|05-16-2019 06:04 AM|
For starters, I'd try 100% distilled water along with an anti-rust additive, as suggested by BogiesAnnex1. If that works to lower your temps this summer, then take a look at this chart to see what you need in the winter.
Finally, engines may be more efficient at 210 degrees, and they do a better job of ridding the crankcase of moisture, but they're more prone to pre-ignition and certainly don't make more power. I think a series of dyno runs would confirm that.
|05-15-2019 09:10 PM|
|big doug||Thanks thats my next move.My batter is in the trunk so will have to do some rigging.Thanks|
|05-15-2019 08:58 PM|
|potvinguy||Timing, timing, timing. I've seen so many motors running hot because of not enough advance. My SBC runs 20 initial, 15 mechanical and 15 vacuum. It'll run at any temp I set all day long.|
|05-14-2019 11:40 AM|
Sounds good enough, I really don't trust heat guns that much, the readings have some variation with surface finish and angles of the shot. So reallly knowing
which measure is truly correct always has an unknown element, trying to close a gap this close will drive you nuts.
|05-14-2019 05:07 AM|
That should work well there.
|05-13-2019 08:56 PM|
|64nailhead||Close enough IMHO. Trying to chase after 5-8 degrees will drive you insane.|
|05-13-2019 08:36 PM|
|big doug||I pointed it beside the sending unit on the intake manafo. Its a flat natural finish,natural alumina. And around the upper rad hose outlet.|
|05-13-2019 06:47 PM|
|05-13-2019 06:22 PM|
OK guys here is one thing I came up with on my over heating problem. Ran the temp to over 205,then checked it with a red dot heat detector,it read 197. Seems like my temp sending unit is off a bit. big doug
|05-12-2019 10:06 PM|
I like to run an inline electric on midget and sprint engines simply because if the race gets stopped for a crash, which is common, the super hot engine drops to idle and with it coolant flow, so this helps getting around puking coolant.
|05-12-2019 03:30 PM|
cerial, that is some out of the box thinking and it just might work for someone!
64nailhead, they make an auxiliary electric water pump that co-exists with the mechanical and it is designed for exactly what say, a good alternative too! And Thank you (it runs as good as it looks).
|05-12-2019 02:18 PM|
I think this would be a great spot for an electric water pump due to the volume it flows is not tied into the engine rpm's. How to to tie it into coolant temps without any intervention fro the driver would require some minor ingenuity, but could be done on the cheap. But initially running it at maximum voltage should resolve all of the OP's issue.
36 sedan - that engine is a piece of art work!!!!!
|05-12-2019 01:45 PM|
Loovering your hood sides will help.
As far as radiatiors go I have always wondefed why no one ever made a V shaped radiatior to sit tight behind the V shsped grill. This would give you a significant increased cooling area, allow for electric fans to be used, and allow for more engine space. You would need to fill it through the upper hose using a center mount fill. But other then that it seems that would allow for a overall larger cooling area.
Break out the tape measure and measure behind that grill. There are several small radiatiors out that may fit behind there.
You will just need to run a sealed radistior, or higher pressure caps, or block off the caps then you can mount the things anyway they fit using 2 common radiatiors. Link the two together to go off the engine to the top of 1 flow through it to bottom, having a hose going from the bottom of 1 to top of 2 then flow through 2 before back to the block.
I am guessing you can fit 2 15x30(ish) radiatiors back behind that grill depending where your rails drop.
A cadilliac northstar 2000-2005 radiatior and fans MAY work and after getting your measurments heading to a yard to confirm may get you the fix you need. That radiatior has a long upper hose which may allow you to connect to the 2nd unit easily while keeping everything non custom.
A 91(ish) jeep cherokee (xj) radiatior is a bit smaller then the cadilliac radiatior and there are more options for aftermarket support which will you to use a larger core if need be.
But your going to need to make your own fan brackets. I would use four 12" fans for the 2 radiatiors.
Electrical wise I would run a single controler turn on a single relay(if not incorporated into the controler). Having that single relay to turn on the 4 relays powering the fans. Then use a audio capacitor to buffer the fans all turning on at once.
Sounds over complicated. But your ending up with a 30×30 "tripple pass" radiatior cooled by 4 fans pulling a combined 3200-4800cfm.
Only issue is where your frame rails come into play or other obstructions which may complicate things.
|05-12-2019 01:00 PM|
My cooling arrangement consists of Flowkooler (flows more water at low speeds) short water pump (no clearance for long pump), the bottom hose has a stainless spring in it to prevent the hose from collapsing (more output equals more suction), Wizard Cooling aluminum radiator with 1-1/4” tubes (replaced Walker), 2 - Derale HO 19625 pusher fans (yes pusher can work), 14# pressure recirc cap and a recirc tank, 50/50 coolant with a 190 thermostat and a Dakota Digital fan controller (operates the two fans independently). Keep in mind high output fans draw a lot of current which may need electrical upgrades (larger alternator and wire sizes).
My SBC 383 runs consistently at 200° (205° at idle with the A/C running on hot days), a little less on cold days. I can idle with the A/C on and not worry about over heating.
And as mentioned earlier, correct timing along with correct AFR and overall motor condition can make a huge difference in cooling as well as performance.
|05-12-2019 11:28 AM|
The best one that I have had good luck with is Zerex. It's usually easy to find in almost any parts store. Make sure you keep the resultant flush off of your paint work.
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|