|07-11-2019 03:57 PM|
Uh, never mind I guess.
However, thank you guys for the advice and Eric, thank you for the link, might be something to do down the road.
|07-10-2019 06:48 PM|
After reading through, I am left with only one option that might do. Installing a steel scoop that has had a step rolled around the edge. Using plug welds from beneath. Leaves you with a small seam that faces the sky. In the absence of a bead roller or pneumatic hole punch / flanger, it could also be done by butting the edges and using a backing strip rather than a step. Might look a little business-like but I percieve the primary concerns as being money and durability. A tidy seam trumps a crack, in my opinion. However with these methods, adequate corrosion protection is more complex since there is an overlapped seam.
As far as the hood shell, some simple angled strips made from the skin cutout could be fashioned in a brake or vise to create a framework around the opening. In '65 there may not be a crumple zone out ahead of the hinges but just don't use for example angle iron because you do want the hood still soft enough to fold in the middle if, heaven forbid, a heavy front crash happens to it.
|07-10-2019 06:26 PM|
No hood pins for me, look cool, but always needing two people is a pain.
Mine is a 1.25" drop base, I'll check a dirt track shop closeby in the morning and see if he has a 2" drop and see if it fits, make returns easier not having to ship.
Of course, I could change the intake altogether and run a tunnel ram, that'd solve the problem, lol. Just have to build the brace and be done.
Anyway, I don't need a riddler award level job, but I don't want the singlewide special either.
|07-10-2019 06:18 PM|
Yeah, Glasstek was the only place I could find that even had a '65 Hood at all. "Some trimming may be needed" generally means edges fitted to the actual hood opening sides and back edge at the cowl, basically they are just covering their butts on complaints.
If you've heard bad about Glasstek, you don't even want to consider anything from VFN.
Are you using a drop base on the air cleaner?? If you can get 2" with a flat base then 3-4" with a drop base should be no problem.
The Goodmark steel we did, the scoop material itself is about 1-1/2 times as thick as the hood skin, even with bracing cut away from the entire underside opening of the windshield length cowl scoop, to within about 12" of the very front of the scoop the hood was still very stiff.....but he used it as a steel lift-off(2-man job to remove/replace it) and didn't put it on the hinges. Could have proved too flimsy for hinged use with springs, I don't know.
|07-10-2019 06:02 PM|
I called glasstek earlier and was quoted $1010 for a 2" cowl hood and $1040 for a 4" hood, said it needs trimming to fit, what needs trimmed I don't know but I'm not about to risk it, neither price included shipping. Plus, I've read too many mixed reviews on their hoods, seems either dead on or way off, not much in between.
Prices were for welding on, I have seen too many bond jobs crack and it looks horrid when they do. They did not include rebracing the underhood either, not going to have a floppy flimsy hood, way too nice of a car for that.
Would a simple box frame around the hole suffice for bracing?
As it sits, the pic with the 2" air filter, it may clear by a hair, but I'm fairly certain a 2" filter ain't gonna cut it to get air in.
I saved the link for the air cleaner shield thing you gave me a link to, guy I wok with showed me this
I may just wind up going one of these routes if all else fails, I'll check out the link you posted and see if I like anything. Just don't want a regular old air cleaner hanging through the hood with nothing else, looks horrid and a gassy windshield doesn't look good either.
|07-10-2019 04:48 PM|
There are some with internal flanges. Google "Metal Hood scoops bolt -on" or "fiberglass hood scoops bolt-on" or cowl induction hoos scoop bolt-on" and search through the images.
You are correct, most leave a lot to be desired in the looks department.
Were the quotes you got for welding a steel scoop to steel hood and finishing, or bonding fiberglass to a steel hood and finishing??
Bonding fiberglass to steel is always a pain, the two have different expansion rates so preventing cracking over time is a real problem.
A buddy of mine did the $150 weld on Goodmark cowl onto a stock flat '67 Chevelle hood....He was being tight with money and thought it would save a bunch, by the time he got done paying for the finishing work it would have been just as cheap to have bought the fiberglass hood....and that would have weighed a bunch less.
No one making a fiberglass hood of any kind for the'65 Skylark, I'm guessing??
Unlimited Products has probably the better looking bolt-on cowl scoops with internal flanges.
Unlimited Products | ABOUT
Glasstek has a stock fiberglass hood that you or they can bond a scoop into when you are ready to go that far..
|07-10-2019 04:01 PM|
I put a new engine in my 64 skylark, 496 bbc. The air cleaner is going to stick through the hood and I need a way to cover it up.
I asked a few body shops around about putting one on and painting it to match, I had heart failure at the prices($1200-$2000 or worse.)
So, I'm wondering how bad the work is to put one on myself? Should I get a bolt on or bond on, how about reinforcing the hood from underneath, etc?
I have no clue whatsoever on bodywork? Doesn't look too difficult, just time consuming.
Furthermore, do any of you have pictures of bolt on cowl scoops installed, I have found 2 or 3 and they didn't look good at all to me. Or, do cowl scoops exist that have the bolt flange inside where it's not seen?