Then that welder quit. Makes the sounds but no spark. I check stuff... yep, nope dead as a nail. I told boss. He got me some wire at lunch just now. Snowing today, broom guy gone.

So, went to fill out my book and my pen quit. Mercy sakes! OK, time to make stuff instead. Whew.

This little box will weld in with the roll pan front extension at bottom, and before at top. It is right under the latch support. That screw is on the front flange of the brace so the box is under the middle of it.



Finally, down to business. Glad I didn't start welding on that bottom overlap seam-







This is how it goes. On top, it will just overlap the flat where the stepped and overlapped plug weld seam is and become a third layer. Should blend right in with a scrape of seam sealer there. At bottom, I will tighten up the fit at the step best I can and plug it through the roll pan edge.

Doing this actually solves a couple other small areas at corners and I like the looks of it. The decider was when I saw that an almost straight line from pan edge to lip seam follows the curve where the inner tub bottom edge steps down.



Its a work in progress. Nothing holding it yet.
01-21-2020 08:43 PM
idrivejunk Alright, that was yer meat n taters. If your plate is clean, this is dessert. If not, salad for you.

Don't you retired hobbyist types enjoy having lacquer sanded off one stall over?





That is a new hood. Piece of dented in the center crap!

I don't swear but do cuss. If I did, though... I'd put my hand on a Bible and state this car is obviously orange in person and the camera sees red. It is orange as blazes. Looks like a Chevy mill.



They are knocking down clear for stripes-



Psst... step over here into the shadows.

Figured I'd get me some bible thumpin in there in order to maintain balance, as this next part gets kind of dark. I mean if theres beauty to evil at all, this is where those two meet. When this thing hits the road, the driver may see in black and white because all wavelengths of nearby light will be absorbed by it. I never seen sky this black-

Cowl (or Bat-arang?)



Dash (theres a push to get it to Oz. Interior guy in Kansas. Just follow the yellow bricks.)



Tank (hey I shoulda took a pic of that drawing)



We'll make it around the car, hang on...

Looks like more foundation for some nifty full custom interior happenings here, speaker shelf-



Mmm, mmm. Spaghetti!



One of these days we'll see everything shut. Still no bumpers.









A big change of scenery is obviously coming soon for me and Life cereal. Whats the world like without a prewar Ford in your stall? Not sure I remember. He sure does. Oh yeah, theres GM4IDJ on the horizon! Maybe.
01-21-2020 07:53 PM
idrivejunk Didn't like doing it, but did pretty much what I said I would and its fine. Better, even. So now I like it and it is on purpose.

Look close and you'll see that I cut the top part off just out past the edge of the 1x3. From below, that hides behind the frame. The bottom only had screws but I had to cut the end tabs and remove them from the tub walls.



While the centerline marks on frame and 1x3 were in plain view with that cut out, I siezed the opportunity to center it more precisely. Burred 3 body mount holes a little more and was back on this pan fix in a half hour with it all back tight and right.

Onward.

Held an inch wide strip of posterboard where I wanted the new metal, trimmed and finger folded it. Marked folds on metal.

Measured for width, added inch flaps at each end. Cut metal piece, made 3 approximate bends with the brake. Cut a sliver off that and held it in place then bent to fit. Back to the brake to tweak one bend so the panel matched the sliver. Bend tabs over, drill, bomb, in it went-







Kind of hard to make out whats going on there but if you study hard, you'll see. Lighting not the best. But... it looks slick from both sides-



I have the little bottom notches where the screw on shock bolt access flaps were, left to fill in. I was racing to get the thing in there today but only made two plug welds before boss wanted to consult on the Impala. Customer in AM. I assured him what he can't get, I can make.

And I briefly outlined a rough plan for the right A pillar which is badly perforated. The old cut panel section off, fix up, put back routine. Like I did with a 280ZX quarter once, and like I did on his el Camino over the right rear wheel. BTW while I sound all brag-esque he took it to a big indoor show in Wichita last weekend. Did good, got a couple picks.
01-21-2020 07:11 PM
idrivejunk
Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
Can the shock bolts be installed in the opposite direction, for removal from the front ?

