|08-26-2019 12:46 PM|
I finally got the new valve covers on, not as much clearance as the fabbed covers, but still clears just fine. I can now slide my hand between the brake booster and valve cover so I'm tickled there.
Engine is running awesome, I've got excessive tire wear going on, can't for the life of me figure out why though. And this thing is thirsty, I'll leave it at that.
If it had any traction, it would slam you in the seat when taking off, just driving and passing someone is darn near effortless.
Still closing in on money for a carburetor. Not being rich ain't much fun,lol.
|08-12-2019 10:18 PM|
Little update on things
Got #5 tube dimpled in, couldn't get the motor to rock enough for Eric's suggestion, took steering shaft off and used a hammer, torch, and socket. Took 30 minutes total.
I had noticed a ticking sound on both sides of the engine. I tightened the passenger side valves down another 1/4 turn, no more ticking on that side.
Driver side is done, but I couldn't get the valve cover and gasket back on, having a hair of clearance from the brake booster isn't enough and I couldn't get any luck lining them up to drop the bolt in. So, I have the cheater valve covers with the slope for the booster and wire looms coming. I'll use studs and nuts to hold them down vs trying to drop the Allen head bolts the fabbed covers now.
The engine never acted like a lifter was weak, no chugging, loss of power,etc.
I'm closing in on a spare $1000, next payday I'll hit that. So, new fuel delivery device is in order. AED, prosystems seem to be good builders, any others you guys like that can build one for a specific application? I'm guessing 850 mechanical secondary will be the ticket for me. Or, would a box stock something be good?
|07-28-2019 11:18 AM|
|lmsport||you might be able to take the steering shaft off the box and use a pipe to pry a dent into the header using the frame as the pivot point|
|07-27-2019 10:00 PM|
Yeah, any metal pipe sized good enough to fit will do the job...iron, brass, aluminum doesn't matter as the weight of the engine is doing the bulk of the work. The hammer blow is just the upset force that allows the heavy bulk of the engine to do the actual work of forming the dimple. Much more controlled than the dimple you'd get even if you could strike the pipe direct with the hammer
Like bowing a bent shaft in a press, pressing opposite the direction of the bow, then striking the shaft with a large maul to relieve the stress...when you then relieve the pressure from the press the shaft will be straighter.
|07-27-2019 07:06 PM|
Here’s a video of it idling. Hope the video works.
|07-27-2019 06:36 PM|
Here’s a photo for reference. I can’t feel the ring with a fingernail, but it can’t stay that way.
To do what you suggested, I’d need to take drivers wheel off, slide a pipe through and over upper a arm, then smack from out there. Not a difficult thing to do and that’s what I’ll do, be better than open flame for sure. Will black iron pipe be sufficient, like gas pipe?
I am using repop rubber motor mounts with the locking tab. Only reason I got those was to give myself the best chance of fitting it in. If one gives out, I’ll try the energy polyurethane ones.
Went for a drive again, I couldn’t take it anymore and floored it. Car done a 360 before I had a clue what happened. 0 to wot is instant. One of my friends was with me, he said ”get me the $&@/%€* hell out of this thing”. With a poop eating grin on his face of course. This is better than I could’ve expected, easy to drive and tire demolishing performance, I’m happy overall right now.
|07-27-2019 05:53 PM|
One way to make a clean dimple, if you've got the room to swing a heavy hammer.... take a piece of thick wall tubing that is big enough to fit over the steering shaft, cut a piece a inch or so long, then split it length-wise making 1/2 of a sleeve....lean motor over away from shaft with big lever, slide cut tube halfsleeve over shaft then let motor and header come back tight to the tube halfsleeve and shaft and hold it pinched in place. Smack the opposite side of the shaft with the heavy hammer and this will leave a small curved dimple in the tube. Remove the sleeve. That 1/16" dimple should be all you'll ever need unless the motor mounts are shot.
By chance are you still using rubber motor mounts, and not polyurethane??
Heating and prying is likely to leave an ugly nasty looking clearance point, especially if they are coated. Done with something to make a smooth dimple like I suggest, if possible, will leave even coated headers intact, especially if you pad the sleeve with a layer of electrical tape.
|07-27-2019 04:12 PM|
Couple new developments.
Don’t know where the timing is now, but I turned distributor till it pinged, then backed it down to the last position it didn’t. So I’m calling that good.
My hair of clearance at the steering shaft wasn’t quite enough. #5 header tube rubs steering shaft , shaft has a wedding band rub mark. Turning right I felt something funky in the steering, motor leaning left in the turn is my guess.
How can I dimple this tube in a touch without removing shaft or header? Map gas torch and heavy flat head screwdriver ok? If so, just remove plug wires around area, heat up tube and pry in.
|07-27-2019 03:17 PM|
|07-27-2019 11:20 AM|
|jjjaffo||I personally like K&N. They out flow pretty much any filter out there. Kind of expensive yes, but you won't have to buy another filter for it again.|
|07-26-2019 06:58 PM|
Mine is 10.25:1, however my cam is smaller than yours (225/235, .591"/.601", 112 lsa, 108 icl.) And it was set per the degree wheel. So, I have to be more careful about timing, I wouldn't think ridiculous careful, but careful. I was thinking just turn the distributor till it pings then back off, summer is the perfect time to set it. Hot, humid, nasty air.
Mine got an h pipe, and it smoothed out the sound some. You can tell it isn't stock, but it's not a ground pounder by any means. Definitely some chop to the idle. I figured there wasn't any worthwhile performance gain, but he threw it in no charge, so why not.
I took my dad for a ride earlier, even he said it goes faster, it doesn't feel faster but dang if the speedo does go up faster than before under the same throttle input. But, I'm gonna hold off on the fun, too nervous and too much money to risk trashing it, but I see what you mean tony.
Oh, I have a 3" air cleaner now, from the bottom of the exposed stud to the top is 1" and a thread, is a 3.5" tall filter exactly 1/2" taller, if so, I can fit one no problem. Certainly wouldn't hurt, any particular company's filter to go with?
|07-26-2019 06:34 PM|
Mine is at 18 to 38 advanced. I thought my old fan was quiet but with the electric I can now, when it's real hot coming off the highway and heading home up a steep hill, I hear a little pinging. Good places to listen for it is along side of concrete barriers and even sometimes along side of a guardrail. I'll back mine off 2į, that should take care of it. You might have more compression than me so that of course changes things.
|07-26-2019 06:26 PM|
I had an X pipe on mine and changed it to two pipes straight back. Sounded like crap with the X pipe and it sure didn't make a difference performance wise.
|07-26-2019 06:20 PM|
Sounds about like what I did when I did the bottom end. That procedure lasted for about a mile then went WOT and *drive it like I stole it*. I figure what they do to break in new cars isn't much different. Gets driven less than a mile then it's at a dealer and someone takes it out for a test drive and has to see just what it's got. And they go 10,000 miles before the FIRST oil change.
|07-26-2019 03:42 PM|
|Dfish1247||Well, I didn’t want to ping on the way there. I couldn’t hear it if it did. I’ll raise it up tomorrow now that I can without blasting the neighborhood into volume oblivion.|
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