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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-03-2019 11:04 AM
Hotrod46 As an LS newb (a 20th century neanderthal) who is currently working my way through this, I can give some hard won advice.

If you can find an existing LS/trans package that can fit you car with minimal mods, you can get by reasonably. The salvage yards are full of engine packages. Get all you can from the same vehicle that you can use. It's all well engineered to work together.

If you're used to old school V8's as I am, be prepared for extreme sticker shock if you have to make a lot of mods to your engine. Even seemingly simple things like changing an oil pan gets expensive. Everything for LS engines is pricey, even the used stuff.

Also, internal work on LS engines requires some special procedures that someone familiar with older engines may not be aware of. There are no dowel pins to align things like front and rear covers and they have to aligned to the oil pan as well as the crank seals or you will have leaks. Clean head bolt holes out very well. They are blind holes and any liquid or debris left in them can crack the block. Oil pumps have to preciously aligned with the crank or they will eat themselves in short order. These are just a few things that come to mind, there are others. These are 21st century (actually late 20th) engines and made use of manufacturing techniques allowed by computers. They are not necessarily mechanic friendly.

Good luck and enjoy the learning process.
08-03-2019 06:49 AM
ProStreetRob and dont worry about active fuel management failures
You can either buy a cam w/ DoD/ AFM delete kit, or just have it removed in the tune.

DoD-Displacement on Demand & AFM-Active Fuel Management have been disconnected on thousands of Camaro's on Forums I visit. It was disconnected on my 2010 2SS/RS Procharged Camaro it's entire life, car ran flawless and made crazy hp. I sold it w/ @35K trouble free miles

The reason people say you should do some research on LS forums is because.. FOR EXAMPLE the Active Fuel Mgmt / Displacement on Demand you are so worried about only comes on L99 Automatic Motors when it comes to Gen 5 Camaro's. So for example if you wanted a 376 cu in LS WITHOUT AFM/DOD all you have to do is buy a Gen 5 Camaro LS3 Motor (FROM A MANUAL CAR), but that would be a Drive by Wire set up

This should help narrow down exactly which LS you want
08-02-2019 04:28 PM
64nailhead
Quote:
Originally Posted by BadWally View Post
First, thanks Capt Mike for the information. I am older and have always had muscle cars and street rods with carbs. The electronics on new vehicles scare the crap out of me. Even the 1995 LT1 I just rebuilt, I converted to a carb and HEI. Never had any problem with carbs. I have probably rebuilt over 100 Quadrajets and Holleys. But times change... yes I own a few new vehicles, but am skeptical about reliability, My friends new ford Raptor barely got us home when the transmission controller failed at only 8000 miles, but then again my 1997 F250 FI 460 runs fine with no issues. Toyota, no issues. So my LS adventure will probably have a carb conversion, MSD stand alone ignition and a turbo 400 with no electronic controls. . Thanks again for the info.
I understand being scared of the electronics, and also the idea of jumping into something that you're uncomfortable with as compared to stuff that you've used forever with success. BUT.................please take all of this with an open mind................putting a carb on an LS? Well, OK, maybe, I guess - it is well proven that a properly tuned carb will perform as well or minorly better than MOST fuel injection. But running the MSD is just downright crazy silly, unnecessary and a waste of GREEEEAT engineering in favor of some aftermarket that is nowhere near as reliable as the original.

How much is the MSD? Close to $400? You can wire in a Microsquirt and run in full dwell for less than $300 with a junkyard factory harness. The MSD is waaay over priced to run spark only. The Microsquirt can run all of the injection, if you want as well.

A couple of questions - are you aware that the factory truck coils (D585's) are the preferred coils for 1000+HP, even more than IGN1A's until you get over 1500HP. They are readily available in the junkyard (and at part stores if one craps out). Is the MSD stuff available anywhere local to you (I'll guess no)? Have ever been around anyone that can diagnose issues and tune with a computer in moments rather than portions of an hour to hours? If no, then once you see it and are around it, then you'll never go back IMHO.


I was scared as hell of aftermarket FI when I started with it. But after seeing the reliability and ease of tuning it, I will never go back. You can check out my build thread to see what I've cooked up. We've towed that car once, and that was due to Chinesium 321 stainless that SUCKS ALOT It cracked and melted the alternator. Everything else that we run is fuel injected, and boosted of course, has never been towed. 30K+ miles on hotrods and fun little cars and it always gets us home. If you were local, then I'd help you out and I'm sure I'd be able to convince you to leave the carb behind. BTW, where are you located?

Best of luck - JIM
08-02-2019 07:44 AM
CaptMike Well if your so set on a CARB,,, then why are you asking about an LSX ??

Makes no sense. You might as well stick with a SBC and ,,,

A 1997 ECM in any make or model is magnitudes behind the modern day ECM's. The Sensors functions the same, that's it.
08-02-2019 05:14 AM
123pugsy I just did the whole works.

Forget the carb. You won't be moving forward.

I used a 2004 5.3 and 4L60e tranny. This is drive by wire, (love it), amazingly, no throttle lag.
No AFM on this year engine.

Requires in tank fuel pump.

Oil pan and header kit req'd for your car if you don't want to notch your cross member like I did.

