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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-07-2020 05:24 PM
idrivejunk Thats going to be good as new.
04-07-2020 04:51 PM
123pugsy Sweet patch John. I know what it's like trying to get metal to cooperate....


The lack of rust under there is justified as it appears your screwdriver hogged it all...
04-07-2020 04:15 PM
John long At this point I drilled holes at each corner of the tabs that hold the tack strip and cut the flange leaving the tabs for trimming.



After fitting it to the header, I cut out the second patch forming it to fit and again scribed the header and cut it out.





Once these pieces are welded, I will turn the header over, cut out the rusty part of the flange on the upper (top) part of the header and replace it.

Life is good.

John

Just as a reminder. This is what this corner looked like 2 weeks ago.

04-07-2020 03:55 PM
John long If you guys will bare with me, I am going to post this repair in quite a bit of detail. This is such a classic repair, any one who has an old Chevy with rusted out window channels will be able to relate to this.

The only special tools used were my shrinker/stretcher jaws and the tipping dies on my bead roller.

I posted my tape pattern the other day. The first thing I did today was remove it and snip the flanges with a pair of scissors so it would lay flat. I also made a small pattern for the remaining piece.



You can see on this piece, I gently made punch marks along the bend lines every 3/4 inch or so. I did it this way so I could see my lines on both sides of the patch.



Alternating running the patch through the bead roller with tipping dies and the shrinker/stretcher dies yielded the patch. I will admit, this was a couple of hours work. It is tedious getting the piece where you want it.



Next I opened the header up after scribing a line from my patch. To my amazement, the inside of the header bow has never been painted. Not even from the factory. The fact that there is still unpainted silver metal in there is amazing!



I will finish up with a second post.

John
04-06-2020 10:42 AM
Too Many Projects Yupper, no place to go, may as well keep building.
Once you get the irons all done and mounted, you can make alignment pins out of grade bolts, for getting the hydraulics all working and bled..
04-06-2020 08:07 AM
John long The truth is there is no place to take it this spring. Steve is finishing up the A/C. It seems like getting it ready for a top only makes sense.

The chrome is in Nashville at the closed down plater. The top and seals can go on after the top irons are painted and together on the car. I think I will go ahead and order the hydraulics this week.

John
04-06-2020 07:24 AM
Too Many Projects
Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
I thought you were going to just make a boot and do the season.
I seem to remember that as the goal, but after having driven it, I'll bet he has that desire to get it further along.
04-06-2020 06:16 AM
idrivejunk I thought you were going to just make a boot and do the season.
04-06-2020 04:24 AM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
Centerline keeps a roll of 1/4" 3M trim tape on hand all the time. I've used it to hold a lot of things in place. I've also used it as setting tape for glass channels, but that's tricky because it's sticky and there's my ditty...
That would hold the tack strip and no waiting for the urethane to cure.

You buy the cotton canvas for the top yet ?? What are you waiting for...

No top, no rubber seals, no hydraulics, no chrome alignment pins.......Rusty top irons. I'm just in poor shape all the way around. The rust I can fix. The rest takes money.

Poor pitiful me.....

John
04-05-2020 08:44 PM
Too Many Projects Centerline keeps a roll of 1/4" 3M trim tape on hand all the time. I've used it to hold a lot of things in place. I've also used it as setting tape for glass channels, but that's tricky because it's sticky and there's my ditty...
That would hold the tack strip and no waiting for the urethane to cure.

You buy the cotton canvas for the top yet ?? What are you waiting for...
04-05-2020 06:04 PM
John long A couple of good things to report today.

I had some replies on the SPI forum from guys who were familiar with using windshield urethane for bedding the tack strips. As a matter of fact, one of the fellows pointed me to Jeff Lilly's web site and he had a tutorial on convertible tops where he specifically recommended 3M 08690 urethane for that purpose.

I also laid out a tape pattern for the front bow repair. It demonstrates the planned repair coming up.

John

04-04-2020 09:17 PM
idrivejunk Ha, I had some 3M 6385 at arm's reach. I drive plastic junk so its handy.

I will say that not unlike epoxy primer, as time goes by the bond gets stronger to a point. Meaning you can sometimes peel it if you make a mistake right then but after some temp cycles and mashing-down-ons, its permanent. But since it is thin foam is easily sliced apart with a sharp blade, like cutting out bedded glass. Cleanup sucks either way, tape or glue, but tape is consistent and quite forgiving about flex. The tape will soften when hot outside but if the pieces fit well like moldings do, no sweat. It is tough and there are several types and widths.
04-04-2020 09:06 PM
idrivejunk It is one of those "Once you have some on hand, you'll find a million uses for it." items.
04-04-2020 08:01 PM
John long Duh! Just looked up attachment tape! That is an interesting thought.

John
04-04-2020 07:58 PM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Oh. If it is plastic (must have seen it somewhere before) and an adhesive is preferred I vote windshield urethane. With what tabs can be had.

Of course, lets not overlook the obvious... attachment tape. Probably work slick as a whistle. That stuff loves anything smooth and can give just a little.
Now you are over my head. What is attachment tape?

John
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