|06-10-2019 04:38 AM|
|Goneagain||I’ve been getting brake fittings and line from In Line Tube off EBay. No problems so far.|
|06-09-2019 03:28 PM|
From my experience something is very wrong! Brake lines are not hard to do. Get a flaring tool and do your own.
Brake line parts and fittings are hard to find at auto parts stores. I have found that the best way is to order on line. I have attached a catalog that I have ordered from and have had no problems. yes it can get expensive because you need a good assortment and usually more that you think you will need.
Make a sketch of the lines with all the fittings and then get more than you figured.
Some advise when flaring MAKE SURE TO BEVEL THE ENDS as the directions will tell you. Yes it is time consuming. I have used the new copper nickel lines and they work very well but very expensive.
I also ran fuel lines 5/16 and 3/8 using steel tubing with double flare fittings and have had no problems. Also you can use the double flare tool to bubble the end for attaching a hose. Just start the double flare and stop when the end is expanded.
|06-08-2019 03:08 PM|
I've never seen Nicopp at a parts store pre flared. steel and zinc coated yes.
Nicopp is about the easiest stuff to flare and even though I lost my good flaring tool ( Cal Van tools inline flaring tool ) I can make good enough leak free double flares with a Harbor Freight flaring kit. They crunch just a little with that flaring tool but leak free. Nicopp is all I use anymore.. If your getting a leak something is mis matched.
If you need a double flare Tee, a good parts store has them. If you want to reuse. Lot of cars use Tee's at the rear axle. The brake hose used is a 3/8" inverted flare type usually
|06-08-2019 05:30 AM|
I must have got lucky with mine, the steel line wasn't easy to double flare, but I tighten them 3 or 4 times, backing off a quarter turn then going a little further each time. When I replaced some with ni copp it practically sealed itself. I've found of all places, Auto Zone has a good supply of fittings but they are all in the back. Since your lines are bought with fittings, I'm guessing you have enough to cut and flare again yourself?
And yes, brake fluid makes excellent floor cleaner (on my epoxy floor anyway).
|06-07-2019 08:58 PM|
Get yourself one of these https://www.amazon.com/Female-Brake-...Q4W1389GZCSJ6N
Tighten each flate tightly into this fitting. It;s steel and won't deform like the brass female fittings do, centering you flare and making it seal better in the brass female fittings
On the speedway proportioning valve, throw those adapters as far as you can, and replace with weatherhead/eaton fittings. Been there, done that. NAPA does carry the Cupernickle line, but only in rolls. To be honest you can get it cheaper on Ebay.
I know your pain. I just went through this on a car using three quarts of fluid before it was sealed. On the bright side it took all the overspray off the floor
|06-07-2019 01:55 PM|
Pick a company and buy from that company.
Less variation in the manufacturing processes.
You can buy from a reseller such as speedway or granger if it reduces the price but maintain the same manufacturer for your fittings.
Each fitting is a weak link. The fewer you can have the better. For instance you can have the through frame and solid to flexible lines be one fitting held in place by clips on either side of the frame. Place your portioning valve with incorporated
switch down where your front lines T. Run a single line all the way back to your rear axle then go into a single flexible line to a T to your rear cylinders.
This leaves you with fittings at the master fittings at the portioning valve, fittings at the flexible lines, a T in the rear, then fittings at the 4 cylinders.
|06-07-2019 12:44 PM|
|adimice||Thanks KSO, it's going to take me a couple of readings before I try to implement some of your possible solutions. I appreciate your reply.|
|06-07-2019 10:50 AM|
Leaking brake lines
Thanks chasracer, I've thought the same, that I'm using incompatible parts. But, whats a guy to do, speedway has a mounted tee, but no nickel copper lines. Advanced has nico but no tee. Napa has a tee but no nico. Auto zone's nico lines are all bent, like they've been returned. I've got to find one place that has all the stuff I need and make sure they match. How bout these adapters speedway sends with the proportioning valve, what the hell do they match ? You got it right I'm vey frustrated, if I had any spare hair I'd pull it out.
|06-07-2019 07:23 AM|
What is happening I believe is that you are not using parts that are compatible with each other. Banjo fittings work perfectly but you have to have the correct bolt and fitting for that to happen. The same with store bought tubing - I have used it for years and no issues but at the same time, all of the connectors and fittings on master cylinders or wheel cylinders have to have the same type of fitting for the flare. Don't just walk in and pick up something, verify the stuff - bring a part with you, make sure. I can tell from your post that you are frustrating yourself over this. Sure, a fitting here or there on a new build might give you a headache sometimes but it's usually something easy to correct. Hell, you haven't even gotten to the bleeding part yet.