Hey Howdy and thanks.

If it was my car, I would want to be able to remove them without cutting anything.

I think the deeper pan to cover the roll pan would work nicely for that and allow an access hole/cover system for the shock bolt.
I bet the bolts are installed from the rear for cosmetics, a cleaner look to the possibly visible back end of the frame. If they stay that way it is only a matter of raising the body off the chassis.

All servicing could probably be done with the shock bolts in, from the looks of it. No cutting and thats what the flaps were for, just in case.

I just got Mike to say it was OK. If it was anyone but me, a guy would probably assume it was. To not have the flaps. They were an IDJ-ism and I never questioned about bolt orientation, IIRC.

One of the mounts is visible in one of the following pix. For once I was my own cap'n and just drove the ship. Deliberating as minimally as an IDJ can, I decided that incorporating the drop down conflict and pan filler with one piece was too much alteration at this point and those were to be approached seperately. My reasons:

Altering the latch brace was just going to be too afterthoughty.

I believe I went to much trouble to leave a flange at the roll pan to tag panel seam at that floor height.

Me seeing a little potentially unused trunk stash room at bottom rear is no reason to redesign. Not in this inning. But I can put holes out beside the latch support, through the floor and over the boxed roll pan, that would make the space inside it accessible.

Last but not least, the Pugsy Factor. If it ever gets a love tap from the rear, the boxed roll pan is the welcoming committee.


Aw, now look there what I gone and done... put too many words.

Fixin to show you. Hang tight-
01-21-2020 06:30 PM
Too Many Projects Can the shock bolts be installed in the opposite direction, for removal from the front ?

If it was my car, I would want to be able to remove them without cutting anything.

I think the deeper pan to cover the roll pan would work nicely for that and allow an access hole/cover system for the shock bolt.
01-21-2020 12:55 PM
idrivejunk Righto. May have hit a snag, read on.

Heres the tubs joined to pan ends-





The crevice-



That may be more of a nook than cranny.

This is topside. Note the latch support on your right. The well pan is a plugged extension of the trunk pan and the seam is hidden under that 1x3 on the left-



Why am I talkin bout that all of a sudden? See the little sliver of shock mount bolt peeking through the uncovered hole here?



My thought was to allow access to those with body on. I think that is out now that I moved the body forward.



There was room between the pan drop and frame but now it all but rubs. Mike agrees access to these will be seldom, if ever, needed. So the flaps will at the very least be tacked in but with a bulge for the bolt head.





Soooo... unsure what I will do about that. Unrelated to boxing the roll pan but perhaps not entirely. Those rear mounts are shimmed and that pan is all over the frame as-is. Thinking whether to snip out the well pan between latch brace and 1x3 and drop a new well pan down to the bottom of the roll pan then extend or brace the latch support or not. That kinda stuff. If you did follow all that, I'd welcome ideas.

I got some Cat progress shots for later.
01-21-2020 05:12 AM
123pugsy
Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
That's what she said.

I figure it would hang there until doomsday if it remained undamaged. A trusty angled strip by itself along the bottom would stiffen it too. I was more concerned with what will collect there. But ...

I agree. Better looking from underneath and never wavy from behind, added latch brace support. Oh and epoxy all first.

Its getting one.

Ya, crevices in the wrong place are not good and always seem to collect crap.
01-20-2020 09:38 PM
idrivejunk
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
100%, yes. It will stiffen a lot. Stiff is good.

That's what she said.

I figure it would hang there until doomsday if it remained undamaged. A trusty angled strip by itself along the bottom would stiffen it too. I was more concerned with what will collect there. But ...

I agree. Better looking from underneath and never wavy from behind, added latch brace support. Oh and epoxy all first.

Its getting one.
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