|11-16-2018 08:11 PM|
The pictures on the Chevy link I linked earlier are quite accurate. Just scale it to real world scale using a free graphic program like gimp and print it off and tape the thing to your cardboard.
Sounds cheap cause it is. Cost of threaded rod/nuts and maybe another $10 in paper and cardboard.
Cheap, light, and when your done does not take up any shop space. It works good enough to say hold a oil pan or header up to the mock up block and get a very good idea the real clearance you have.
|11-16-2018 09:42 AM|
Too bad, there are several versions of these things that are similar but not exactly identical in dimensions so he will eventually learn that there is no precise dimensional recepie that fits every build. Space is critical how it gets built dimensionally as mods proceed will drive the fine modifications needed for installation, you just can't get beyond generalizations because of that. The info he was given is more than adaquate to get started, probably the one thing missing is that there is great aid in using plastic mock ups of the Chevy engine and transmission since they are light and dimensionally correct that a person can maneuver them about to get the needed dimensions, but it's a substantial added cost to the build.
|11-16-2018 05:42 AM|
|techinspector1||Apparently, Joe has zero interest in what any of us think, he was looking specifically for someone who had done a Gen I swap into a 450SL. I doubt that we'll ever hear from him again. Not to worry, there are thousands of other fellows who will appreciate our knowledge.|
|11-15-2018 11:01 PM|
|11-15-2018 09:07 PM|
Looks to me that a Small block ford may be a better choice in that car..
|11-15-2018 07:19 PM|
|11-15-2018 07:12 PM|
How about a picture of the MB oil pan.. Would be helpful. I do think you can find an LS in Branson Mo.
|11-15-2018 04:18 PM|
Electric conversion is what I would do to an old MB.
I did some SBC/TH350 swaps into Volvo diesel cars in the 1980's because the diesel engine was horrible and blew up.
|11-15-2018 04:07 PM|
|joe_padavano||The fact that you have a motor is not a reason to use it. The better answer is to get an LS with coil on plug. Aluminum versions won't weigh any more than the Merc motor. They are dirt cheap these days from wrecking yards. Oil pans for swaps are available everywhere.|
|11-15-2018 03:54 PM|
|techinspector1||Careful there Joe, you're coming across as a SNOT.|
|11-15-2018 03:38 PM|
As for front mounted distributors. Go coil on plug and be happy.
Here is a rough reference of a few engines showing overall dimension, weight, distributor and starter location.
Popular American V8 Engine Dimensions
|11-15-2018 03:18 PM|
Searching for readers!!!
I have only older Chevy engines to do this with.
Search my Albums for SOME knowledge about me or my shop.
NOT a Bragger. Just need to get this thing done.Do ANY of you all out there know someone who did this conversion?
Without cutting up the crossmember under the engine? Does the Nova conversion pan for the early six cylinder to v8 conversion assembly work for the SBC in (THIS) conversion?
|11-15-2018 02:25 PM|
First thing to do is remove all the front sheet metal and bumper assembly to allow EZ access to the engine compartment. Label and fasten the wiring harness out of the way as we will need to splice into that for the new engine. Just unplug the harness and use no wire cutters on that.
I would most likely use one of the 5.3 LS with the 4L60 transmission.
This thing makes this job a lot easier.
Next thing os that when you get your engine/trans assembly get one that runs well and LEAVE IT ALONE big mistake is made to do engine mods before the engine is mounted in place and running. Found this out the hard way.
Now that the engine compartment is cleaned out and you have the engine supported on your hoist set the engine/trans into place. I have my plasma cutter fired up so if I need to trim a bit I can do that. You can use blocking to hold the engine/trans in position so you ca measure up for the mounts. Make up your mounts and crossmember and get the engine trans bolted in. Then it is a matter of wiring the engine. connecting the fuel system and figuring out about the radiator. Should be good to go at that point.
|11-15-2018 02:05 PM|
This is a tight swap but is pretty common. You will find yourself going a lot of mock ups to work out the exact fits.
Basically an early model Chevy II pan and oil pick up will be needed. A short coolant pump and of course matching pulleys and accessory brackets. You'll find for handling you will want to get some weight off the front figure on an aluminum coolant pump, intake manifold, and 23 degree straight plug heads right at the start. Block hugger center outlet headers will just fit. You'll have to fabricate the engine mount space almost demands you use the GM 60 degree V6 mount to buy some space between intake and hood for a carb or injection. You well need a low riser intake like the Professional Products Cyclone.
The battery will go to the trunk you can use a marine terminal under the hood for electrical distribution. You will have to use a short mini oil filter if not a remote filter. Space is tight if not the final frontier. A TH350 or 700R4 should fit but it's tight. Coolant lines and exhaust will be a battle for space, forget the 4L60E there is no space for the wire bundle. By the best mini starter you can afford, you'll never see it again once the engine is installed without engine removal.
The rear mount distributor will forever make you wish you put a 351 Ford in it but then you'd have to install a remote mount electric coolant pump and develop a unique mount and drive system for the other accessories. You need to plan on a small cap distributor with an electronic conversion or something like the ProComp with the external mounted GM type module and vacuum advance.
To make this work, more than anything you have to manage your space precisely.
|11-15-2018 12:45 PM|
Mount your transmission to your driveshaft moving it into place with a transmission jack. Then measure forward from the belhousing face and that will show what will hit suspension wise.
Take some cardboard and cut out the profile of a 350 including carb. There are dimensions online I will link later. Make a front and back cutout then using threaded rod space them and bolt them to your belhousing.
I have the dimensions at the house so you can make your lightweight mock engine.
Once the engine is in you can hold up items like exhaust or accessories to see what will work.
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