|06-07-2019 06:46 AM|
It kinda -is- rocket science, where part of what makes very high-dollar and very critical rockets work is very careful assembly of sometimes easy-seeming things. Like a rattlesnake behind a rock, big problems can jump out from where you didn't expect...and any braking problem is a big problem. That sounds like a kinda random line of thought to present here but I wryly note, during a period of time where I worked metal fab for a medium-size aerospace vendor starting there as a lowly machine operator, I brought my best hot rod to the company picnic and a couple months later found myself invited to review the manuals and do final hardware and plumbing assembly on one of the shop's flagship contracts, a particular large and expensive rocket assembly. If you believe aerospace skill translates down to the hot rod world, know that it sometimes translates the other direction too but the important thing with either is careful work and intolerance of any possible condition that could cause an issue later, no matter how complex or in this case simple. The funny thing is, it's not really science or engineering as that was all handled by the people who design and make the parts you're putting together. At your (and my) level, it's more like arts and crafts now, as I say sometimes. Very careful arts and crafts.
Every one of those fittings that's having a leaking issue has some inner problem preventing proper seal. It could be improper (possibly off-center?) flaring or machining, the nut machining may not be concentric which is a vital thing and I sometimes have to correct that on a lathe when I get a sloppy part. There could be dirt, or a welded seam of the tubing causing a bump in the sealing surface. I wish you were down the street, I'd probably be able to pull one of those apart and tell you in a minute but the thing to do is to disassemble a leaking fitting, get the best possible light and vision magnification you can and look over the actual sealing surfaces for witness marks etc. to see what happened. If you can't tell anything, clean it all up and use a Sharpie marker to color up the end of the brake line, screw it back together then disassemble again to see where the ink was smeared or transferred. If it looks all off-center you may have the problem with the nuts I mentioned, which there is nothing you can do about except cut it off the line and re-flare over a new one you've confirmed is concentric and if you have the room left on the line length. If the flare was done off-center, you'll be able to see it by looking down the end but I hafta say I've never seen a bad flare on a parts-store line, happily. If the fitting your are screwing into is swaged into or damaged you should be able to see that too.
For general problem-solving I would consider the soft-copper sealing washer linked to above as a possibly-useful band-aid but it looks like the smallest available is 1/4" and it shouldn't be necessary anyhow. Once you've confirmed even, concentric sealing and the problem looks like it could be a rough surface or the weld seam on the tubing you might consider using something like a 90 degree x half-inch single flute countersink on the end of a variable-speed drill with light pressure to put a good sealing surface on the tube and don't forget to blow compressed air across the end afterward to suck out debris. If the machined surface on the fitting is jacked up at all from either re-use, forcing together ill-fitting surfaces or any other reason you're pretty-much stuck with replacing it.
Finally when mixing-and-matching fittings I sometimes run into the problem where one just doesn't run far enough down into the other and there's only a few threads engaged to hold things together, or also sometimes threads may engage too much and bottom before the sealing surfaces get hit which you can detect with the Sharpie-ink method. Both problems fixed on a lathe...or another trip to the parts store if you have to.
|06-06-2019 11:11 AM|
Those are pretty clunky, tuff seeing those used in a limited space.
A more practial tool/wrench ^
|06-06-2019 07:50 AM|
|06-06-2019 07:40 AM|
I’ve read that these washers help seal lines too.
CNC Machined Copper Flare Gasket Flare Fittings (S.A.E. 45°)
|06-06-2019 07:28 AM|
When I was an Engineer at Ford we had a problem with leaky fittings , I think it was mustang or Fairlane. The fix was a couple drops of thread sealer on fittings during assembly I don't remember the sped on the sealant we used. all fittings were tightened with a full contact snap open wrenches.
here's a link
When Ford shut down the Calif Mustang and Truck factory I still had my old Id badge and got in to the "garage sale" and bought a bunch some have torque handles
|06-06-2019 07:18 AM|
|Hipster_G||With flared fitting did you snug them up and back them off a few times before a final cinch? I find that helps and on the banjo bolts I prefer the sealing rings with the o-ring in the center. I'm not fond of the pre-made ones either.|
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