Ask specific questions and I'll do what I can to help.
08-01-2019 11:12 PM
BadWally
LS info

First, thanks Capt Mike for the information. I am older and have always had muscle cars and street rods with carbs. The electronics on new vehicles scare the crap out of me. Even the 1995 LT1 I just rebuilt, I converted to a carb and HEI. Never had any problem with carbs. I have probably rebuilt over 100 Quadrajets and Holleys. But times change... yes I own a few new vehicles, but am skeptical about reliability, My friends new ford Raptor barely got us home when the transmission controller failed at only 8000 miles, but then again my 1997 F250 FI 460 runs fine with no issues. Toyota, no issues. So my LS adventure will probably have a carb conversion, MSD stand alone ignition and a turbo 400 with no electronic controls. . Thanks again for the info.
07-29-2019 03:42 PM
CaptMike I believe what the LS site will help you with is the wiring Mods's "General" reduction and recommendations for various ECM tuners... I read many of their posts just to keep up with some new knowledge. Prob info on fuel pumps and fuel rails.

Here on this site you can Glean info needed for a LSX transplant other than the electrics.

Such as what and where is the best recommendation to purchase quality parts for a reasonable price. There's a quite a bit of junk parts out there and many here have learned our lessons the hard way.

You'll prob start with the engine & trans physical location, so You need motor and trans mounts. No better place to get a good input form members with Cars of many years, makes & models...

Have fun and take your time. A LSX engine will be worth the research.

If you need help with the ECM, it's wiring or tuning details that you just can't understand or find, do let me know. I've completed several Transplants with LSX and LTX engines for my cars and a few close friends. We lovingly call then Frankenstein Transplants, that work well of course - just for fun & good humor.

I'm a retired Electronic & Computer Science Engineer. These Auto ECM's aren't that difficult to grasp the basics and get them installed properly and move the end result. Just think of the ECM Module like an Engineer. We treat modules like ECM's as a "Black Box" with Sensors and outputs to control or operate things like injectors and coils.

Drive by Wire or Drive by Cable decision.

I've read many Tech (white papers) Reports on several makes of Drive by wire Cars over the recent years. I'll state that I'd Never Ever own, drive or ride in a Foreign Car with a drive by wire EVER...

However the Drive by Wire GM Cars are stable and have extensive error fault redundancy, which equals Safe !! . The response and feel is fantastic and reliable. I have two Corvettes with drive by wire and their both fantastic. MY '56 Chevy I did modify to a drive by cable. It's good and very linear acceleration and easy to control the Pedal to the this car at a particular and hold at. but not as good. And the Throttle cable does leak a little air, not much just annoying...

My '37 Chevy Coupe build I'm utilizing the drive by wire. This body is Chopped, Sectioned and Channeled over the frame, so there's limited room. The Clutch and Brake Pedal assembly is a Klugle, the only easy way to get the brake cylinder under the dash. I have zero room for a Throttle cable through the firewall and over the engine. So I'm leaving it as a drive by wire.

Enjoy....
07-29-2019 01:56 PM
vinniekq2 If you plan to run a carb you dont have a really good reason to not use the standard sbc. Ls is better built and stronger so my question to you, How much power do you want using a carb?
07-29-2019 01:45 PM
2001Blazer4x4
Quote:
Originally Posted by BadWally View Post
Really, that's why I am at this site, thinking how popular the LS platform is, I thought someone would have real useful advice rather than directing me to another site. Isn't it what this forum is for? So once again I will ask: Any one have some useful info?
Always amazes me when someone who wants something from others takes this stance.
07-29-2019 04:35 AM
'48 Austin X2 what CaptMike says above. To add, if you're going 21st Century, why in the world would you run a carburetor. Carbs died with Elvis.
07-28-2019 08:18 PM
cerial Once again cable throttlebody and less then a dozen wires to run it in stock form.


https://youtu.be/1lpuIiPB2sk

From this^ it is just a manner of cleaning the harness up by pulling pins on the blue/red(or green if later) ecm connections to remove unnecessary wires.
07-28-2019 07:50 PM
CaptMike Try to find a Donor car or used low mile LS1 or LS6, but 2000 and newer have significantly better EMS's. Donor cars provide many parts that you can utilize. More economical than a rebuild by far.

Removing the wiring from the oem ECM harness (not used items like VATs etc) is not difficult.

I installed a LS1 & Tremic T-56 six speed with less than 10k miles in the Spring of 2007 in my '56 Chevy 210.

Other than typical oil & filter change,,, no repairs, no engine adjustments, no tune ups, just a pair of BBK ceramic coated headers last fall.

Great engine & trans combo with excellent power and great fuel economy.

I'm thrilled to not have a Car on this Carb since this swap !!! The only engines that I have with a Carb are a power washer, chain saw and Weed whacker. Carbs, never again !!

I have three cars with LSX engines and have zero engine issues, but I don't race or abuse any of them.

No I don't know why these photo are upside down. Click on one and it will flip over.

Michael,,,
07-28-2019 06:05 PM
BadWally
LS info

Really, that's why I am at this site, thinking how popular the LS platform is, I thought someone would have real useful advice rather than directing me to another site. Isn't it what this forum is for? So once again I will ask: Any one have some useful info?
07-15-2019 10:25 PM
39 master Research, research...etc. Go to the LS1tech site and start reading. There is a ton of stuff to learn (good and bad) about the LS family. When you are well informed you will be able to make better decisions on what engine, trans, engine mods etc. Can't cover all that here.
07-15-2019 09:12 PM
cerial You want one with a cable throttlebody.

I have a 02 truck 5.3 and you need to flash the pcm removing vats and have a fuel pump that puts out 60psi.
Then it is seriously less then 10 wires to hook up on the factory harness and the thing can run standalone.
You even maintain the plug letting you run codes and have gauges through the torque app.

From there you just clean up the harness and go.
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